I have a Tr300 that I just replaced the shift drum for and now I am having problems getting the engine back together. I have tried literally everything but the clutch fingers keep binding against the inside of the clutch cover and the kickstart will not engage or at least due to the engine being locked up. I have taken it apart and put back together about 20 times now and the main gear of the clutch is always flush against the primary gear on the crankshaft so I know that is not the issue. The tranission is also seated tightly against the engine and the secondary gear is at the right distance. I assembled my transmission drum based on this video but also noticed that the video shows two positions for installing the drum...the first is with the tab on the 1st gear slot (during removal) and the second (installation) is with the tab on the neutral position. I have tried both. Help!

This is the video I watched to install shift drum. 

 

Edited June 5, 20206 yr by AlexR

 I have never done an Ossa, but lots of gassers. Nice video, but you never spun the gears by hand to see if they move. And the cassette of gears are probably not fully set into the center case is why the clutch fingers are hitting.

Thanks for your reply Lineaway but I did make sure the cassette  was flush and the primary gear on the crank lines up with the clutch gear.

I had an issue with my 2011 Ossa 280 and reassembly of the gearbox.

Before you put the clutch plates and fingers in can you turn the drive sprocket by hand and click through all the gears?

If you can do that then it sounds like you have assembled the plates / fingers incorrectly?

Yes Ossa2011. You hit the nail on the head...I was putting the fingers in the wrong spot ; /

Thanks so much for your advice.

Alex

 

I do have a new problem...it has a bit of a low throttle bog and there seems to be some splooge coming out of the exhaust like its running rich...how do you adjust that on an Ossa? It also seems a bit smokey for a 100:1 mixture.

 

Do you have the software and cables?

   First set idle speed, then with the software set TPS to .6V  (move the TPS until the software reads .6)-  THEN ‘set to ECU’ with software (button).

This will make a huge difference if off.  I found with mine I had to reset TPS about every 100 hours to keep it happy.  The never versions also have a base setting adjustment    Plus/minus from 100%

I’ve made the cables, pretty easy to build.  Parts can take time to find source, but no big deal.

Oh wow, I never knew about this. Where can I get cables and software?

3 minutes ago, AlexR said:

Oh wow, I never knew about this. Where can I get cables and software?

Send me your email (PM here is fine) and I’ll get you the software.  There is a couple of threads about building them- buying is pretty expensive now that the supply of the BTWICE ones dried up. (That is what I have).