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06 Crack...


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#61 copemech

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Posted 21 November 2010 - 04:32 AM

View Posttrialsnutterman, on 20 November 2010 - 02:14 PM, said:

I don't really like pointing this out but do you realise you've missed a small crack in the top right when looking from the back.

I doubt he has missed this. I think it is just a separation in the original pressing of the part flange and has likely been left alone. Non issue. Think the stress are being concentrated in the lower area with push/pull on the steering head. :rolleyes:
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#62 JohnnyDudeUK

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Posted 21 November 2010 - 06:39 PM

Hi all,

Just thinking about this pivot bolt length issue and relating it back to my MX bike. As far as I can see the threaded portion on my MX bike extends into the hole on the side of the frame and so allows the tightening of the pivot bolt to pull the two side together to take up any clearance on the swing-arm and spacers. This is what the original bolt was doing as It looked to have enough engagement to me.

What popped into my mind was, if the swing-arm inner races and spacers were not long enough, then the frame would need to be pulled together too much and this in itself would put undue stress on the side frame rails and this might be worse than a short bolt.

Just my musings....

John
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John (Sherco ST290, Yamaha YZ250)

#63 copemech

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Posted 22 November 2010 - 03:47 AM

The torque spec on the swingarm shaft is 50Nm or roughly 37 lb/ft.

Try as you like, but good luck achieving that with an 8mm bolt in ali! :rolleyes:
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#64 firedfromthecircus

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Posted 30 November 2010 - 06:18 PM

Just been reading this with interest as I am due to collect an '06 when the weather clears. :thumbup:

Has anyone thought about brazing or braze welding this repair? Braze the crack then perhaps braze a gusset over the weak area. This would reduce the chance of heat weakening the surrounding area yet should still give a strong repair.
Any thoughts on this?

#65 EastCoastHopper

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Posted 10 December 2010 - 08:01 PM

It's been 2 months and my weld is still holding good. It was about 2 inches long, right above the radiator on the left side, of course. (2006 2.9 trial)
I had a really good guy run a bead over the crack. I took off the radiator, coil, and all the wires and stuff in the neck area, but that's it. Fortunately, it still runs!

Whoever mentioned powder-coating: I powder-coated my 96 Gaser and it all rubbed off near the pegs and anyplace my boots rubbed against it. Not nearly as strong as I thought it would be. It also came off anyplace where it hit a rock. I won't do that again.

Stress? I got stress! Ha ha. My skid-plate is so mashed in that there are pieces missing on the edges, the sides look like an old broad axe that was chopping rocks. The rear bolts near the pegs are bent in so much, I can't get a wrench between the frame, near swing-arm tube, and the tab where the bolts go. I'm going to have to cut off the bolts to get it out and bend everything back into place. BUT, no cracks anyplace in the area that I can find. I seriously doubt the upper frame crack is in any way effected by stress down below. I thing it is simply poor design and/or too light of a material. There is a heck of a lot of force between the forks and the neck of the frame. I've pitched my bike completely over my head several times, and sometimes it lands on the front wheel. That should just about break it off!

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#66 EastCoastHopper

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Posted 10 December 2010 - 08:20 PM

View PostNeo, on 04 September 2010 - 10:34 AM, said:

And it doesn't crack if it's ridden with a certain level of respect....You can bash'em hard OK....but you just can't smash'em hard :D

I beat the heck out of it! It's the only way to go. How am I ever going to become a better rider if I don't try things that I can't do and smash stuff in the process? Anyway, I'm just having fun, that's what it's all about.

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