November 16, 201411 yr Author I'm going to redo the seals,is the wear sleeve that goes into the seal supposed to be free floating ,what alternative carbs are there,I'm a bit apprehensive in spending out on a new carb without knowing it's definitely that cheers andy
November 16, 201411 yr Andy I guess you are referring to the drive side, unless the new seals are in wrong ( spring not in to crank 1 seal/1 out to primary, O ring not in place), the sleeve floats until drive is tight. Hope you can borrow a carb to try,not saying buy. Good luck
November 18, 201411 yr Author Sorry about this I asked this before but I'm still unsure,the sleeve that goes into the seals ok but there is a 4mm shoulder on the drive shaft,which in the Haynes manual looks the same,but this means when running the sleeve will move in and out,should there be a 4mm washer spacer between the top hat sleeve and the back of the drive cog\flywheel weight!I've got it all apart at the moment to redo the seals!I don't see the reason for the O rings if their not clamped in place,in motion have given me a mikuni to try,I can return it if it's not the carb cheers andy
November 18, 201411 yr Andy, I guess there must something I cant understand (not new for me). The sleeve has a counter bore in one end to locate the o ring against the crank main bearing to complete the sealing process. It must be in place. The drive wheel uses the sleeve to locate for alignment to the clutch and is torqued tight. The sleeve cannot float! The drive wheel should have a counter bore to accommodate the 4 mm step. After you get the thing back together it needs to run long enough to burn the excess oil from the muffler per Patricks above post. Larry Edited November 18, 201411 yr by lbhbul
November 18, 201411 yr Author If you have the Haynes manual it shows the step 11.9 picture.either there's a washer missing between the top hat sleeve and cog or there is something's not right because the back side of the cog is flat and will only tighten against the shoulder of the shaft cheers andy
November 18, 201411 yr Andy Was editing my post as you were on line. If your drive wheel has no c/bore, you may have a short top hat & either come up with a longer sleeve or something, not that familiar with 213, but the alignment of the chain is critical. Is this a motoplat with points? Larry
November 18, 201411 yr Author It's a motoplat electronica,I've had it checked,guess I'll have to make up a spacing washer,I've already discovered bits missing ie,primery chain tensioner so I'll check the alignment,in motion told me that the sleeve is the correct one 28.5mm but sprocket has no counterbore looks like there is an O ring both ends of the top hat cheers andy
November 18, 201411 yr Andy That washer seems to be the answer?? o ring goes against main, the alignment is the main concern I have,perhaps when you get sealed up carb will not be the issue. Good luck,keep us informed Larry
November 19, 201411 yr Hi Jap350. The M 213 Alpina`s did have a Motoplat points ignition on them from new so it looks like someone has changed yours. Now I understand what you meant when you said you were lining up the holes. What primary flywheel is on yours?. It should have a double weight on yours with the sprocket in the middle. If it does not then someone has changed that as well. Also does it has a single row primary chain on it? The 213 Alpina engines and gearboxes are very similar to the Sherpa`s. The gear ratios, ignition and the stroke were the only changes.
November 19, 201411 yr Bullylover, Glad you are helping Andy, it would seem there have been several changes from new. I understand the change to ignition, as I don't believe much is available for the original. Cant grasp the primary dilemma. Larry
November 20, 201411 yr Author I've seen the light with the primary issue,it would seem that the flywheel has been changed at some time,and one from another model has been put on ,with the single outside weight,after trawling the net for pictures ,it would seem that it as said before ,should have a 4mm counterbore to tighten the sleeve up but this hasn't ,so the sleeve has been floating,I've fitted the new seals and weighting for some small bits from in motion to put it back together,mikuni is fitted,proof will be in the pudding as to say,tomorrow I should have it back together ,I'll let you know how I get on cheers Andy
November 20, 201411 yr Author Sorry forgot to say its got the duplex chain,and I've fitted the Barrett ? Clutch plates cheers again andy
November 20, 201411 yr Andy, Before reassembly. do check thee thickness of the steel clutch pack, try to duplicate thickness with Barnetts. Usually only 4 Barnett plates can be used, be sure to start in basket with earless plate, if you have nuts securing the springs it is a lot simpler than a pin clutch test for release prior to buttoning up . Larry
November 21, 201411 yr Hi Andy. By the sounds of that you might have either a Pursang clutch and primary drive or a Frontera one. These did have a small weight on the front sprocket and a double row primary chain. They also often did not run a primary chain tensioner as these on the high revs sometimes self destructed. The weight on these is a lot smaller than the M 212`s and especially the M 213`s which are a few kilos. The 213 are a nut setup on the clutches. Graham.
November 21, 201411 yr Andy I would think with this primary,the top hat would be 32/33 mm to be out past the shoulder, makes one wonder about the clutch spacer? Alignment of chain will tell,good about nut clutch,thanks, Graham. Larry
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