December 27, 20169 yr i have gone through much the same bad starting and running ,may i suggest you replace the wiring loom they are not that much, As you have seen the wires corrode bad and rot away , A new loom may save a lot of time as you start chasing faults through the loom
January 4, 20179 yr Author Having trouble getting hold of a capacitor.. From the manual it's 10000uF but does anyone know the voltage? I can get 16v ones which is the closest I can get to the 12v output of the bike or should it be higher? Edited January 4, 20179 yr by thall1 Spelling
January 4, 20179 yr Hi From this webshop http://www.cmsnl.com/products/unit-assy-condenser_31700nn4003/ you can buy the requested 10 uF condenser for your Honda Montesa 4RT. Regards Honda Freak Edited January 4, 20179 yr by honda_freak
January 4, 20179 yr 7 hours ago, thall1 said: Having trouble getting hold of a capacitor.. From the manual it's 10000uF but does anyone know the voltage? I can get 16v ones which is the closest I can get to the 12v output of the bike or should it be higher? Try Kestrel Honda Coventry ask for Scott on the parts desk, give him the part number 31700 NN4 003 That's unless you brought the one sold on ebay today
January 9, 20179 yr Author Hi all....it now runs!!...as I said earlier, I replaced the wires from the capacitor(condenser as Honda call it) until I found clean copper. The wires from the capacitor to the connector were also corroded - both positive & negative were black, so I was looking to get a new 'light weight' capacitor from H&D racing but they were out of stock. So I stripped the rubberised coating off the original to see if I could find a voltage rating & then get something suitable from RSonline - (a 16v 10000uF one is only £7!) but nothing found. Once it was back to a bare Ali can capacitor (and half the size & weight of it before I stripped it) I unsoldered the wires from the spade connectors and tested it again...all test repeated ok so I soldered it directly into the bike loom....just finished building the bike back up and after a few kicks it burst into life!!......left it running for the fan to cut in and it started first kick again after !!!...i'll try it again tomorrow but hopefully its now all sorted...thanks to all for you input!
January 10, 20179 yr Author just a quick update.....bike still starts and now it starts with the 4RT push rather than a 2-stroke kick. Also, the bike used to 'cough' every now and again but as yet it hasn't done it, also the revs stay steady when the fan cuts in, it used to drop revs then recover, but no more!
January 13, 20179 yr Author spoke to soon....its dead again!! same as before....will try a new capacitor first then a regulator
January 13, 20179 yr Is it possible that the injector is picking up a signal from a different source i.e. is there a short in the wiring loom?
January 13, 20179 yr Author couldn't find anything wrong with the loom when I stripped it other than black corrosion on the wires leading to and on the capacitor... the corroded wire was replaced and the old capacitor was reused but once it had been striped of its wires back to the capacitor spades... my thought at the moment is the capacitor has been damaged internally by the corrosion. Before the bike packed in the first time it did exactly the same, ran for a few times then stopped....I can only think that by playing with the capacitor, discharging and recharging while being tested re-lifed it for a while?...As I said in earlier posts, the engine was stripped to rule out mechanical issues, this was done after the Fuel pump, ecu/throttle body and injector was fitted another bike to try out. This second bike started first time with my bits fitted....my bike is sparking so the stator/pickup and coil are all working.....i'll try a new capacitor and go from there....
January 15, 20179 yr Author anyone know of how to fully check out the regulator? There is a resistance check in the manual and that checks out ok but just wondering if there is more that can be done?...Honda Freak - did I read somewhere on this site that you had a problem bike that you fixed by changing the regulator? I have gone back through the site but cant find it....
January 15, 20179 yr Hello Thall1 The resistance control you are referring to in the workshop manual is the resistance of the charging coil from the flywheel - there is no test of the rectifier / regulator in the workshop manual. The file I uploaded here describes how to test the diodes inside the rectifier, so if you know how to use a digital multimeter should be an easy task to accomplish. You must remember to push a little on the terminal pin, when making this test, or you can get a false reading. I hope you will solve this problem or at least get some answers on what to do next ! DIODE TEST.pdf Regards Honda_freak Edited January 17, 20179 yr by honda_freak Wrong spelling
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