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315 Mystery Doesn't Start Problem


caravan_monster
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Went up the practice ground at the weekend. Bike starts second or third kick with choke, ticks over and runs fine, as usual. Rode around for an hour or so then came back to the van to get a drink and turned the bike off. Sat around for ten minutes or so then went to start the bike again and it would not start, dead as a a dodo, not a cough or splutter. Lots of kicking, trying with choke on / off, laid it down to check for fuel coming out of the overflow (which it did), no luck, so I packed up and went home.

Got home, washed the bike, and it started second or third kick with choke, as per usual. Stopped and started the engine several times no problems. Stops and starts fine today as well.

I can only imagine it is either electrical or fuel. Fuel was fresh out the pump, with fully synthetic at 70:1. The wiring loom is tidy with japanese connectors, no obvious damaged wires or connectors and it puts out a strong spark at the plug. Are any of the electrical components known to fail with age and wear ?

The bike is a 2000 315R. It does have non standard carbon fibre reeds and a PWK carb which have not caused reliabilty problems to my knowledge.

Any thoughts on what to check ? Got to be a dead cert next time it won't start will be in the middle of a trial :lol:

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Agree with #3, I was in middle of writing when he posted. Intermittent or poor hot starting can be a sign stator source coil or HT coil is beginning to fail. Resistance readings can be a clue but are not always decisive. An check with an automotive oscilloscope is the only way to really check. You can get a good spark at the plug out of the cylinder but it may not be sparking when under compression.

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Thanks all for the quick replies !

I'm going to get it hot to see if that replicates the problem. I asked a good time served bike mechanic about it, and he reckoned coils were a strong possibility. Are cheaper multimeters generally fit for home / diy use ? I should really have bought one years ago.

I can do the fix for the fuel tap with a little bolt, so that a normal person without freak show fingers can operate it. I've only ever turned it off when removing the tank and agree it would be good practice to switch the tap off when not in use. I'll treat it to an inline fuel filter for the PWK carb and a new plug as well.

Would an auto electrician likely have an appropriate oscilloscope if I can't pinpoint the problem myself ?

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