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Hylomar/coolant Drain Plug/de-coke Middle Box.


francley40
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Wonder if Trials Central readers can help me, please.

Bike in question is a Gas Gas TXT Pro 250 03.

Hylomar:

I'm fitting a head spacer and need to coat the spacer with 'a thin and even' coat of Hylomar.

Problem is I can't coat the whole area before the stuff dries as it goes off so quickly.

I'm ending up with a lumpy, uneven coverage.

Coolant Drain Plug:

Usual problem I guess: the plug has tightened up over time and the Allen key hole has rounded off.

I've tried cutting a slot in it, to use a flat bladed screwdriver, but this hasn't worked.

Any idea how to get it out so I can fit a new one?

Exhaust Middle Box.

Despite repacking the final silencer my bike is more noisy than most Pro's.

The middle box is clogged with the usual black gunge, which could explain it.

Any suggestions as to how to clear it?

Can't say I fancy using heat, so would caustic soda do it?

I think this box is steel so the caustic soda/alloy issue doesn't apply.

Many thanks, in advance, for any help.

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Many years ago I was highly delighted at how Hylomar solved recurring head gasket leakage on a four stroke. Until I read an article about how excess squeezed out in to the bore breaks off as hard flakes and can eventually block the oil filter (there was a photo to show the blockage on the bike that had died as a result) or block an oilway. On checking my filter I found some bits and stopped using it.

Clearly you won't get this problem with a gasser but there may be potential to damage the bore or get in to the coolant system. You may want to consider an alternative. It's surprising how ordinary silicon seal can survive where it really shouldn't, I've used it on exhaust joints before now. I believe high temp silicon is available for repairing ovens.

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Hylomar:

I'm fitting a head spacer and need to coat the spacer with 'a thin and even' coat of Hylomar.

Problem is I can't coat the whole area before the stuff dries as it goes off so quickly.

I'm ending up with a lumpy, uneven coverage.

>>Sometimes a thin piece of flexible plastic, like a credit card, can be used to spread it evenly

and quickly.

Coolant Drain Plug:

Usual problem I guess: the plug has tightened up over time and the Allen key hole has rounded off.

I've tried cutting a slot in it, to use a flat bladed screwdriver, but this hasn't worked.

Any idea how to get it out so I can fit a new one?

>>Use a Torx bit that is just slightly over the size of the hole (maybe a T-20? a T-15 works for

a 3mm Allen hole and I think the plug is a 4mm), tap it lightly in and use a socket wrench to

back it out. The new and updated plugs (they are also the end bushing for the impellor shaft)

have a Torx bit hole.

Exhaust Middle Box.

Despite repacking the final silencer my bike is more noisy than most Pro's.

The middle box is clogged with the usual black gunge, which could explain it.

Any suggestions as to how to clear it?

Can't say I fancy using heat, so would caustic soda do it?

I think this box is steel so the caustic soda/alloy issue doesn't apply.

>>A solvent tank is probably the safe way to clean the gunge out. If you can get a wire bottle

brush, that will clean out the carbon from the perforated tube after the solvent has dried.

Jon

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Steel wire bottle brushes for cleaning the perforated tubes in exhausts can be obtained from The Anvil Tool Company in Ipswich.

Paste the following link into your browser for details of the brushes.

http://www.anvil-trading.com/ourstore/cat_...er-Brushes.html

Measure the inside diameter of your perforated tube and order a brush the same size or slightly smaller. Do not buy a brush larger than you need, it might go in but it will be an almighty struggle to get out. I found this out for myself and now own two different sized brushes.

The brushes I received from Anvil are good quality, reasonably priced and were despatched quickly.

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Instructions for 'Blue Hylomar' is to apply an even film to both surfaces to be sealed, then allow solvent to dry before assembley.

Note! you should only apply it to the top face of the Cylinder and the underside of the spacer, The O'rings will seal against the top side of the spacer!

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