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jonnyc21

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About jonnyc21

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    Trials Ninja

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  • Bike
    Montesa 300RR

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    Boise
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    Male

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  1. As lineawy indicated adjusting the idle is an easy check and worth a quick try. As above check spark, if you have that then the next in my mind is compression because its an easy check and then fuel. However with what you indicated I would expect it to be spark or fuel as compression usually would show up as early starting or other hard running issues first before just not starting. My 2 cents on how I would look into it... If you do not have spark I would try disconnecting the kill switch and checking spark again, if still no spark start checking the wires and see where you might have a loose wire or wet connectors from the muddy conditions. If you have a gauge to check compression I would do that next just because its quick and easy. Now If you have spark I would use a 12 v battery to check the fuel pump, if that works then continue down the line to see if you have fuel coming out of the injector. If you hit a wall with all of the above let us know.
  2. As jimmyl indicated its under the black cover and add a shim against the casting.
  3. One possible cause could be that the throttle position sensor thinks your going past 100%. Try using some superglue to fix a thin washer or something to the stop to see if it will stop doing that, if so its a position sensor issue. Another possible cause might be that your t-bag filter is plugged, though that seems a bit less likely based on what you indicate is happening.
  4. jonnyc21

    4RT tilt switch

    You are correct that to bypass the tilt switch its the outside two wires that need to be joined. Unless your having an issue with the tilt switch I wouldn't bypass it as I have had my bike on top of me once where the lanyard did not disconnect and having the tilt switch was helpful. (Though this is a rare situation) If you expect to ride in conditions where you will become separated from the bike a lot I would fit a lanyard in place of the manual kill switch as the tilt switch can take a few seconds to kick in where the lanyard will stop the engine much quicker. Good luck and I hope you enjoy the bike!
  5. Yes, both rebound and compression are slower at the default settings on the early 4RT's in comparison to newer bikes so makes the bike feel slow and heavy by comparison as well as requiring more effort to hop them. Turning the settings out closer to the softest side of things helps but for me it was still a bit to slow when the weather turned cold so I had the fluid in mine swapped for 2.5 rather than the sock 5 to speed things up. Found that held my settings closer to the center of the adjustment range and helps in cold weather as I still have some range adjustment to speed things up when needed.
  6. The 3 restrictors to my understanding was because of road legal requirements is some countries, wasn't it? Having a few fellow riders with 05's in the past (one a good friend of mine) I don't recall the restrictions on any of there bikes or them talking about removing them. Some other things than have not already been noted, that I am aware of, between the 05 and the 06+ was a change in the decompression system for easier starting of the bike. Also where the 09 had a better silencer my 07 its still a noticeable amount quieter than my friends 05 for reference. Also, my friends 05 is still not hard to start but my 07 is easier and my 17 300RR is about the same as my 07. The most apparent difference between my friends 05 and my 07 and my 2017 is the suspension is a lot better on the 17. A couple years before I got my 17 I had my 07's suspension re-worked so its a lot more like the 17 because it was a bit slow in my opinion and that made the bike feel a bit heavy but I admit I am picky. As for a good condition low usage 05 4RT for a decent price, I would jump on it if I was in the market for a used bike. My 2 cents.
  7. jonnyc21

    4rt Swingarm

    I looked at a few part numbers but they only seem to have it as an assembly and not as a single part so hard to say for sure if the swingarm its self is actually different. Example: 2005-2007 use 52100-NN4-000 2014-2015 uses 52100-NN4-J20 (black) or 52100-NN4-J10 (polished) 2017-2018 uses 52100-NN4-J20
  8. Is a lot more fun when it isn't just clean or 5 sections.
  9. Read an article once all about Bou and Fugi's bikes but couldn't find that one. This is at least an official link to Honda Racing so shows that 4 gears is defiantly the case and if I remember correctly 314CC. https://trial.hondaracingcorporation.com/machine/
  10. Never had mine fully out of the bike or I probably would have done that just out of curiosity. Hopefully someone has and is willing to post it up here.
  11. I agree with ride them as see. Though I am a 4RT fan and unless its been abused I would side that way. Also worth note is that, unless I am remembering wrong, the Beta Rev3's do not have linkage and have a PDS like shock. This isn't bad but I find I really don't gel with them as well as the newer Evo's and other bikes with linkage by comparison.
  12. I have never felt my 4RT lacks grip or has any big issues turning and really don't have any issue with the slight weight difference... But then again you ride a Beta so turning wouldn't be as good on a 4RT by comparison, a 2T rider like yourself wouldn't think it grips as well because a 4T bike grip is different because of the way the power comes on, and yes 6 to 8 lbs more is quite a bit when talking trials bikes but hay I don't ride at the top level so I guess I can loose some lbs myself to make up for the difference. (Also, trying to figure how how 8lbs is a ton?) LOL
  13. Not sure if I am correct but as its listed as a 4 Ride part by S3 this would seem like its setup for a bike that has the road kit installed to help with starting in the lean condition that is created by the emissions components. If this is the case I don't see it as being something that would help a 300RR. But then again, maybe I am missing something?
  14. I use the Elf 740 HTX but have had decent experience with Maxima's MTL 75, though if I was in Europe I would consider trying GRO's extra light gear oil. Maxima is a bit thicker than the Elf but not a lot and is great once the bike is warmed up and dose give the clutch a touch more of a progressive feel. (Note: it took two oil changes to really feel the full difference in the oils.) Edit: Clarified the Maxima context in the thicker comment.
  15. There is only 2 current production trials bikes that have E-Start and both of them still have the kick starter on them as well as the battery.
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