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d2w

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About d2w

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    Advanced Member

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  • Bike
    2008 GasGas TXTs

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  • Location
    Summerland, B.C. Canada
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    Male

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  1. While the radiator/fan is out, drill-out the rivets which secure the fan to the rad and replace with short sheet-metal screws. Then in the future you can remove the fan (say to replace the fan motor ) or to ease access to the top-end without having to remove the radiator itself.
  2. This is likely equivalent to the OEM unit in your GG: https://www.splatshop.co.uk/xiu-rdi-adjustable-spring-clutch-support-plate.html
  3. d2w

    Brake fade

    While you're poking about, verify that your rotor isn't below it's minimum thickness; if it's too thin it's possible the pistons are over-extending and not applying an even pressure onto the pads.
  4. I too have Marzocchi forks on one of my TXTs, and parts for those forks are difficult to source. I've heard others have had some success finding equivalent parts at pedal-bike shops as Marzocchi forks are/were used on some high-end mountain bikes. Try the Trials Bike Breaker in the UK. Ohlins seems to offer a good supply of parts for their products, and you might be able to source an equivalent part from them. Oh, yes, the paint covered springs are after-market and are clearly a bad design; OEM springs are unpainted.
  5. If you need a smidge more of clearance, consider using a metal gasket between the engine and the flywheel cover; the later bikes used these thicker gaskets. The Splat Shop has them. The SS can also sell you a new flywheel cover for not much coin.
  6. d2w

    Marzocchi fork rebuild

    With full credit to the Hell Team. Follow the link at the bottom of their page for the detailed instrucitons. https://thehellteam.blog/servicing-marzocchi-40mm-aluminium-forks/
  7. d2w

    I need help

    In addition to what peterb suggests, use a heat-gun/hair-drier to warm and soften the rubber between the carb and the airbox before pushing the carb outlet into the reed-block input. Basically you're trying to stretch the rubber snorkel.
  8. Some related thoughts on the various matters gleaned from my experience with my - albeit older - 2008 GG TXT 300 PRO: - The "put it in gear (2nd), roll back to find compression, pull in the clutch, press lightly on the kick starter until resistance is felt, and then kick solidly" is the required starting procedure. - I just added the S3 head and low compression insert and it feels very nice. Oddly enough the inserts and head required a minor modification in order to get them to fit; you had to pull/grind the alignment pin in the insert otherwise the two pieces WON'T align. - Use some grease to hold the head o-rings in place when reassembling; the grease prevents them from dropping out and becoming pinched. - I also fitted a flywheel weight to my bike (to further smooth it). - Some people fit the throttle with the black tube for a slower/longer response (but I prefer the faster white tube). Enjoy.
  9. d2w

    Hole above gear lever

    Yes. Crank case breather. Normally there's an elbow in the hole, and then a hose which runs up into the steering head area.
  10. OK, here are some photos. The first shows the ignition module (left) and coil (right), The second shows the voltage regulator (top, in the crescent cutout). And the third shows the fan control module (with the 'E') mounted to the fan shroud.
  11. No worries. I can send some photos is you need more info. And note that it's possible that the actual wiring may be different than what's depicted in the schematic; in my bikes the rad thermostat is positioned between the fan controller and the fan. Hmmm ... this is actually less than optimal as the fan controller will always be powered. It might be better to ensure that the actual wiring is as the schematic shows.
  12. On my 2008s, the (Kokusan) CDI mounts under a wire tab on the left side of the frame near the steering stem.The coil mounts via a bolt into a threaded insert on the right side of the frame near the steering stem (near the rad cap). The voltage regulator mounts low in the area of the steering stem. And the fan controller mounts on the upper/left corner of the fan shroud. It's all a tight fit. Yes, the rocker switch is for the dual-mapping of the CDI. This may help:
  13. This is another alternative. https://trialendurodirect.com/product/gg-pro-model-cylinder-head-spacer/ I'm not sure if it's compatible with the head of your 2020 model. It worked well on my son's 2008. But it's not without issues: - There's no o-rings between the top of the cylinder and the plate, so you have to seal it with silicon/gasket maker, and that could leak. - You increase the squish band by 1mm, so that may effect your engine running (but we did not experience that). But it is a low-cost option which can easily be jettisoned if it doesn't work for you.
  14. Not without cost, but I believe a 250cc or 280cc cylinder and piston can be fitted on a 300cc engine; they share the same crank case.
  15. Further to jonboy883's post, if the water pump seal is compromised then the crankcase oil will be white/milky (in addition to the coolant level being down). If you replace the seal then you should also replace the pump shaft as the seal rides on the pump shaft and wears it.
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