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  1. One option might be to double up on the base gasket... it will change the port timing a touch as well though. On that note, I would not expect a huge difference over all but even then I wouldn't really be able to say how much.
  2. Have you switched fuel type? I haven't had a problem with running different octane levels in my 17 Cota 300RR but if your running the low stuff try higher octane or the other way around? I don't really expect this to be the issue but at least something to consider?
  3. Love my Airoh TRR as well, great helmet! Glad you like it and I admit I think your bike choice is excellent!
  4. VP fuel is a racing fuel so will have no ethanol in it and is often a higher octane level. Most of the people I know that get VP are after the no ethanol because they don't have a non-ethanol option at a standard pump station. Some feel there bikes run better on the VP. Most of the people I know that like the VP ride 2T bikes, and a few people I know have tried it in their 4RT's and had issues. Also, some will mix standard octane non-ethanal with the VP and really like that. In the end it can make a difference depending on bike, conditions, modifications, etc. and preference in most cases.
  5. It can actually be pulled right from the back of the light and then you can tuck the wire under the tank or behind the new number board without having to go all the way back to the next connector. I don't 'remember exactly how its held on off the top of my head but it has a round white ceramic type connector if I recall correctly. (for heat control)
  6. I got an hour meter with tachometer integrated. No affiliation just liked the mount and meter. Meter: https://www.hardlineproducts.com/product/hourtach-meter/ Mount: https://www.hardlineproducts.com/product/hour-meter-instrument-style-mount/
  7. jonnyc21

    300rr mods

    Seeing your post, just not pictures. Hope you have some good ones to post up.
  8. If its just about getting a number board and your okay with the wires still being there I would just unplug the bulb, pull the headlight, unbolt the tank and feed the wire back under the tank and zip tie it out of the way then put the tank back on and maybe even cover up the plug end and then put the number board on the forks. If you want to pull the wires all the way out I haven't gone that far into mine and don't have the time to fully investigate, sorry and good luck.
  9. jonnyc21

    349 prices

    Can't say for sure the value but running is a good start. In good condition I remember seeing one that got picked up in the US for something like ~3k USD not to long ago but in the UK/EU I wouldn't know. Sorry and good luck.
  10. That is interesting, I will have to look into this a bit to learn more. Thanks.
  11. if you have already update the idle to ~1800, then I would check valve clearance as that would be my first thought. I will start with that and see if that sorts it out. My 2 cents at least. Other simple things to consider: (good to do anyway) Always worth doing some standard maintenance like flush and replace the coolant to be sure heat isn't causing some of the issues, not common but have had a friend boiling his fuel and fresh fluid sorted it for him. Double check the fuel pump filter isn't gummed up (not likely the primary issue, but combined with heat maybe a contributor?)
  12. Where I haven't had the issue your talking about I also have been wondering the same, mostly so I could share it with our club so we could consider if we could use something like that.
  13. Where are you in the world? Example: I am in the US and I have insurance for my off road bikes (trials bikes) from Progressive but I have no clue if they would cover anything outside of the US.
  14. Ya, been a few to long, I forgot I had to rattle gun the bolt. Sorry about that Cookiemonster
  15. Because it was just the pressure plate bolts I was able to just lave the bike in gear and get all 6 off to change out mine, didn't need to hold the basket... Yes I know it isn't the recommended way to to do it but at least for me it worked fine.
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