Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About d2w

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Previous Fields

  • Bike
    2008 GasGas TXTs

Profile Information

  • Location
    Summerland, B.C. Canada
  • Gender

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. d2w

    Issues with Fan

    Oh, and another obvious check ... verify that the radiator fins are not plugged/obstructed (say by dirt/dried mud). It's all a pretty simple system, but it's no less critical for the correct operation of your bike.
  2. d2w

    Issues with Fan

    Or perhaps the fan is on because the bike is too hot (regardless of the air temperature)? Have you verified the amount and state of the coolant? Have you checked the water pump (as I've heard that the impeller blades can deteriorate)? Have you inspected the coolant channels in the cylinder (perhaps they're partially blocked)?
  3. As unpleasant as it may seem, I do believe that what you (mostly) describe is normal; I know that both of my 2008 GGs require "effort" to shift between 4th and 5th. I believe the effort is required because the compact design of the transmission requires that two sets of gears move when shifting between 4th and 5th, and there's just more moving parts which need to come together when making this transition. My 4th to 5th issue can be mitigated by realizing that my tranny can never be "flicked" between those gears, and instead if I hold the lever (in 5th) before and during when I release the clutch when up-shifting things go better. Same with 4th; hold in 4th and then release the clutch when down-shifting. I guess, basically try different shifting techniques. But a grinding sound doesn't sound good. Have you ensured that you have correct free-play on your clutch? Are you getting a good disengagement?
  4. My son had a TXT50, and I seem to recall that it had a dual-function clutch arrangement; is there a clutch lever as well as an automatic clutch mechanism? On my son's bike I removed the clutch lever and replaced it with a rear brake (and removed the rear brake pedal). This was done to be an easier transition from his OSET which had its controls setup that way. Perhaps your clutch level mechanism is preventing the automatic clutch from fully engaging? And don't expect the TXT50 to do big walls and splats. Use it to teach the basics and how to start a gas motor, how not to get burnt, etc. Clutch control too. And start shopping for the next bike right now. I went with a GG TXT80 but it too was so down on power; but still a good platform to learn gear selection, etc. I have no experience with it but I've heard good things about the Beta Rev80 with the big wheels. Have fun.
  5. Well done. Yes, when one looks at your first photo of the stem nut, it's obvious that it's upside down. "Experience: it gives the test first and the lesson afterwards". Oh ... one more thing to consider, when tightening the top nut, ensure that your fork tube pinch bolts on the upper yoke are completely slack (as the top yoke needs to be able to move downwards onto the bearing load nut). And then tighten those bolts once you've torqued the top nut.
  6. My understanding is that the top nut threads onto the spindle and draws the top yoke to the spindle nut (?). If the top nut is bottoming out before it engages the yoke, it seems that your only recourse is to remove some material from the top nut, or shim the gap between the top nut flange and the yoke (with some large washers perhaps). I can't recall what the suggested torque is for the top nut, but my concern would be that you may not engage sufficient threads on the spindle if the spindle isn't protruding sufficiently. Is your top tapered bearing race driven sufficiently down into the steering head/frame (i.e., what would be immediately under the opaque nylon dust cap)? I think the race should be flush with the frame.
  7. d2w

    Gasgas trials bike

    I'm not too sure of this - and my intention is not to spread mis-information - but I've heard that as Gas Gas was experiencing their many disruptions towards the end, bikes were often put together with what parts they had on hand. As a result, parts for a specific bike may now be difficult to source as all were consumed during production. That being said, since GG are essentially unchanged (in broad terms), it may be possible to find older parts to fit a newer bike. I guess I'm "fortunate" in that all of my GGs are 2008's and there are lots of parts and broken bikes available. So ... I'd carefully consider parts availability if thinking of buying a newer GG. But I do love the marque.
  8. Ted, thanks for the information, and I'm happy to hear that you seem to have it sorted. But what prompted you to have to replace the bearings and in such numbers? Was the bike run without oil? Or poor oil? Or submerged in water and then ignored? Or it a simple case of wear and maintenance? And how does one tell if inner bearings need replacement? I have yet to open the cases of my two 2008 GGs. Or is it a case that all is fine until it isn't?
  9. d2w

    Gas gas 250 txt

    Hopefully this will add to your confidence. Full credit to Jim Snell. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gnLY1IrMvBM
  10. Those bearings with a provided seal look interesting. I have no experience with them, but I'd venture that you're correct and that the o-ring isn't applicable as the space the o-ring used to engage is now covered by the seal. As for the washer, it *may* be necessary if you find that if you were to use only the seal you "run out" of thread when tightening the stem nut when tensioning the bearings. If the seal and the original washer are the same thickness then I'd think you're good to go.
  11. d2w

    Gas gas 250 txt

    Yup, it's time to open it up. Do be aware that for an initial inspection you can keep the coolant system intact (i.e., you can remove the water pump and clutch cover as a unit without first draining the coolant), and if you lay your bike on it's left side you can remove the clutch cover without first draining the oil. Jim Snell has a video on servicing the PRO clutch and it discusses these simplifications (as well as talks about a shim on the kick-starter shaft). It's all good stuff.
  12. Happy to hear that it's almost sort for you. Here's two other "long shot" items to verify; do verify that your tank breather/one-way valve is working correctly and allowing air into the tank. Also, verify that the carb vent lines are allowing the fuel in the bowl to be pressurized to atmospheric. Plugged lines/hoses can be a bitch to track down.
  13. You must use some serious yeast if you need to secure the corks with a 6 tonne press. Your uncorking parties must be interesting.
  14. And they`re good to have if you want to reacquaint yourself with friends who need a press (often to press out their steering stems).
  15. There are plenty of posts here about the starting procedure which is REQUIRED with GGs. Don't just try and try like it's a dirt bike as you'll frustrate yourself and likely break the internal starter mechanism. Verify that the choke is ON if it's cold. Second gear. Roll back until it stops (at the top of the stroke). Clutch in. Foot on lever. Push back until slight resistance is felt. Now, kick firmly and through until it stops at the footpeg. No throttle if the choke was on, but a little throttle if you were starting from warm/hot and the choke was off (as opening the throttle defeats the choke). If it doesn't start then repeat the entire procedure, especially the roll-back to position the piston. Good luck.
  • Create New...