bossmonkeyman Posted March 5, 2014 Report Share Posted March 5, 2014 Hi there new to the forum just on net looking for some help really. I recently purchased an old 98 gas gas tx 250 which after reading around an watching some videos. it seems to be pointing me to 5w 30 normal motor oil on a 90's model gas gas non synthetic. Could anyone point me in the right direction? whats best to buy an where from. By saying any 5w 30 motor oil does this mean like some normal car oil like Castrol gtx. I read about putoline light gear oil but im sure it says its synthetic but in the video it says dnt use synthetic. The bike currently I'm sure its called clutch drag where the bike is pulling slightly with clutch lever in.if it wasn't running an I pull clutch in bike is still in gear an doesn't free wheel the video recommends 5 30 to stop this. sorry if I sound thick but feel better to be safe than sorry. many thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thats_a_five Posted March 6, 2014 Report Share Posted March 6, 2014 Many people use ATF in the old gassers. Check the oil for contamination by coolant from a failed water pump seal. Coolant in the oil will look like a milk shake and cause a lot of clutch drag. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lineaway Posted March 6, 2014 Report Share Posted March 6, 2014 If you are inclined, I would pull the clutch plates out for inspection. The reason they say not to use synthetics is the friction material would come off the plate. Gas Gas blamed it on the oil. Funny thing is the same people recommended Moble one for years before this warning came out. Putoline or Maxima light gear oil would work fine. I would just make sure you do not have bad plates. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thats_a_five Posted March 6, 2014 Report Share Posted March 6, 2014 ...the friction material would come off the plate. .. Many people here in the USA use automatic transmission fluid (ATF) in the older Gassers. I did and found that when the clutch began to drag it was time to change the ATF. Good news is ATF is pretty cheap. I mentioned above, that a failed water pump seal will allow coolant into the oil. This makes the clutch drag terribly. Check the fluid, if it is milky, there is water in it. There is a kit available which includes the seal and a replacement water pump shaft (and I think the bearing). Years ago when I bought my used '94 JT25, the clutch was very much like a light switch: on or off. People would tell me "just slip the clutch" and I would try my best but I never could make it slip. After bleeding the hydraulics, changing the oil and such, I eventually disassembled the clutch and what Lineaway described is exactly what I found: the friction plates were detached from the metal plates. I think it was this way when I bought it but I did not know about this and thought it was normal. I have no idea what oil the previous owners had used. I put in a new set of plates with the friction material well attached and it transformed the bike. It was now possible to slip the clutch! I rode that clutch for several years with no more problems other than dirty oil causing a little drag. Then it was time to improve the operator. That process is ongoing. Slowly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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