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lotus54

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About lotus54

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
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  • Yahoo
    Improv_sax@yahoo.com

Previous Fields

  • Bike
    OSSA Explorer 2014
  • Club
    Puget Sound Trialers

Profile Information

  • Location
    Port Angeles, Washington, USA
  • Gender
    Male

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  1. Yes, that is it. If you shim too far- the nipple with hit the frame.
  2. Not a good picture- darn it. But I hope you can see the 90º zerk (I think 1mm thread pitch?) Here is what I did. For that pin that the 90º zerk is going into- there is a bolt on the other side. I put a small washer such that even with both bolts quite tight, there is a just a bit of clearance, so the pin/arms can move well. It doesn't take much. So a washer between the bolt and pin on the left side.
  3. I will take a picture - I'm changing rear tyre, so good time.
  4. Yes, those connectors on the bottom are very much in the line of water/mud. They operate the fuel pump. mine were nicely sealed and clean the times I've checked. BUT certainly high on the regular maintenance like I think.
  5. I don't now recall who was having some odd running issues, but thought I'd post this idea up for anyone now or future. My 2014 Explorer (same as trials with added subframe, tanks, seat etc) had an off-idle 'burble' a couple of times. At around 100 hours, then again around 200 hours. A TPS adjustment/reset solved those. Normally it runs nice and clean from idle all the way to max rpm. No burbling or richness. A few months ago it started again, and nothing seemed to solve it in the 'usual' areas. But I had never taken the main ECU connector apart. All the other connectors on the bike were well sealed and looked good, and the one time I tried it didn't come apart easily- so I left it. well, I did take it apart a few months ago and find some slight corrosion on a couple of pins. I know the current on a lot of these electronics is very small- so a tiny but of extra resistance can goof it all up. Careful cleaning with a fibreglass 'pen' made for such things and a healthy blast of ACF50--and the bike ran perfectly again and is still running great (I'm something like 315 hours now). It is probably time to pull it apart and blast it again. An idea to all, it may be a good idea to pull that connector apart and give it a careful clean/anti-corrosion treatment. Especially if you see odd running that doesn't seem ro have an easy solution. Mark BTW, I ride in a lot of water and mud.
  6. I have a 'colourized' version someplace..
  7. I have a diagram here- I just need to find it. I have a 74 Explorer that is wired up with no regulator or battery. Lights are not very good- but do work. I'll try to find the diagram. (might be the same as above?) mark
  8. If you remove the cable at the clutch lever on the engine- then move the lever (have to use something to lever it)- does it come right back? could be too large bearing in the middle? (I would thing you would notice it didn't just fall in). I would probably pull the primary cover off and take a look- it isn't a big deal and then you will really know. Plus you could dismantle the clutch to inspect and make sure it is back together correctly etc.
  9. I rode a trial, first in well over a year. I'm a novice, although tried intermediate last year with pretty good results. I wanted to get my head back in it, so did novice class. I got 1 point darn, one dumb dab (not a hard spot either) and wrecked probably the only perfect score I'll ever get ! HA! Loads of fun and the trusty OSSA ran great. The seat doesn't get in my way for how I ride- since I ride it like this so much, I'd rather know exactly what it is going to do rather than have to re-learn.
  10. I bought the bike and the shock form Lewisport- I didn't event think of it! thanks mark
  11. Who does Ohlins service in the States? Any recomendations? I have ave a bunch of hours on the rear damper and figured it is probably overdue. I don't have the tools to do it myself, although perhaps I should investigate that. mark
  12. I'll try to come up with something better describing.
  13. For me it has been worth it. but I broke the stock linkage twice and didn't want to do that again (plus easy lube) make sure they send a 90° zerk for the middle pin, the straight mine came with is inaccessible when on the bike. They are a thread pitch not avaliable locally for me (I live in a small town). I'd also recommend shimming and locktiting that middle pin, to make sure it doesn't come loose. mark
  14. It is working well. I did have the middle rocker bolt come loose- so I shimmed it and re-locktited it to keep it form loose item again. Easy to lube and seems to be holding up well. Seems smoother than the factory, but I could be dreaming. mostly I didn't want to break it again and have to dismantle, lube and replace bushings less often. mark
  15. Puget Sound Trialers also have vintage events, all north of you though. http://www.pugetsoundtrialers.com