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d2w

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About d2w

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    Advanced Member

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  • Bike
    2008 GasGas TXTs

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  • Location
    Summerland, B.C. Canada
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    Male

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  1. Not directly related to your post, but I believe "older" GG PROs - like my 2008s - use a special main bearing (at least on one side of the crank) which has a hole in the outer race which must be aligned with a channel in the case, and oil is pressurized to flow through that channel and into the bearing. I have 500 hours on my main bearings and nary an issue (that I can discern) . I wonder why GG would switch to a fully sealed bearing?
  2. Like this? https://www.splatshop.co.uk/engine-kill-switch.html or https://www.splatshop.co.uk/kill-light-switch-on-off-toggle-switch.html or https://www.splatshop.co.uk/leonelli-kill-switch.html
  3. Tacton, I found some photos of my tranny. My photos show the shift drum in the same orientation. That being said ... one thing that *may* have caught my eye when looking at your old photos above and comparing them to mine ... on the shaft with the two shaft with the two shift forks... is the lower one flipped? The beveled edge looks to be oriented different than mine? Bit perhaps it's just a photo angle thing since maybe the guide pin only allows the fork to be installed one way? Anyways, here are some photos for reference. Again, these photos are from a 2008 GG PRO TXT300.
  4. You wrote: ... and I replaced the primary shift fork because the dowl was missing So did you ever find the missing dowel? Could it still be jammed in the tranny gears and preventing them from rotating and/or moving on the shafts as is required? Can all gears and "discs-with-the-dawgs" (sorry, can't think of their name as the moment ) rotate and move on the shafts as required? There are a number of needle bearings on the shafts on which the gears rotate. Have you checked them for being in good repair? Mine were minutes from grenade-ing; I touched mine and they fell apart (and not in a normal/correct way). If yours are gone perhaps a gear which is supposed to slide/rotate is now appearing to you to be (erroneously) secure?
  5. Hi from the Okanagan (the source of most of your smoke ) I recently rebuilt the tranny of my 2008 PRO; I'm assuming it's "close" to your tranny in design. I too was unsure if it need to be in a certain gear during reassembly, but I eventually reasoned that it did not; the gears are positioned by the shift forks, and the forks are positioned according to the tracks/grooves in the shift drum. The drum only stops its rotation (first gear and sixth gear) when the forks are at the end of their travel in the drum tracks. So the initial placement of the drum doesn't matter as the forks and gears will align correspondingly. Basically, the position of the tranny pieces are absolute. I was able to manually "drive" my tranny through all gears. But I had to work at it, including rotating the tranny input shaft forward and back as well as rotating the tranny output shaft forward and back.. The operation was clunky. If you can't get into the higher gears, do verify that both selector forks move when you rotate the shift drum. Try to identify what's stopping the higher gears from being selected. Does the tranny still rotate as expected when you're trying to get into the higher gears, or is there some interference/collision of gears, etc? Any chance you have a shift fork on "reversed/backwards"? Jim Snell (or maybe Motobene) had a diagram of a PRO tranny which documented how the power was transferred through the tranny in each of the various gears (as its design is "clever" [some say like a grenade ]). Dunno if it applies to your tranny. However it may help you better understand how yours should work and why it might not be working now. Dale With credit to Motobene and/or Jim Snell (as I see the Rising Sun Imports reference).:
  6. Reassembled without the Woodruff key (to ensure correct alignment of the flywheel on the crank, and thus the timing of the ignition)?
  7. d2w

    07 txt pro

    I'm always kean to learn from others; what is a recommended (I hate "best") way to recover from a drowned bike? I guess it also depends on the degree of "drowned". Remove water from airbox and filter? Remove plug and invert bike to remove water from cylinder? Rotate bike to remove water from header and exhaust? Remove flywheel cover and dry components? But what do you do about the crank and to avoid a hydro-lock in the crankcase? It's not practical/safe to drain the oil. Hmmm. Similarly I guess you can't do much about water in the gas tank. And I guess if/once you get home you replace the crank oil ASAP. I've heard of riders flushing the water out using diesel fuel. So ... what causes the potential damage? Is it the water or the material/grit carried by the water? Either way, I'd imagine it's best to kill the engine as soon as possible to minimize what gets sucked in. FYI, it's ironic for me to be asking for advice on how to recover from a drowned bike while right now here in southern British Columbia Canada we just got through with a 45C heat bubble and the hills are explosively dry. Out of respect/fear, we're all electing not to ride in the bush. At least once this is over the rocks will still be there. And future electric bikes may not provide the solution; fear of LIPO fires from a crash are starting to be voiced. I'm too old and fat to peddle. Dale
  8. Thanks for the info. Has anyone tried to use the cellulose (I think) type of house-wall type of blow-in insulation material as a muffler packing material? It certainly is low cost (which would promote frequent replacement).
  9. d2w

    2003 txt hebo caliper

    Seals might be had at a shop specializing in hydraulic fittings or hoses.
  10. Based upon lineaway's comment, I think I better understand the picture you posted previously; it sure looks like a chunk of your shift drum is missing! The channel for the pin of the shift fork needs to be complete and well defined. And without a shift fork pin - as you state - there's no mechanism by which the rotating shift drum can move the forks to select a gear. Sorry to say, but you transmission appears to be in need of some serious repair.. But a few parts should get you shifting right. Good luck.
  11. Tacton, since you're in Creston, Dave Fair at Moto Trials West in Victoria may be you're best and closest source for needed parts; he helped me with what I needed when I repaired the tranny in my 2008 TXT. Dave also suggested that I replace the needle bearings under the gears on the shafts, and I'm glad I did as they fell apart immediately when I removed the gears (so the bearings were waiting to fail). Basically ... since you're in so deep, best to go all the way in.
  12. Interesting observation. I too have a GG (two in fact) which experience the same initial 'loading". Could it have anything to do with the exhaust system not yet being at an operational temperature, and so the bike doesn't exhaust as well as is required? Being a two stroke our engines are dependent upon a back-pressure to maintain the fuel charge in the cylinder. Perhaps the pressure isn't correct when things are "cold"? Or perhaps the heat eventually better seats/seals the rings? Or the spark plug resistance is lowered so that the spark is stronger?
  13. Sorry to hear. But if you're imparting enough force into your kick to break the lever, you had best check the kick start mechanism and "Bart Simpson" gear and the idler gear; they're notoriously delicate and don't take to being abused.
  14. Perhaps here: https://www.trialsbikebreakersuk.com/ Or try Jim Snell in the USA here: http://www.trialspartsusa.com/repair-services.html
  15. Howdy. I believe the VMar units are still available. Dunno about the one made on your side of the pond. But here's a quick/no cost solution to try first. Release the carb from the reed block. Secure it well to the airbox outlet (aka the snorkel) Use a hot air gun (>>> not an open flame!!! <<<) to soften the snorkel material. Heat it from all sides uniformly. When it's sufficiently pliable, push the carb into the reed block and secure.Let it cool and - voila - it should be "back to normal". For an even "better" seal, I secure my rubber adapter to the carb using an adhesive called "Shoe Goo". It's some sort of vinyl adhesive.
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