The new bike has suddenly learned a new trick popping out of first and second gear into neutral. Not real happy about this. Guess I’ll be looking into the shifter mechanism now.

My 2013 250 Evo used to do that sometimes - usually mid-section, resulting in my loosing marks.  Apparently the gear selector fork was too thin and bendy.  Most of them did it occasionally. 

I thought they had sorted out that issue.

is it not still under warranty ??

Yeah, there was once this old git that had nothing better to do that polish his clutch plates.  Maybe this would make it pop out of gear Smoothly!

Put an AJP M/C on it Dan. Everybody should keep a spare old m/c around just for this instance. Changing to lighter springs could solve this also. Wish I could just tell you which springs, but I had a gas gas 160 motor laying around and used the clutch springs out of that cut to length. Lightest Beta clutch ever and still hooks up. Good luck.

4 hours ago, oni nou said:

Forgive them for they know not who you are.

Some days I don’t know who I am?

Edited July 16, 20188 yr by dan williams

19 hours ago, copemech said:

Yeah, there was once this old git that had nothing better to do that polish his clutch plates.  Maybe this would make it pop out of gear Smoothly!

It’s popped out very smoothly thank you very much.

15 hours ago, dan williams said:

Some days I don’t know who I am?

??‍♂️??????‍??‍?????or possibly ?‍???‍???‍✈️????‍???‍???‍? Me I just wake up in the morning and there I am....again???‍♂️?

Why do we have neutral between 1st and 2nd on a trials bike anyway? Seems an unnecessary convention. Neutral at the bottom of the shift range seems more logical. You could always find neutral. You wouldn’t need the short lobes on the shift cam for going between 1st and second. The heart of my problem I suspect. Nobody shifts on the fly in a section, it’s always stop first and take five or six stabs at the lever anyway to know what gear you are in. Click down to neutral then up for the gear you want. None of this down, down, up, down, up, up, up stuff even Toni Bou does.

Another thing that might help is a gearing change. I am now running 9/44, with the intent to use second as the all around first gear found on most modern bikes. This puts thrd exactly were 2nd was with stock gearing. So for you, you could shift to third and back down to second. No nuetral problems.

My 2015 Evo 200 seems harder to find neutral & I sometimes need to resort to using my hand to find the delicate notch between 1st & 2nd gear. I think it might have something to do with using such light viscosity MTL 75W fluid, so I'm leaning back to using the 85W during the summer. I'm at 11/42 (stock gearing on Evo 200) and 10/44 (+2 teeth on rear sprocket on Evo 300) so I use 1st gear for almost all sections, unless there is a big hill to climb and shift to 2nd as needed during my ride. I did the Beta Clutch fix on my 200 and totally eliminated the cold drag at start up and still using the stock top washers.

11/42 gearing makes for a pretty good 1st but 2nd is way too tall. I have used atf in my Beta"s since "89. No problems.

The primary ratio on the 2018 is higher than my 2013. Stock countershaft on the 2013 was an 11 so I went to a 10. Stock countershaft on the 2018 is a 10. I’m not keen on going to a 9 so I went up two teeth on the rear to a 44. Quite happy with the gearing now.

 It’s not popping out constantly but three times in one loop is not something I’m willing to ignore since it happens under power where a spontaneous neutral usually doesn’t end well.

I can't really imagine why the gearing would inherently matter. It might exacerbate or mask the problem for clubmen, but surely a clutch dump in 3rd regardless of the gearing would cause the problem whether there's 9/10/11 on the countershaft. 

My '13 popped out of 2nd all the time. It drove me batty. I've seen it happen to Gary as well, although I think the last time I saw it was last year. You might run it by him.

Ah no, I’m keen to dig into this now. I have some ideas I need to try.