Sticking it in top gear is just dangerous, I tried it, luckily there was snow on the ground so she didn't grip, but it just span the back tyre flat out, brakes wouldn't stop it at full chat.
Water pump shaft - the Rev3's have a nylon drive gear with a metal shaft, the two are held together by a pin that slides through a hole in the base of the shaft and locates in a recess in the back of the drive gear. The shaft comes through the inner case, impeller goes on, then circlip goes on to hold it all in place. So sounds likely that the circlip has come off for some reason, this would allow the shaft to go back through the inner case slightly, pin to drop out, and probably munch the nylon drive gear - hence it doesn't spin a full 360° any more.
So, I would suspect seal was actually OK, but movement of the shaft has let the oil in, as it's going to be apart, replace the seal as it will need doing sooner or later anyway.
You'll need: Nylon drive gear, new pin, seals, circlip, 'O' rings and gaskets for inner case & water pump housing.
Suspect cases will have lots of little bits of white nylon from the drive gear in there so try and get all that out while it's apart.
my Techno rear brake is playing up, was fine, then just locked on one day, bled it, and ever since can't get any pedal at all, not working with a sh*t. No leaks visible either, think it may be cylinder?
I suffered carb icing on my bike once in the snow (96' Techno 250), was probably round about freezing or just above, snow just starting to thaw a bit, was quite a close/damp day, a lot of moisture in the air. It iced and stuck open at full throttle, not nice at all, thought it was going to kill itself.
I've said this loads - use mountain biking gear, trousers, jackets, gloves etc, similar duty use and movement needed, generally cheaper than trials specific stuff, less gawdy/lycra and much more freely available.
Also, if you know the make of bike you're going to look at do some research on the internet first and identify which year had which colour plastics & decals, different forks etc etc
Be careful with TOR (eBay link), I tried to buy some footrest hangers off him, but every time I rang he said he had 'loads of good uns', but was always just leaving, going on holiday, not able to take a payment etc, gave up in the end.
I rang the guy before, just about some footpeg brackets, but everytime I rang he said he's got loads, all straight, but was always just going out on holiday etc, said ring back, gave up, baulchy git.
Another vote for Halfords Professional, simply cannot be beaten for value for money. I've had the 120 piece set for quite a few years, never broken anything through normal use, one thing I did (extension bar with pin type locking mechanism) through abuse they replaced without receipt. Quite often they do an offer on that set for £100.
I normally chuck my Halfords set, along with a set of screwdrivers, pliers and a hammer in the car and you can fix most fixable in the field things.
My rear brake was fine last time I rode, then got the bike out the other day, rear brake stuck on, couldn't free it, so bled some fluid out, but now got no brake at all, and I've had fluid coming out of the caliper bleed nipple with no bubbles at all in it, for quite some time, brilliant. Think I'll try the above.
Have a bottle of brake fluid, an empty catch bottle, clear tube to send excess fluid to the catch bottle, & 8mm spanner ready
Adjust the brake leaver so there is a little clearance to the master cylinder piston. Really important.
Remove the fluid reservoir cap/lid.
Carefully force the pistons back into the calliper body and jam some wood between 'em to keep them still.
Remove the pads - pads become useless with a drop of brake fluid on 'em
Hang the caliper so the bleed nipple is pointing up hill.
A - Undo the bleed nipple while applying a little pressure to the brake lever...... (put the tube over the nipple to take the excess fluid away)
B - Close the bleed nipple and release the brake lever and check the reservoir is full
Repeat A B A B A B A B A B A B A B A B quite quickly until air bubbles stop coming out of the bleed tube.
With the Beta be prepared to do this for 10 minutes or more so keep recycling the fluid.
Nip up the bleed nipple put your pads back in a try it out.
if that doesn't work (it does every time for me) you may need a master cylinder rebuild kit from the Beta parts man.
Wash up with a water rinse.
Good luck.
Sorry to drag this old thread up, but I thought it was better than starting a fresh, one question I have is, what do you mean by "Adjust the brake leaver so there is a little clearance to the master cylinder piston. Really important."?
I've just done a bit of work to my Techno, and now just giving it a few short test rides etc. to make sure all is OK.
I replaced the coolant up to 'min' level on the resevoir, tried to pump as much through as possible by pumping the bottom hose by hand and bleeding some out at the pump, then ran it up to temperature, waited for fan to kick in and topped it back up, all seems OK, then next time I went to the bike when cold there's nothing showing on the tank, so did same again, all seemed OK, stopped bike. Then 1/2 hour later looked and nothing showing in tank again.
So, 2 questions:
1: How much coolant should it take?
2: Why does it keep disappearing from the tank?
I've just done water pump seal, and changed g/box oil since, so it's not going in there.
Don't be too specific when searching on eBay, and don't go into the categories, people don't always list things properly.
I suggest just searching 'Yamaha TY' TY175' 'TY250' etc. in the general search box, then list items by highest price first, and you don't get all the crap up then.
Throttle Stuck Wide Open
in General Trials Talk
Posted
My carb iced up last year & throttle stuck wide open, kill switch didn't do a thing................