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jonnyc21

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About jonnyc21

  • Rank
    Trials Ninja

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  • Bike
    Montesa 300RR

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  • Location
    Boise
  • Gender
    Male

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  1. I would rather go back to the old fender than use the pointed one. Better coverage in the mud than the 2015 shape. I do like the look better than the old one, just a function over form kind of guy myself.
  2. I second the Up and Over Trials pants. They might be a little more to get outside of the US but might be worth it if your really wanting something that isn't skin tight. http://www.upandovertrials.com/pants
  3. If you can't get it sorted with a reeming tool setup to you might check Banyeres. Might be worth considering: https://jbanyeres.com/en/suspension/2440-suspension-botella-original-showa-conjunto-derecha-izquierda.html?search_query=showa&results=83 And the other option might be a full set: https://jbanyeres.com/en/montesa/471-horquilla-delantera-showa-trial-modelo-2009-2012-39-mm.html?search_query=showa&results=83
  4. I am an adult and we have a 07 Gas Gas 125 my wife started on and is now used by my daughter... As such I checked out a couple 125's for comparison and the only negative I found on any was the gearbox/shifting on the Gas Gas 125. There compact gearbox is light but shifting from 4th to 5th and back down is harsh. Other than that all the others I have tried are great. (FYI: I haven't been on a TRS 125 or Vertigo 125)
  5. For the clubman rider I think the side-valve would work very well, however the trouble is that it would never perform well enough at the high RPM's for the pro riders, as such I don't see them ever making them... how do you promote a bike that no top rider rides and sell enough of them in such a small market to be worth the $? At least that is what I see.
  6. I really am not sure what or how they would have done it but I hear it isn't completely uncommon, though I wouldn't expect a dealer to make that mistake.
  7. The last time I heard someone talking about issues with a brand new 4RT (same engine) they had just completed the first oil service and ended up putting the oil filter in backwards. I doubt that is your issue but its about the only thing I can think of. You could double check cam chain tensioner isn't having an issue as it can cause taping, and as you indicated valve clearance. Not sure past that. good luck.
  8. We got into trials as a family and the first bike we got was the Wife's, we picked up a 125 and we both would use it at first tell we knew for sure we liked it before getting me a bike. I found that even at 185 lbs with my wife at around 135 the 125 was fine for me, I got to learn all the early stuff and even 7 years later being 205 I can still get myself into all kinds of trouble with her 125. Unless your planning to go strait into long hill climes it wouldn't be an issue at all for you and I am 100% confident that you wife will really appreciate the more docile 125 even over a Beta 200. On that note, if you wife is also athletic like you are I would say a 200 would likely be a better first bike for you considering you would probably like the bit of extra power it will have over the 125's but really having been on both it isn't as big of a difference at your size than for someone like me at 205. Good luck making the call but as long as you go 125 or 200 you will probably do well.
  9. I know they are not close but Mandy or Randy Lewis at https://lewisportusa.com/ might know of someone down in SoCal that could help.
  10. I run stock on my 300RR and use the clutch more, however I have tried a 42, 43 and 44 rear and found that after a bit of adjustment time I liked the 43 better than the 42 or 44 over all. If I was going to change the rear and only had a 42 or 44 to pick from I would go 44 so that 2nd was more usable and I had an extra slow 1st for really tight section work. In the end I doubt I will ever use anything but stock gearing but every once in a bit I consider running a 43 or 44 for a year to see how things would end up working out... who knows maybe I will at some point... good luck.
  11. jonnyc21

    4rt engine work

    Yes, the HTX is a bit expensive. I know a few people that have recently changed to the "NILS CLUTCH TRIAL" oil and are having great luck with it. The specs of that oil are very close to the same as the ELF oil so I am intending to give it a go myself. I don't know the cost difference but it might be worth checking into? Good luck on the Specs for comparison. ELF 40°C 21.4 100°C 7.0 NILS 40°C 24.7 100°C 7.5 Also, take this as you will, I change my ELF oil every 2 oil changes (30 hrs) and can't tell a difference in performance on the clutch. I once went to 65 hours on my 07 4RT so I could see where the tipping over point on clutch feel was and found that it only started to feel a bit off at the 60 hour mark and even then only just. I keep it at the 30 hours on my 300 RR but after then 65 hour test I wouldn't have a big issue going over a bit if needed. Edit: looking like it might be as much as about half the price here in the US... defiantly worth a go for that in my mind.
  12. I wouldn't bother with that, like jimmyl I have had my cover off more than once without issue. Just to be sure I just blead the system after words, lets me swap out the old fluid as well as to make sure there isn't any unexpected issues. Works a treat.
  13. jonnyc21

    4rt engine work

    I would check the timing chain tensioner, that's the most common cause of small knock on the 4RT's if I recall correctly. As for maintenance on my 07 4RT, I haven't ever needed to change anything on it but oil/filter changes, clean the air filter (replaced a couple because of use). I do swap the plug out every year or two but probably could get away longer change cycles.
  14. Didn't know about the Amal myself, that is good information. Seeing that my friends Beta 300 4T I got to ride was softer off the bottom than my Montesa 300 but stronger pull than my Montes 250 I would expect it to be the same or better as a 260 down low with a slow throttle option like that.
  15. Other than playing with bar and lever setup to suit your preference about the only other 2 things to consider might be to swap out for the throttle with the fast (white) throttle tube and tweak/adjust the suspension for your preference as well. Really the best thing you can do is to ride it a lot so you can adjust to the difference in timing of the engine and feel of the new bike and used to the different engine starting procedure. One other recommendation is to get yourself an hour/tachometer meter so you can set and keep the tickover/RPM's set correctly as the 4RT's need a higher than normal setting to be easy to start. Oh and one last thing, if the bike isn't starting easy after stalling it remember to give it full throttle and kick it twice then 0 throttle and one smooth kick should do it. (the full throttle bit tells the ECU to reset)
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