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Another American Fool........


uhoh7
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Sorry i never buy new bikes :D so i wld not know what is recommened but i can say what i wld do. Since you gonna use it for trail riding a 1:70-80 mix wld do in my opinion. Going a little fatter on the oil first few rides is ok.

Just give the pistonrings time to seal properly, normally it takes 5/10 hours before rings seat nicely on a new cilinder. So after two tanks riding the compression shld go up, as motor settles itself.

I just rebuilt my GG 250 and one thing i noticed is how rough some components are, so these components will benefit break in. Also change oil after the first ride and monitor it.

Greasing all the bearings can't hurt either. I really don't know how well they are lubed ex the factory but seeing yr weather it is a nice job to do during the evenings.

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Wow, beautiful place. And I'd say you could use a bit more on the pegs riding there. I don't know about your quest for distance riding. I heard you can go about 40kms (25miles) with the teeny <2 litre stock tank and there are additional strap-on 1or2 litre tanks available, but I don't think you'll need to go that far from the truck to have fun.

Now lets see some pics of you cleaning those sections instead of walking !

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You can ride awhile before you grease the stem and swingarm.

Do the dogbones and wheel bearings too.

For the wheel bearings, the seal has no shoulder and can be carefully pried out with a small screwdriver or pick.

If you can find some 'external gear lube' like they slather on bevel/worm gears on construction equipment, that's good stuff.

Tire pressures between 3 and 5 for rear (less for muddy/soft) and 5-7 for front.

Next time you find some mud, experiment. 2psi difference in a tire in the mud can be huge.

I'd also suggest finding pressures you like and pushing on the tire to feel what it's like.

Maybe some low pressure gauges are OK, but not mine. I have to go by feel.

Also...I can't see the bike too well, but I've seen a lot of offroad bikes where the starting point for handlebar adjustment is in line with the forks, but on a trials bike, you should start with about vertical.

Maybe you need a few personal tips and lessons...we know how the riding is at your place, but how's the food and sleeping accomodations?

Did anybody tell you that when you join the bulletin board, you have to host a riding weekend? :P:D

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Awesome info.

This is a very high end resort area, so of course there is fancy lodging etc. Teardown single family house in Ketchum is now 1.2 mil.

go here and you get an idea: Sun Valley

and here more Sun Valley

Ketchum is the town at the base of the ski mountain.

But anyone from this site is welcome to stay at my house for riding.

This shot is one mile from the house:

imperial.jpg

Extensive trail system....basically from here you can single track to canada. In a car on the highway, Canada is about 12 hours to the north. Within a 50 mile radius there is over 1000 miles of legal backcountry trails.

Thank you boys so much for the great replies. charliechitlins: espcially helpfull. The Bike came with a wonderfull DVD made in the USA in which they go through everthing; split the cases, grease the dog legs; really makes up for the silly GG user manual. Here is the harem:

sisters.jpg

siisters2.jpg

and R2W trials thank you for that link, I will check out whether that applies to my bike. I don't have turn signals, it may be that US destined bikes are diff, but I will see for sure. Very helpfull.

Maybe someday I can visit you guys!

Edited by uhoh7
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I do want to make friends with you! :D

My txt 321 is itching for some good hillclimbs!

Thanks for posting the pics.

Jeff

PS - Here's a link to a seat/tank combo that Lewisport may import...someday. The seat looks similar to the link that r2w posted - it's also in the French Hebo catalogue. I've got some friends in Paris - maybe I'll get them to procure one for me!

http://www.lewisportusa.com/Images/gg_bigtank_seat_1.jpg

-------------

Edit #3! - check this post on that topic

http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/index....opic=5519&st=15

Edited by farmerj
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That Adrian is very nice. He has me on the list. I will give him till Feb to import the tank and seat, and then I'll call italy and have them sent out.

My pack is for water, clothes, lunch, and my ipod...not for fuel bottles, and the hebo t-clamp tank will ruin the looks.... :D

PM me in the spring Farmer, here or at TT or KTM talk.

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uhoh7, Charlie pretty much covered the setup thing. I'd ditch the stock switchgear and get yourself a little two wire momentary kill switch (Honda type, or Yamaha type are popular and easy to come by) and mount it on the bars between the bar clamps. The reason for this position is it's easier to access when the bar is buried in the mud and most importantly much harder to hit with your leg in advertantly, stalling the motor at a very inappropriate time. Also when you do this you can gut out all the unnecessary wiring, leaving a nice tidy, simple wiring loom.

I'd grease the bearings soon as you get a chance. Some come well greased, others dry.

I also find it helpful to install one large starter jet (chock circuit) as it really helps in cold temps and doesn't hurt anything in the heat. #60 is stock, I usually run #65, or you can drill it out slightly as it's not a critical metering jet.

Check spoke tension regularly for the first while, just as you would with any other bike.

Do your grips a favour and get yourself some bar ends. Lewisport will have what you need. They're usually aluminum and protect the end of the bars and grips when you drop the bike...also helps from pinning throttle when dropped on the left side. They are a tidy look and keep from tearing up grips so often.

Think that about covers it...enjoy! Your gonna have a blast on it :hl:

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God you gotta love that big ol radial on the back!

I'd be interested to hear where you are re: your KTM rear tire in another year - after trying out that "big ol radial"!

That's probably the next upgrade to my KDX - you wouldn't naturally think of using a trials tire on an enduro bike...until you try one :hl:

http://www.smackovermotorsports.com/html/articles.html

http://dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.ph...highlight=tires

http://dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.ph...highlight=tires

http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showthrea...ght=trials+tire

Jeff

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congrats on the new bikes!!!

Dreamland riding area you live in

John Stoodly writes some great articles on bike setup. He is on some of the boards and is very helpful. His articles appear in trials competition newspaper

Definitley grease all bearings especially since winter is coming and you will have more time. I have had Gasgas bikes come with lots of grease in certain areas and virtually none in others. I wiould pop off wheel bearing seals and grease as these have been problem areas.

Get yourself a straight thin piece of small diameter rod- use this rod as an alignment tool for your silencer since they are prone to rub on tire after crashes. Lay rod vertically across inside of tire and sticking up past silencer this way you can see if it is goiung to rub. $200 plus if it rubs hole in silencer or you will have to weld up. I have found on some Gasgaspros that if you add a washer or 2 or 3 to the bottom mounting bolt of the mid silencer that it will effectively work to push silencer away from rear wheel. Some bikes need this more than others.

Go through dvd and check to make sure the shift lever action is perfect. Jim Snell does a nice job of walking you through that procedure.

Dont be afraid to adjust air screw or pilot jet on carb In our area almost all seem to be a little lean. Your elevation may eliminate that for you.

No trials bikes like extended wide open runs(my guess is has to do with coolant capacity etc.) Ask anybody who has ridden SSDT and they will tell you of destroyed engines.

Safety wire grips(I like to glue also)

I also like to safety wire rear axle nut. Also safety wire throttle cable to carb and to throttle housing to keep branches etc from pulling it out as easily.

Anti sieze all steel to aluminum bolts you will be glad later:))

Ride , ride ,ride and have fun

All I can think of for now

Tom Bledsoe

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I understand wiring the throttle cable to the housing, but the other side of that is, if it's not wired, a good tug on the throttle cable will pop the cap off the throttle, and the cable will come out.

This can save you from a wide open over-rev if the throttle sticks. Sometimes the throttle has just enough resistance that the cable won't return if it's kinked or has some grit in it.

Or if you just plain sink the grip in the mud.

Anyway...whichever you do, something will probably happen to make you wish you'd done the other. :hl:

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More awesome and very appreciated replies. Makes me want to take the thing out in the snow right now!

I have a bunch of trials DVDs and what I think is really gonna help me is this Ryan Young Training DVD I just got which is very extensive on technique. Have also subscribed to Trials Comp newsletter.

So I hope when you guys come to visit I won't be a complete anchor.... :hl:

I'm dead serious about visiting, lots of room at the house. Biggest issue would be getting something to ride out here. But with notice you might even be able to rent something, trials or enduro in Boise and bring it over.

As far as wide open long riding: I'm not a huge "revver". Hopefully with frequent oil changes, the pro will handle some extended jaunts, with a bit of babying. Gearset is tall enough, our trail speed is seldom over 30mph.

I did put the 10 tooth front sprocket on, but now I will have to take a link out of the chain.

I am running GM autotrak II per recomendations, but the clutch does seem to like to drag a bit just around the yard. You know you pull it in but the bike will still creep. I have never run it more than about 10 minutes and it's cold out, so it could be the temp, but I do hear others comment on this.

Is this just normal or should I adjust the clutch?

All the best, and one more shot: note forrest fire on right

paradise_(33).JPG

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