jonnyc21

Another note on the Bank Angle Sensor, I had mine fail on my 2007 4RT so have it bypassed at the moment however if your bike is running fine I wouldn't bypass it unless it is having starting issues and your trying to figure out the root cause. Good to have in the event you fall off the bike and your wrist strap pops off your hand or snaps and the bike is still running on its side it will stop the bike from running. In my minds eye unless your riding pro and want to save every ounce you can its not worth it. The rest of the mods your listing sound more like weight savings advice and are not going to gain you enough to really matter much. Can you explain why you would want them other than weight? What would it gain you? Happy to help where I can just don't want to wast your time or cause you more problems by messing with something that isn't broken or will not gain you enough to be worth the extra hassle if it isn't needed.

I considered getting parts to try and build a 4RT into a 4 Ride at one point so here is a few things I found. I am not sure all of the parts for converting a 4 Ride over to a 4RT however a few items that you would need would be the fuel tank, fender to start with, the exhaust looks different (guessing the header might be as well?), I know the final drive sprockets are different as well, the front and rear shocks are a bit taller on the 4 Ride, as is likely the kickstand, the foot peg mounts are more forward on the 4 Ride from what I remember reading, and of course the lack of insterments/dash on the 4RT. The big difference is in the gearbox, the 4 Ride has a more even gearing step between each gear from 1st to 5th but the 4RT has a much closer gear set from 1st to 3rd and then much larger steps from 3rd to 4th, and then 5th. From what I remember 1st and 5th are the same between both (or nearly the same), however that is going to be a big difference between them. There is a few things to consider looking into before deciding to try it, and good luck whatever you decide.

I did write it down but apparently when I moved recently I misplaced my binder with the information so regret I am not able to provide the amount different from standard.

On front end dropping quickly maybe this might help. I found the suspension setup between my 2007 4RT 250 and my 2017 300RR was quit different with the 300 seeming to drop a bit quicker than the older bike. I had had the 2007 re-valved and set it up with a little bit more squat in the rear that standard as it felt better in section riding that way. The newer bike seemed to drop the front a bit more tell I did the same tweak to squat the rear a bit as well and that quicker drop feel went away. On another note I have had a good ride on a 2017 Beta 4T 300 and do to the geometry difference they feel quite different but to me most of the biggest differences seem to be suspension setup and head angle. I suspect with some light tweaking on things you should be able to help improve any of the differences between them, however they will never be exactly the same as I am sure you already are aware. Good luck and hope this information helps.

That looks damaged in shipping...

I know you are already willing to stick with the trials tires however figured you might like this bit of info from someone that dose trail ride his trials bike. I use my Montesa for trail and trials and run trials tires 100% of the time. I have had better traction by far than I expected and can get up harder trails than any of my riding buddies. The only times I have debated on a knobby tire was, when in some deep sand and a time when a small section of very muddy trail was a pain. I was able to do both sections okay but would have been a bit easier I think with a more knobby tire. Other than that 9 years of mixed trail and trials and prefer the Michelin X11's if I can find then for both types of riding. My experience for what its worth and hope you enjoy the bike and what ever type of riding you decide to do on it.

I have been able to use super glue to temporarily fill a scratch in my fork tube at an event. I replaced it as soon as possible once I was able to do so, not sure how long the patch job would have lasted but it did get me through the event and a couple weeks tell the part came.

I agree with linaway start by going 3/4 to 1 turn out (counter clockwise) from where it was when it stopped working first. If that dose not fix it I would start by checking if you have spark, if not double check the throttle has a bit of play in it as a pinched cable might not return everything back to 0 and the ECU might be preventing starting, then check ground connections, consider checking if the valve adjustment is correct, however it if went from running fine to not starting that isn't usually the issue, they will be hard start first if that is the problem in most cases. Good luck.

I agree with lineaway, I have seen and fixed more than one buddies brakes because of contaminated pads over the years and most often its an oil based product, including but not limited to WD40, that got on the pads. Comments are always something like, but its just a little over spray (of what ever the product was), and no matter how much cleaning, heating, or other attempts I have tried to get it working again in the end only proper cleaning of the disk, new pads, and a good heat cycle and water quench has been the fix. My exp and 2 cents for what its worth.

Okay, with that I am now guessing tire not rim/wheel. Maybe you could mark the tire and rim where the leak is currently and then rotate the tire leak point to a spot you know there is no leak on the wheel now and check again, if the leak follow the tire its not the rim/wheel, if not then its the wheel? Good luck.

With more than one tire and re-seating it I would sure think the rim has an issue. Last time I had that issue (08 Gas Gas) myself it was a combination of rim and tire, cleaned up the rim a bit better and change to a new tire and it stopped. Still had some rim-band issues so had to clean it up even more before it was really good but no rim leak after it was all sorted. Good luck.

I know my 4RT exhaust gets hot a lot faster than all of the 2t bikes I have owned but I don't think I have ever checked how quick so can't say if its seconds after startup or not. Other than a very hot day I don't think the fan starts up as fast as your indicating yours is doing. Have you checked the coolant level to be sure you are not running a bit low? Also make sure the engine oil level is good as low oil can also contribute to running a bit hot. I have a busy week so will not be running the bike tell Saturday but I will try and remember to check the thread to see if you have a better answer before I ride as well as try and remember to keep an eye on how soon and how hot it seems to get for comparison. Here is to the hope someone else can chime in and confirm with a better response before then.

The mud was a big thing for me when I first got my 07 Montesa 250 as I was in western WA in the US and most of the time it was wet because of rain trees and included all kinds of wet leaves and stuff on the ground I had to ride in. I had two riding buddies at the time and both on 2T Gas Gas's and I didn't have any trouble riding with them. It was different and I started my trials on the Montesa as my first bike so that might have helped but never had any trouble with traction and keeping up with them and progressing. Move to Idaho a number of years ago now so had to re-learn how to ride on dry sticky rocks... was quite the adjustment. What ever way you go, good luck making the call!

I have an 07 250 4RT and a 17 300RR Montesa and spend some good time on a 18 Beta 300 4T. For the most part they are very close however the Montesa has more pull at the low end with the Beta being softer on the low end. The Montesa has just a bit smother throttle through the full range with the top end of both being so close I couldn't tell the difference. The Montesa when swapped for a quick throttle tube (they come stock with a slow/black one) is a lot more aggressive than the Beta even my 250 is more lively with a quick throttle than the Beta however not as much pull as the 300 Beta above the half way point to the top but rev's quicker for sure. The Montesa seemed to carry the weight a bit lower and feels more planted than the Beta did, I found the Beta to be more lively for the suspension and even though the Montesa where adjustable can be nearly the same it still feels a bit less so I think because of how it carries the weight. On the traction side of things I find the Montesa to be much better in the wet than any of the 2T bikes I have been on (Gas Gas 125/250 2T, Beta 250/300 2T) however different and if your used to a 2T it will take some time to adjust to the difference. Between the two I side to the Montesa for the EFI over all considering the only adjustment I have ever had to do is idle/tick-over at very high elevation. Hope that helps a bit with at least one persons experience between a Beta and Montesa 4T. PS, Maintenance on the Montesa is more complex with the way they do the oil filter so that might be worth note.

I would have to give the alpinestars the nod for stiff when considering ankle issues. My wife's garnier are much softer in almost every way. Good luck.