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Diy 9V Easy-Start Mod


tsiklonaut
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It's for the earlier OSSA fuel-injected models that tend to be hard to start. Since the original thread is 24 pages and very hard to follow and confusing OSSAs own easy-start mod with various DIY mods or tweaks, here I'll put down a simple DIY mod into a single thread:

 

You need:

 

- 9V battery

- 9V battery holder or connector

- switch (or even better if a Yamaha-type kill-switch)

- little bit of light wiring (some 5-10 inches total or a little more if you route to handlebar killswitch)

- some longer straps to fix the battery (and for the switch if you don't use kill-switch)

 

And a mandatory very important note to any DIY mod: DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK! (and may I point out it's well worth the risk if you're tired of too much kickstarting the bastid!)

 

For those who like to be 100% sure, see the schematic here (courtesy of ric h).

 

I salvaged my 9V battery connector from an old smoke-detector ment for rubbish bin - zero cost. If not, buy a random 9V holder (couple of bucks).

 

1) Remove the front plastic plate, behind you see the big capacitor with two wires going in.

 

2) Connect (best if solder all the following connections, this lasts longer and much better contact) the red wire from 9V battery holder to the red wire from the capacitor.

 

3) Connect the black wire from the 9V battery holder to the random side of the switch

 

4) Connect a little wire from switch (the other contact of the two on the switch) and leave the other side open

 

 

_SDI1613_s.jpg

 

_SDI1614_s.jpg

 

 

5) Fix everything down with straps and connect the open wire to random place of the bike's frame (I just put it between one of the 3 bolts holding the front plastic plate)

 

 

_SDI1615_s.jpg

 

_SDI1616_s.jpg

 

 

Yer done!

 

(->) Activate the switch only when you need to kickstart it, once started switch back (<-)

 

Since I don't have a kill switch available I used the simple switch, but I'd highly recommend using the kill-type of switch. This will make sure you don't forgot to switch back after the bike has started. With kill-type switch you just hold it down while kickstarting and let it go once started.

 

I have 2013 model with the high compression head and it's hard and tiresome to kick it even nominally. Before it was around 10 kicks at least when cold (or even sometimes 20 on a very bad day!), some 3-5 when hot.

 

After this mod: 1-2 kicks cold, 1 kick warm! Starts like a dream now and even doesn't need that exceptionally sharp-kick, just a nice average kick will do the trick!

 

My OSSA TR280i definitely got from being a very good bike to excellent after this mod. This relatively hard-to-start feature was by far the most negative thing about this bike and this mod took it another level literally.

 

This mod should work on all OSSA fuel injected bikes: TR125i, TR250i, TR280i, TR300i & Explorer since they all use the very same EFI system as far as I know.

 

Hope this helps,

Margus

Edited by tsiklonaut
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What happens if you dont shut it off?

 

Good question!

 

Once started, it feeds 12V onto the battery contacts and after that it's a random guess - 12V isn't too much over the nominal 9V so it depends how good the battery is built, after some time some batteries may smoothly melt-through (push out some little liquid green cr*p and just disconnect themselves from the system), some batterys can expand or even explode and worst case it may even start a fire (I've done this when I was young bastid myself, albeit it needs higher voltage than just 12V ;) ).

 

Hence I highly recommend the kill-switch type to avoid this "I forgot" problem alltogether. :)

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Very similar to the original Ossa factory mod for the early bikes, only theirs was a cluster of AA batteries. Below is the 'hand made' Works diagram. It did transform the starting. Switched on at start of play (bog standard switch) and left on until the end of the event. One small characteristic when switched on, there was a small fizzing sound for a couple of seconds which I took to be the pump charging the injector. Also if the tank was empty there was a distinctly different sound. Crude but effective.

 

 

 

post-2188-0-18397600-1452971121_thumb.png

post-2188-0-71302300-1452971144_thumb.jpg

Edited by micm
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It's a much more complicated schematic though. OSSAs battery pack (8 x 1.5 volt AAs) makes 12V then. With 9V there's no fuel-pump noise when you activate it, hence I think 9V just helps to support the circuitry (and capacitor) to have just enough start-voltage to improve the firing up engine. 12V battery pack is proabaly is even better support and hence it even starts up the fuel pump, but this huge battery pack weights a lot too I reckon vs a small lightweight 9V battery.

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Wowza, found one in local web-shop, costs just 1-2 EUR. That's very good price if it lasts at least couple of dozen starts, my only big question is how long they'll last.

 

Looks like a test might be in order: I'll pop A23 in when I can find a holder for this size.

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Very similar to the original Ossa factory mod for the early bikes, only theirs was a cluster of AA batteries. Below is the 'hand made' Works diagram. It did transform the starting. Switched on at start of play (bog standard switch) and left on until the end of the event. One small characteristic when switched on, there was a small fizzing sound for a couple of seconds which I took to be the pump charging the injector. Also if the tank was empty there was a distinctly different sound. Crude but effective.

Necessity is the mother of invention

In 20 years time you Ossa boys will laugh - 'You'll never guess what we had to rig up to start our bikes'

Good on you ! . I wouldn't even start to worry about spares . Your combined minds (seriously) here could overcome almost anything.

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