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About d2w

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    2008 GasGas TXTs

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    Summerland, B.C. Canada
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  1. d2w

    2002 Gas Gas Txt Pro

    Three suggestions: 1) Search this forum as "Can't get pressure on the clutch" is a question/issue often raised. 2) Use your syringe to push fluid from the slave back/up to the master. 3) Verify that the plunger on the master is moving to the outer (c-clip) stop and that you're getting the full range of motion. You need to ensure that you're moving the seal so that the orifice to the hose is exposed, otherwise the line will never pressurize when the lever is squeezed. Be methodical in your debugging; there are not a lot of pieces to the puzzle.
  2. d2w

    Beta 80 flywheel weight

    I don't know what clearances your bike has between the existing flywheel and the flywheel/magneto/stator cover, but with the help of my brother we machined a band of metal rather than a disc for use in my son's TXT80. We heated the band and cooled the existing flywheel for installation, and when the metals returned to their normal temps they were held together tight.For metal we purchased some brass pipe whose ID was slightly smaller than the OD of the existing flywheel, then we machined the ID, the OD and the width. We used a blob of modeling clay (Plasticine, Playdoh, etc.) stuck to the flywheel to determine what clearances we had to work with; stick the clay to the flywheel, temporarily refit the cover, spin the engine to move the flywheel/clay through a rotation, and then remove the cover. Voila, the thickness of the clay will match the maximum thickness of your flywheel weight. Note, mounting a band of metal on the outer diameter of the existing flywheel will be significantly more effective then mounting a disk on the plane of the flywheel.As a result the weight can be less than what would normally be considered in much an application. Good luck. FYI, the FWW didn't do much for the TXT80; it did help with the inertia and made the bike easier to ride, but it did slow down the engine response. In the end I concluded that the little 80cc just wasn't going to deliver the performance my son needed, and so I got him a TXT280! He's happy now.
  3. d2w

    Gas Gas TXT 280 Pro low power and hard to start

    I suggest that you also verify that the piston is installed in the correct orientation; you want it so that the ring retaining pins (and hence the ring ends) do not pass any port openings in the cylinder (where they might catch). Normally, a piston will have a mark (typically a "V") stamped on the crown, and that's to be oriented towards the exhaust port. I can see an "A" on your piston which corresponds to the size (first oversize), but I don't clearly see the "V". Or maybe the "V" is there amongst the other lines/marks. Just have a look. I will be obvious when you remove the jug as to whether or not the piston is installed correctly; you want the ring ends towards the rear-half of the jug,
  4. d2w

    Gas Gas TXT 280 Pro low power and hard to start

    I suggest checking the easiest and obvious before wrenching the engine: - Air flow not impeded? Air box, filter, connecting junctions. - Fuel available? Flowing from tank to carb? Correct mixture ratio? - Got spark? Clean or fouled plug? - Do you have compression? Reduced compression? - Not that it's directly power/performance related, but do you have sufficient coolant? Is your oil clean (and coolant free)? But running with little/no coolant can eventually toast your engine due to excessive heat.
  5. d2w

    TXT 50 Rookie

    The difficulty we experienced - and it may have very well been due to our poor riding/teaching technique - was that the TXT 70 motor - a Morenelli I believe - was essentially a scooter motor and had no torque. So to use the bike Even really had to ring it out into its 10K RPM range! But this is not where one wants to be when learning. I did make a flywheel and I did replace the jug and piston - again looking for more power -, but the changes weren't significant. And now on the 280 the opposite problem is occurring as Evan struggles to keep the front wheel on the ground.
  6. d2w

    TXT 50 Rookie

    I have owned a TXT 50 Rookie and a TXT 70 Cadet and they are very different engines (and transmissions); the Rookie had a two-speed gearbox with a manual as well as an automatic clutch, while the Cadet had a six-speed manual clutch. I started my son on an OSET and transitioned through the Rookie and Cadet, but it's now on the TXT 280 that he's finally making significant progress and having fun. And it helps for him that at only 13 years old he's already 6 foot 1 inch! The power of the bike and the full sized wheels make all the difference for him. Still, having the smaller bikes were fun and built his confidence, but I too tried to "find more power" from them and it just didn't work. If I were to do it all over again rather than the Rookie and Cadet I might go with some of the bigger OSETs before getting a full-sized gas bike. The 280 was selected because it was available/close and shares most of its parts with my TXT300. A 125 or a Beta 200 might be a better first gas trials if coming off of a series of electrics.
  7. Yup. Simple friction fit. I use a nylon/rubber hammer to gently tap mine into place. I guess one could use some sort of adhesive (silicon perhaps) to glue it into place.
  8. d2w

    Can't start my 125 pro!

    Alexdukes ... Just some basic questions ... What do you see in the oil when you drain it? What kind/size of debris is stuck to the fill and drain plug magnets? I believe that diesel fuel is a safe solution to use when trying to flush debris from an engine.
  9. d2w

    Can't start my 125 pro!

    I'm sorry for Alexdukes situation, but I'm eager to learn from it as well. If a (connecting road and/or main) bearing "went", how would one assess that? What would you "feel" when moving the crank through its stroke? Would it grind or stick or ... ?
  10. d2w

    Can't start my 125 pro!

    I too noted that texturing around the the piston top (but not on the top of the crown). Would that area correspond to the "squish zone" (and so little clearance between the head and the piston)? It sure looks like something was being driven into the piston. Alexdukes ... Do you have a picture of the (underside of the) head?
  11. d2w

    Keihin Carb to Airbox Seal?

    I'm having similar issues with the boots on my older GG's. Thumbs-up to Lineaway's suggestion. In addition I may try to somehow soften the rubber; I was thinking of leaving it near a source of moderate heat (possibly steam from a boiling kettle, or a hairdryer). An open flame or too high a heat or a concentrated heat could be bad.Good luck.
  12. d2w

    new to gasgas bikes

    I do a little bit more than Zippy when sparking my bike ... before doing exactly as Zippy describes, I pull in the clutch ...put my bike into second gear ... let out the clutch ... use my feet to roll the bike backwards until I feel resistance ... pull in the clutch ... and then kick as Zippy describes. Basically I'm first positioning the piston for maximum travel time.
  13. Well, there's only four major components in the system; the rear brake caliper/slave cylinder, the hose, the master cylinder, and the reservoir. As you speculate, there must be a blockage in at least one of those items. Time to dismantle and test each for flow. My money is on a stuck piston in the master cylinder (or one that;s not retracting sufficiently to expose the refill hole). Good luck and keep us informed of your findings.
  14. d2w

    new to gasgas bikes

    My experience with the GG PRO manual is that it is a User's Manual (i.e., operations and some basic maintenance) and not a detailed mechanical (aka shop) manual. I do find the exploded parts manual useful to see how things are put together, I was able to address the drag on my clutch by 1) Removing the clutch cover to access the clutch, dismantling the clutch, and carefully adjusting the clutch "fingers" to the specified height (I believe 17.1mm [it's spec'ed int he User's Manual ]) and 2) Using the adjuster bolt on the clutch lever to ensure the correct freeplay and sufficient engagement/drive when operated.
  15. A slight - but related - diversion ... on two occasions I've snapped a seized brake bleeder nipple The nipple is hollow and I'm guessing the dissimilar metals of the nipple and caliper set up some sort of galvanic reaction and/or oxidization which effectively glues the two parts together. I tried to use heat to free them first but it never worked. But once broken off I was able to carefully use a hand drill to remove the broken bits and retap using an M6x1 (I think). So long as you don't go too deep on the final/largest drill bit you can preserve the seating surface and the new nipple will seal. I then use some Teflon "plumber tape" on the threads to better secure the nipple and ensure easy removal the next time. Don't forget to pierce a hole in the tape to allow the fluid to drain when the nipple is partially backed out.