uhoh7

haha, I know I am just wondering if there is a flasher unit in there I can rob for another project, of course I pulled out all the wires early on. I have 06 TXT pro. Sold USA. Did it have a flasher? the little box which makes the lights flash for turn. Thanks.

Hi Jim, Thanks for the explanation. And like everybody, I'm in great debt for your videos For me, long distance trail riding in remote areas, I just can't have the clutch suddenly not engage and be blocked. I have to balance the damage with the screw out to damage shifting with no clutch. Not to mention my personal safety. The screw came loose after about 10 rides in 2007 and Dale said: pull it. Never had a problem. Adrian fixed some bad gears for me and put it back in last summer. 20 rides and it came out. I suppose what I should really do is pull the side cover every 10 rides and check it. So, I think I will leave it out for now, but maybe next oil change when I'm not tired of working on it, I'll loctite it in. TY so much for taking the time to post here PS Have you personally seen motors damaged by not having it in, in the way you described? Not talking about the clutch behavior, but the increased wear on parts and wobble on a pro motor with screw out? Baker Peak by unoh7, on Flickr

Haha excellent tip. Yeah, I was over 2 hours from the truck, evening coming on, and no clutch. Willow Creek by unoh7, on Flickr Amazingly, after 9 years of backcountry, and many engine issues, water pumps, O-rings, gears, it has never actually totally died. I've always been able to limp back, white oil or whatever, just nursing it. On this ride I was thinking: this thing is running great for 8 rides! Dollarhide by unoh7, on Flickr I just hope that screw is still in one piece

Shortly after I bought my 06 txt 300 I got the "solid clutch". You pull a little ways and get a hard stop. I called Dale, the importer and he instructed me the screw had come loose (the special hollow one in the center of the clutch) and instead of tightening, I should pull it out altogether. He was adamant there was no downside to this. So I did and never had a problem for years. Then the motor was worked on and Adrian found the screw gone and replaced it. Last night I was way out and bang: hard clutch. Totally solid about 1/4 in. You can hear the hard stop on the screw inside the cover. I had to ride for several hours with no clutch. Can't I just throw that bloody screw out? TXT Pro by unoh7, on Flickr

OK I'm back in action after some drama. Bearings above are not the usual. No more tiny tips one the end of the needles. And consequently nothing holds the needles in place except that plastic insert. Talked to several knowledgeable people, and all were at a loss as to the plastic insert. So I learned the hard way: Drift against the plastic. Don't remove it till the last possible moment. Since the needles are now totally loose you can imagine.....PITA to install in the swingarm. Tophat inserts must go in very slowly. May take multiple tries to retrieve various errant needles. Luckily I had some practice, as I also went to lube the dog bones and one had the tips shorn off and out came those needles. At first I thought I'd wait for another bearing, and I ordered the HK1520-2RS. But riding weather is good.. I cleaned out the loose tips and put the needles back, and the bearing seemed smooth. BTW for USA best source is Impact Bearing 1-800-962-4180. They were much cheaper for the same INA bearing and sourced a close supplier to me. They promise short delivery for reasonable rate. I scratch my head as to the logic behind the OEM choice of bearings for this task. L1038787 by unoh7, on Flickr

Great replies everyone thank you. I am replacing only the swingarm set, not the dog bones. Parts just arrived: Untitled by unoh7, on Flickr These are the OEM; note plastic insert. Looks like they are holding those needles in place. They come in from the side with numbers and must come out that way i think. I was advised to drift against the numbered side, but wonder if I will end up with some extra plastic in the swing arm. What's the best tactic here? Also should I install bearing first then lube? Sorry for silly questions PS also best tactic to relube the dog bones? Avoiding needles everywhere?

I know this is a perpetual subject, and I've been reading up: Just discovered my swingarm linkage bearings on my 06 TXT pro are hammered. My dog bones are fine. Is there a source to replace the need bearings with bushings? If not, is is hard to install the new bearings with the swingarm on the bike? TY so much guys

re: "Sorry to be negative, but regarding the last post, this is meant to be a Trials forum and little of these backcountry bikes has anything to do with the sport of observed trials." Sorry,I thought this was a technical forum on Gas Gas trials bikes. I did not know there were rules about what members choose to do with them. Wait Here by unoh7, on Flickr Jeez, what am i thinking? Who would want a 300 pro around here: Steep Slope at Sundown by unoh7, on Flickr I think it's this sort of cliquey, in the box mentality, which makes it hard to sell many bikes.

Hilarious and highly informative video

No way, Mopeds are different. 50cc or something. That's the whole issue. We need a simple, light 500cc 4T that's bullet proof. I think you need that displacement to get it to run really well down in the super low RPMs, and quiet, but of course it's going to give quite a thump! So that would also need to be addressed in some way. Electric would be ideal but we are not there yet. Range issues are the biggest. But here, we have some humugous downhills (i go through 4 sets of rear brake pads in a busy season.), and that braking could be turned over to a charger which could refresh batteries. Same charger should have a hand crank.....just in case LOL Look at F1 you see all the new tech possibilities, but many moto folks are very conservative and don't like change. Example one: motocross. Weight minimum!!!!! Are you friggin kidding me? DeCoster's bike in the 70s was lighter than Dungee's bike in 15. AMA BS. The rule should simply be: you must be able to buy it. Anyway there is a huge untapped niche in ultralight off-road. Everyone wants one, but none exist. Except the half baked LOL My other backcountry rig, an 07 250sx with everything changed for single track except tranny and it could use another gear, bad. Weighs 25 lbs less than all my friends new KTMs, but despite plate, it's not technically legal, especially a new one Danger Will Robinson by unoh7, on Flickr Trials Front is Tubliss, with 8 lbs, and that is a revelation. But even after 8 hard seasons she has some inner beauty: Ready for Action by unoh7, on Flickr

I have an 06 pro and a KTM SX 250, both heavily modifed for long range single track in the Idaho Mountains. I've been through many parts on the GG, but she never quit and left me "out there"....yet LOL. Anyway we have many many MTN bikers here and the lust after my GG when they see it. I think that's a big market nobody taps. We all know the KTM freeride is one fat puppy compared to a pro. But a 160 LB backcountry bike with good power and trials handling, that would meet USA street specs......such a machine would be a huge success. The Mtbers are coming from the other direction, mounting 50cc or something like that in a light frame, but they are pretty silly again compared to a 300 pro. Anyway, sad to see GG is such a mess, but mine is up and going again, and I doubt I will ever sell it

TY guys. She fired first kick after the motor had been out for months, and I had not run her in 2 years. Whew!! Feels like my best GF just came home after a 10 year trip LOL

Yes it says black/white, but I think it's the blue/white which goes to coil. My kill switch is already wired direct from CDI. That leaves one unattended wire leaving the coil. Shown on right in my original.

TY so much for replies. That diagram is for an 02, but mine is 06, supposedly different. But maybe it's this one:

Sry for the idiot post. Putting my 06 TXT 300 back together after a long down spell. I did take pics when I pulled the wires, but I guess I missed these. Txt pro 06 by unoh7, on Flickr Note one unattached wire coming from coil with round female receptacle, and one coming from CDI with rectangluar female receptacle (on left). I have pulled all my lights, so one or both may be superfluous, but before I try firing it up I want to check. Any advice apreciated. Here is the diagram, but I can't relate

Replaced the o-ring, fired it up, and it spit water into the crankcase in short order. Pulled the water pump, and the seal was blown almost inside out. So, for those interested, when your oil goes white, change the water pump seal as well as the o-rings. The shafts wear over time, and hence the "kit", but in my case the shaft is new, so the seal should be enough. On my last "kit", the small pin was quite loose, and it was tricky to get it to stay "in" when remounting the pump. Is this normal, and could it get loose?

I have my fan on a switch, and accidentally turned it off long enough last night on a big ride in the mountains to do a proper GG overheat IE water in oil. My understanding is that, dueing one of these episodes, the o-ring goes and the piston then pressurizes the cooling system and blows water past the seal. In this case, I have recently done the water pump kit, including the seal. Obviously I need to replace the o-ring ( i keep spares), but I wonder if I should expect the month old water pump seal to be OK after such abuse? TY so much for advice 2006 txt pro 300

Thanks so much, the top is pretty fresh, I suspected it was normal, thought i'd chk

Hi guys I was changing out my fan and orings, and water pump on my backcountry 300 pro, which I've shown pictures of here in the past. With the head off. I was cleaning the top of the piston and cylinder top face, when i noticed: my piston (not that old) has a tiny bit of play on a circular axis. Not up and down, not side to side. I never really have handled the piston in the cylinder like this==with this particular motion, so I am not sure if it may be normal or an indication of a rod bearing issue. TY in advance

TY so much for these replies: sent it of to Adrian and now on way back. He had to grind off lower bearing. Did my bones at the same time--bushings and bearings. some idaho scenery: That's nature's Ossa

I new there was something I forgot to grease My steering suddenly was binding--on and off. Pulled the steering head and lower bearing is damaged. 2006 TXT 300 pro How hard is it to get that thing off and replace? TY sirs

The upper chain guide is not well designed. If you go flat, your tire wears against it exposing one sharp screw end, which then cuts right into your expensive sidewall. Since slow leaks are not uncommon after a tire change, this is a very stupid design. I know all this the hard way as too scrutineers.....well it's pretty much darwin rules around here

TY for all replies Just to update. After psiton inspection for cracks, I rode another 10-20 hours with loud tick, Just now I finally changed the piston. Silence. yaahooo!! Its peak riding seaon now and we have been out a bit

TY so much for suggestion--I better pull off side cover and check that too. It does seem to come from cylinder area, but that's close. My gear oil has been clean w/ no big things on the magnet. The sound used to come and go a bit--most pronounced cold, but now seems to hang all the time. Now I must remember to hold in the top hat so I don't have to rebleed. I better chk my brake fluids too, hehe. ON the way down from here a few weeks ago I had my first front brake fade---back of course can do it pretty easy getting hot, but this was the first time my front ever failed. TY much for replies.

I've had the bike since new. Cylinder has been recoated and matched to current piston and now has a season on it. I know the normal noises and my buddy has an 04 pro for comparison---. Metallic clicking from cylinder area--sounds like a diesel. Very distinct--sharper than the "clutch noise", varies perfectly with rpm. You don't hear it reving up, but you do on decel. But it may be drowned out reving. Took off head to deal with o-ring and inspected. Cylinder seems perfect--esp compared to what it was like when I had it re-done (still ran then). Jetting has never changed since new---using Dale hi-alt del orto jets. Seems to run great. But I'd hate to have it come apart here: How can I test my bearings? all advice apreciated Was rumaging around looking for my wossner piston box to see what size I had--and came accross my stock head. I think I will pull off the raga head and see if noise changes