24 replies to this topic

[Dixie]

I have writen about this allready on another page

RE500s hot start mod on the sherco 320 4t has absolutly transformed the
hot start issues with my bike

for no apparent reason my bike would refuse to start ,sometimes taking 20+ kicks

now i still try and start as normal but you can tell if it is having a funny 5 mins

lift the hot start open the throttle a little and one kick to clear next kick starts

i have even turned it upside down when really hot let the motor stall and it still starts

if you have not done it do it NOW

[AtomAnt]

Mine starts ok when its hot without the mod.. but is a bitch to start when its cold.. what do you do to start it when its cold?

Oh and by the way, I wouldnt recommend anyone buying an 05 model of this bike until this problem is sorted.. I even heard that the 4T at Hawkstone had problems starting

[Dixie]

Hello W,M

mine never needed choke even when really cold,i posted the question ages ago.

It seems they are all a bit different,i just kick it a few times and it is away,
But when hot it was without reason,one day good one day bad.

have you tried not using choke? does it flood when cold (mine did every time with the choke on)

After doing the mod (20 mins max) it has made me love it again.

Its still to pokey though,but i no longer want to burn it.

[AtomAnt]

When i start it in my garage, i turn on the choke , give it one kick, turn off the choke and kick it and it starts .. I can do this every night after work and it will start every time.. I took it to the venue our trial will be this weekend and it wouldnt start
Also, the venue is quite big so when i got it going, after i had been riding it a while, I gave it a blast in 5th flat out for about 20 secs and oil p****d out the breather and splattered everything. smoke was billowing from it coz it went all over the exhaust. looked like something out of a carry on film!

When riding it I love it to bits.. but these little niggly things are starting to p*** me right off

[Dixie]

WM

did you turn the fuel off before transport,i have had a similar one but only at a practice ground, it had flooded the air box

I think it is a love hate relationship.

another thing i do now is take a spare filter to events . if it dusty even that effects starting.

try taking out the choke jet and blanking the hole it really works

[Howard Wallace]

Webmonkey,
The oil out the breather is because there`s too much oil in it. You definately have to remove the 6mm screw under the countershaft sprocket as per the 2T, and an extra couple of hundred mill comes out, even after you`ve taken out the filter, which is right next to it.

Edited by Andy, 06 August 2005 - 10:47 AM.

[Howard Wallace]

I`ve had the same thing happen, due to assuming all the oil comes out when you remove the filter ,and lean the bike over. Not so, there`s still a couple of hundred mill left in ,and that comes out the 6mm drain bolt ,as per the 2T.

[AtomAnt]

Howard Wallace, on Aug 5 2005, 12:06 AM, said:

Webmonkey,
                  The oil out the breather is because there`s too much oil in it.

when the bike is on level ground and been stopped for 10 mins or so, the eye glass is showing the oil at the correct level? Im assuming that because i was riding the bike flat out, the oil was being thrown into the camshaft compartment by the chain at such a rate of knots that it pressurised and came out the breather? No problem when running at low speeds. ?

[AtomAnt]

Dixie, on Aug 4 2005, 09:57 PM, said:

did you turn the fuel off before transport,i have had a similar one but only at a practice ground, it had flooded the air box 

You are onto something here I noticed a flooded airbox when i got it home and I didnt turn off the fuel Tap. That would explain why i can start it ok in the garage as the thing hasnt moved from one day to the next.!!

thanks for that advice

[AtomAnt]

Dixie, That fuel in the airbox thing has cracked it
I took the bike down to work with the fuel off.. took it off the trailer and started it ok

Well happy.

Thanks again !

[Dixie]

WM

glad it helped,i am really trying to get the four banger sorted and these forums have really helped

Ishy if you read this keep helping and ignore the pilloks

re500 saved me from blowing my 4t up

KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK

I ride bikes every day and have never driven a car and ime over 40

it never ceases to amaze me how bikers try and devide them selfs

if i ride my harley people wave if i ride my scooter i am invisible

I have more respect for the guy that rides his mz to work every day than the weekend 1000 rider but i still wave at them and would stop if they needed help would it go the oyher way,probably not .

[Big John]

Sorry guys, but I can't find the hot start mod referred to at the start of this thread where is it?

Cheers...

Big John

PS - remember there has never been a "perfect" trials bike made - ever!

[The artist formerly known as Ishy]

Well at least you know plenty of oil is getting to the top end, being the breather tube is right in the top of the rocker cover.

I noticed when you change the oil 700cc in the main filler and 100cc in the other, it just measures spot on the red line in the sight glass, then when you start it and let it run a while on tick over the level will go down, due to the oil getting up to the top end, stop the motor and it drains down after a minute or two to measure spot on the line again, make sure you check the oil level cold or at least give it a few minutes to drain back down before checking against the level marker.


One of the biggest problems with the bike at the moment is information, and I suspect more of you are having problems with the first batch of bikes than the later production bikes over 00100.

Another thing is what is normal operation for the bike and what isn't, to tell the truth I have not really had any problems.

My advice to anyone getting one new, is don't take the top end off, to check the clearance unless you really know what you are doing, let your dealer do it, in fact make a deal with them to do the initial valve check for free if you buy one, no one seems to have had to adjust the shims after five hours anyway, Howard said he was a thou off on one but that could of even been a thou off to start with.

We are finding it hard to source the correct plug, but a bosch equivalent is on it's way from RYP, I'll post the number when I get it, the correct gapping of plug at 0.6mm is important and does help starting.

Do you have the parts download and service tip download WM, why don't you start a closed topic on the 3.2 and post both on there for quick reference and any other good information that you think would benifit owners could be copied and pasted into the topic by you.

[Howard Wallace]

Webmonkey,
Had a customers 4t fill the air box aswell ,when fuel was left on. This can only be due to a faulty float needle, which seems to be a random problem on some.or if the overflow tube that links the two drain ports, is above the rubber inlet manifold, or blocked. Noticed Paxau is doing PWK`s. Might be worth a chat.

Ishy, we can get the same range plug here ,but only with the solid tip. So it`s either change the plug cap or machine down the tip and put a 4mm thread on. Did the latter ,while waiting for order from factory.

Edited by Howard Wallace, 05 August 2005 - 11:00 PM.

[AtomAnt]

What i have done since yesterday is before i loaded the bike up to take it home, I ran it for about 20 secs with the tap off. Loaded it up, left it for about an hour or so, drove home, took the bike off, turned on the tap and tried to start it like I said before and started no problems

So the fix is really to make sure the tap is turned off when transporting it! Seems like good practice anyway

Thanks for your help, well appreciated

In relation to the carb, I noticed the 4T at Hawkstone had a Kehin carb fitted with upgraded needles and jets (the rider told me but didnt say what they were).. But there was a time when he went to start it and couldnt and a few other peeps had a go and couldnt either So im not 100% convinced changing the carb will help too much .