Hey guys n gals   looking for some advice on best way to tighten main swing arm spindle as it's just spinning , currently rebuilding full rear end just in process of reassembling. ..fitted all balls axel kit and bushings,  I've got the rear spindle in and got the bolt in the other side easy enough.  Started tightening the bolt and it's pulled the spindle in along with the new plastic bush that on outside of the frame and all is flush,  I've been told to torque the spindle up before tightening the motor pinch bolts,  issues is that it's all spinning now . Am I okay  to nip the pinch bolts up if not how are you guys doing this?  Sorry if it's a bit of a daft question any help appreciated

Can you push a bar or screwdriver into the blank end to slow or stop spinning. Eventually it should bite. Also you can load up the arm by placing bike on its wheels just to do this part of the job.

5 minutes ago, oni nou said:

Something is wrong..either the piece that screws into the spindle is not screwing into the spindle far enough and is tightening into the spindle [bottoming out]before it touches the frame or all balls design is balls and not like the genuine part, Aftermarket bits never usually fit properly bikes,cars. trucks it doesn't matter.... they should supply a drill a grinder taps and dies and a set of files with most pattern parts.

Cheers for that, I had a feeling that something was amiss, and that it should be tightening , I'll have another look when I get home 

2 minutes ago, anotherfive said:

Can you push a bar or screwdriver into the blank end to slow or stop spinning. Eventually it should bite. Also you can load up the arm by placing bike on its wheels just to do this part of the job.

I'm using the o.e bolt but the axle is from the load of balls kit And has a solid face unlike the standerd spindle that's hollow,   at the moment I can't load the bike due to rear shock and linkages been off the bike but ill try it once refitted if I'm still at a loss

2 hours ago, oni nou said:

if it will not tighten up..... then your easiest fix of course is to use a washer/washers to take up the slack or grind a bit off the end of the threads of the OE dome head allen bolt etc.

Would loosening the rear engine mounting help any or is this just if you having problems relocating the bolt while refitting,  the spindle is all the way through and the bolt will start easily  by hand,  I'll try a washer or two see if that's helps  , really appreciate the help 

Edited January 29, 20188 yr by candy red

Maybe it is too long. If theres no movement when pulling on the s w arm then it may be tight enough.It does not affect the bearing loading really. Best to be tight though. Pull the arm to one side, does that help stop spindle turning

Pinch  bolts are looser than Katie Price  on way home now so fingers crossed a washer fixes this headache ill keep you posted cheers again

Sorry oni nou but the pinch bolts should be the last thing to tighten otherwise you could side load the engine cases when tightening spindle.....expensive mistake !!!!!!

Yep soz

 

After taking almost everything in my garage apart to find appropriate size washers and a good 15 minutes scratching my head watching the spindle still move, I've come to the conclusion that this is a load of a***. ...so I've reused the original just give it a clean, tapped it home Torqued it up,  and sat back with a coffee, .. what's people thoughts is it worth the hassle of returning it to the shop or sending it back to "load of ball" with a disgruntled letter

Any chance that you compared the OEM and the "new" spindle and noted what was the difference? Overall length? Thread length? Head shape (I seem to recall that the spindle on my 2008 TXT300 has a small flat on it)?

But happy to hear that you resolved the issue.

Dale

Edited January 29, 20188 yr by d2w

4 minutes ago, oni nou said:

Did you try fitting the total balls up supplied retaining screw or was there a problem with that and that's why you went for using the OE one.

NOP... using the oe as  all balls kit fails to provide a bolt , if the linkage kit I've also fitted is as good as the axel kit and I end up rebuilding this again in a month, I swear to god someone from all balls will be going under my patio

54 minutes ago, d2w said:

Any chance that you compared the OEM and the "new" spindle and noted what was the difference? Overall length? Thread length? Head shape (I seem to recall that the spindle on my 2008 TXT300 has a small flat on it)?

But happy to hear that you resolved the issue.

Dale

hi Dale your correct in saying the original has a flat side this new all balls 1 is a completely flat top and the axle is solid all the way threw apart from the bolt hole, makes removal a lot easier as you can place a punch inside and tap it out with out  damaging threads,  the original instantly felt more of a snug fit and tightened up with no issue 

Although this post is old, I am replacing the swingarm bearings and pivot on a 2014 GasGas TXT250 and have both the All Balls kit and new GasGas parts on hand.

I have not tried fitting the All Balls kit but did measure the difference in swingarm pivot length when used with the same brand plastic spacer.

The All Balls swingarm axle is 0.3 mm longer. I have no idea if this length is enough to be an issue, but would be surprised if the tolerance was this tight. 

If when I use the kit in future is won't tighten I will machine the extra length off the pivot shaft.

Regards,

Peter.