Jump to content

d2w

Members
  • Content Count

    88
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About d2w

  • Rank
    Member

Previous Fields

  • Bike
    2008 GasGas TXTs

Profile Information

  • Location
    Summerland, B.C. Canada
  • Gender
    Male

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Can't agree more that you should completely dismantle the rear suspension and verify the state of all bearings, and then lube them. If your bike was put away "wet", the rust will have had a nice long time to form. Not good. Steering head and wheel bearings too. If for no other reason, do it for your peace of mind.
  2. d2w

    Front folks

    There's no "right" or "wrong" position, but the two forks/folks need to be equal. Sliding the forks up the triple clamp will slightly increase the rake and make the bike turn a wee bit "faster" (but be a bit more "twitchy" when trying to go straight). And the converse is true when the forks are pushed down the triple clamps. I believe the top of the fork >tubes< should never be lower than the top of the triple clamp.
  3. d2w

    Gah. New ignition, new problems.. TXT300...

    Thank you for that critical bit of knowledge. I found this related useful thread: https://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/57493-crank-bearings/
  4. d2w

    Gah. New ignition, new problems.. TXT300...

    Hmmm ... I'm just trying to learn from this thread (and not de-rail it). Doesn't the LHS oil seal actually keep the crank and flywheel/stator areas separate? Neither of those areas contain liquid oil. So if there was a leak wouldn't it be an air leak? And then wouldn't that cause the bike to run lean (with the added air into the crank) or just poorly (with less vacuum to draw in the fuel/air mixture)? And isn't it the RHS oil seal which separates the crank from the oil within the clutch/transmission? I could imagine a leak in that seal would draw oil into the crank and colour the exhaust as the oil would be combusted. Thanks for the education.
  5. d2w

    Help Piece Back Together TX 320

    A fun-looking project. Consider that you may have parts from more than one bike there; it appears that you have four or five brake slave cylinders, and you'll only need two.
  6. For future reference, from whom did you buy it (if not a private sale)?
  7. Could the white smoke be in fact steam? I seem to recall reading that white "smoke" could be indicative of a head (o-ring) leak into the combustion chamber. Perhaps do a quick assessment of your coolant level?
  8. d2w

    2002 Gas Gas Txt Pro

    Three suggestions: 1) Search this forum as "Can't get pressure on the clutch" is a question/issue often raised. 2) Use your syringe to push fluid from the slave back/up to the master. 3) Verify that the plunger on the master is moving to the outer (c-clip) stop and that you're getting the full range of motion. You need to ensure that you're moving the seal so that the orifice to the hose is exposed, otherwise the line will never pressurize when the lever is squeezed. Be methodical in your debugging; there are not a lot of pieces to the puzzle.
  9. d2w

    Beta 80 flywheel weight

    I don't know what clearances your bike has between the existing flywheel and the flywheel/magneto/stator cover, but with the help of my brother we machined a band of metal rather than a disc for use in my son's TXT80. We heated the band and cooled the existing flywheel for installation, and when the metals returned to their normal temps they were held together tight.For metal we purchased some brass pipe whose ID was slightly smaller than the OD of the existing flywheel, then we machined the ID, the OD and the width. We used a blob of modeling clay (Plasticine, Playdoh, etc.) stuck to the flywheel to determine what clearances we had to work with; stick the clay to the flywheel, temporarily refit the cover, spin the engine to move the flywheel/clay through a rotation, and then remove the cover. Voila, the thickness of the clay will match the maximum thickness of your flywheel weight. Note, mounting a band of metal on the outer diameter of the existing flywheel will be significantly more effective then mounting a disk on the plane of the flywheel.As a result the weight can be less than what would normally be considered in much an application. Good luck. FYI, the FWW didn't do much for the TXT80; it did help with the inertia and made the bike easier to ride, but it did slow down the engine response. In the end I concluded that the little 80cc just wasn't going to deliver the performance my son needed, and so I got him a TXT280! He's happy now.
  10. d2w

    Gas Gas TXT 280 Pro low power and hard to start

    I suggest that you also verify that the piston is installed in the correct orientation; you want it so that the ring retaining pins (and hence the ring ends) do not pass any port openings in the cylinder (where they might catch). Normally, a piston will have a mark (typically a "V") stamped on the crown, and that's to be oriented towards the exhaust port. I can see an "A" on your piston which corresponds to the size (first oversize), but I don't clearly see the "V". Or maybe the "V" is there amongst the other lines/marks. Just have a look. I will be obvious when you remove the jug as to whether or not the piston is installed correctly; you want the ring ends towards the rear-half of the jug,
  11. d2w

    Gas Gas TXT 280 Pro low power and hard to start

    I suggest checking the easiest and obvious before wrenching the engine: - Air flow not impeded? Air box, filter, connecting junctions. - Fuel available? Flowing from tank to carb? Correct mixture ratio? - Got spark? Clean or fouled plug? - Do you have compression? Reduced compression? - Not that it's directly power/performance related, but do you have sufficient coolant? Is your oil clean (and coolant free)? But running with little/no coolant can eventually toast your engine due to excessive heat.
  12. d2w

    TXT 50 Rookie

    The difficulty we experienced - and it may have very well been due to our poor riding/teaching technique - was that the TXT 70 motor - a Morenelli I believe - was essentially a scooter motor and had no torque. So to use the bike Even really had to ring it out into its 10K RPM range! But this is not where one wants to be when learning. I did make a flywheel and I did replace the jug and piston - again looking for more power -, but the changes weren't significant. And now on the 280 the opposite problem is occurring as Evan struggles to keep the front wheel on the ground.
  13. d2w

    TXT 50 Rookie

    I have owned a TXT 50 Rookie and a TXT 70 Cadet and they are very different engines (and transmissions); the Rookie had a two-speed gearbox with a manual as well as an automatic clutch, while the Cadet had a six-speed manual clutch. I started my son on an OSET and transitioned through the Rookie and Cadet, but it's now on the TXT 280 that he's finally making significant progress and having fun. And it helps for him that at only 13 years old he's already 6 foot 1 inch! The power of the bike and the full sized wheels make all the difference for him. Still, having the smaller bikes were fun and built his confidence, but I too tried to "find more power" from them and it just didn't work. If I were to do it all over again rather than the Rookie and Cadet I might go with some of the bigger OSETs before getting a full-sized gas bike. The 280 was selected because it was available/close and shares most of its parts with my TXT300. A 125 or a Beta 200 might be a better first gas trials if coming off of a series of electrics.
  14. Yup. Simple friction fit. I use a nylon/rubber hammer to gently tap mine into place. I guess one could use some sort of adhesive (silicon perhaps) to glue it into place.
  15. d2w

    Can't start my 125 pro!

    Alexdukes ... Just some basic questions ... What do you see in the oil when you drain it? What kind/size of debris is stuck to the fill and drain plug magnets? I believe that diesel fuel is a safe solution to use when trying to flush debris from an engine.
×