Hi,

Whats the procedure for getting the rear wheel bearings out on a Rev 3.

Thanks,

Cheers,

Darlo

If you do a search on here or the Mechanical bit, you'll probably find this has been done before...BUT..a bit of info for you.

Unlike most road bikes (except Ducati I believe)..the spacer between the two wheel bearings (on the rear wheel this is...NOT the front)...does not have any play in it.

Meaning it is tight up against the bearings, so it is very difficult to get BEHIND the bearings with a punch, to knock them out.

The first time I did mine, I ended up destroying one bearing..(cutting etc.) untill it came out, and then obviously you can get behind the other one to knock it out.

SOmeone last time suggested that whilst you do it, cut a little channel/gap/V, in the spacer, so that the next time, you do it, you CAN get behind the bearing.

Sorry if this is confusing...other than the above, its the same as any other wheel bearing change. I'll see if I've got any pics to help explain myself.

Good luck

Hopefully, on this pic, you can see where the spacer, has a step in it, which fits snugly up into/against the bearing........THIS is why its so difficult to get BEHIND the bearing to tap it out.

And hopefully THIS pic, will help you to see how the spacer connects/fits with the bearingS!!!

It helps a lot of you put the new bearings in the freezer for a couple of hours before starting the job and once you've got the old bearings and spacer out, stuff a rag in the spindle hole and soak it with boiling water until the hub is good and hot. This makes the installation of the new bearings much easier.

I'm afraid I've got to disagree with Stu...

There's no need to chop up your old bearings! Once you remove the outer 2 spacers (my tip if they are seized is to apply mole grip or similar to the outer spacer and pick up the wheel in the horizontal plane, so it is dangling by the outer spacer and as the song goes "wiggle it", until the wheel drops), then all you need do is find a "socket" from a socket wrench set that fills the inner diameter of the bearings. There is a lip that protrudes from the inner spacer, just wack the socket and the bearing on the other side and the spacer, will be pushed out. It's then a simple matter to knock out the remaining bearing.

Although i didn't try the bearings in the freezer technique, makes sense, although my replacements went in without too much "encouragement" from tool No. 1. I will try that next time.

Aaaarrrrrggggghhhhhh....bloody hell...........aaarrrrggghhhhh......aaaarrrrggghhhhhh....OH MAN!!!!!!!!!!...why didnt I think of that.

I must have lost pounds in sweat..did it outside in about 33 degrees last time, swore lots, and spent millions in therapy to get over the trauma.

Oh man........I am SUCH a doughnut.

Apologies to everyone, about my stupid post...

Tordi...when I next do the rear bearings I will always remember you!!

You are my hero..I just wish I'd thought of it myself.

DOH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Many many thanks

Thanks Tordi,

Just as you said and I had both rear and front wheel bearings out in just a few minutes. Great.

Cheers,

Darlo

what year is that hub?

my 2000 is not at all like that.

mine pop right out with a small bearing puller

and some heat

i also give the the entire thing a light coat of grease to cut down on corrosion

Its an 02 Rev3 250....so I guess the wheel was probably made in 01??

OK...now I've gotta disagree with you TOrdi!!!!!!!!!

Having thought that all my xmas' had come at once on reading your post, I then (last week) tried your advice.

All that happened to me, is that on filling the inner of the bearing with a socket and tapping....well...basically it just flatened/damaged the lip on the inner spacer...which didnt go too bad thankfully, because it would be troublesome for the axle to run through it.

SO...I went back to the old method, and THIS time,

cut a small hole in one end of the inner spacer, so on the next go, I can get a punch behind it

If it works for you thats great, because in principal I loved your idea...

maybe you can tell me if you think I did something wrong....or maybe my inner spacer was a special soft one for the extra special riders

I did mine and had a right going on, i also thought it would be easy when I heard Tordi's advice, but my spacer is also soft, I ended up:

>taking off the dust seal and trashing the race,

>pulling out the middle of the bearing, the balls and the spacer,

>pulling out the opposite side bearing with a bearing puller,

>and sitting for a long time looking at the outer ring of the bearing which was now stuck in my wheel with no lip to get a hold of and decided that I was absolutely shafted.

Luckily a guy named 'Fix It' arrived at that very moment and said that he would weld a ring around the inside of the metal ring so that the ring would contract and fall out. This worked amazingly with no damage to the hub, he is evidently very good at welding.

I hope this makes you realise Stu that you had it easy when you changed your bearings, and I now know that when the bearings need changing, it is time to change the bike!

I hope this makes you realise Stu that you had it easy when you changed your bearings, and I now know that when the bearings need changing, it is time to change the bike!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Or just take it to the shop and give the problem to those with the expertise, the time and the right equipment!!! Don't know about you guys, but my 'spare' time is somewhat precious, and I'd rather spend it drinking/sleeping/eating/watching sport* (*delete as appropriate) than f@nnying about beating the living daylights out of me wheel 'ub. I'm definately a 'couch-mechanic' (and anyone who went on the Dougie Masterclass this year and saw the state of my bike will testify to THAT!!!).

Cheers

Chris Mo.

Very good kinky boots (I'm still wondering how you got that name!!)...and in alot of ways, I agree with you...but out here in HK there's not much choice...well ..I guess there is, but the bike shops a long way from the trials place..anyway...I might just go to the shop next time too!!!