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I got into trialing by buying the cheapest TXT I could get my hands on without any major issues that is. And one of the niggling areas were the overall maintenance, so as predicted when I went to repair it the bleed screw was rung, and the allen key bolt holding on the brembo brakes to the bracket too. Took some shifting to get those two out. But damage had been done whilst trying to avoid freeing up the bleed screw. Theres a lesson there. Anyways, will keep that in mind about the bleeding when I find a sturdy hose to replace the prior one that sprang a leak I think all too easily. Was looking at a cheap and cheerful one that has a needle insert connector instead of a banjo end, was thinking this just might work, as long as its M10 that is. Ta.
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Any suggestions on a replacement to the OEM rear brake hose? Last week my rear pads overheated and melted the rear hydraulic hose on my TXT 249 2000. Had a few old braided cables knocking about, but nothing that was quite perfect.Would prefer to get a more resilient hose next time, but it needs to be slim to navigate through the swingarm. Let me know where you´d suggest to find this please, anyone. Much thanks, Al.
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Thanks for the speedy response. Wow, never seen its like before, looks like it works via magnet or infra red, anyways thanks.
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My rear brake pistons must have been sticking, so I headed home as direct as I could; when I got there pads were smoking. Anyway, long story short, rear brake hose melted and leaking a little. Okay so I´ll change the hose. Easy to say, the hose is navigated through the swing arm, and I have a Reenvio Hall (BT280034050) sensor making it a bitch to slide out. Was so close to just cutting of this sensor cable, but to be honest I´ve never come across this type of sensor before, so I thought I´d better ask first. Any ideas if useful, its clearly electrical, and is situated near the rear brake disc. Help idle speed, lights, timing, I googled it but didn´t get a satisfactory response. Cheers if you know p.s. whilst here, I removed my airbox and stuck on a solitary pod air filter, seems to go well. Any viewpoint on this?
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Cheers for all your input Sting32, I´ve had a lot of experience with carbs in the past, were I was used to blocked emulsion tubes, and floats jamming the fuel valve open, but this has beat me. Maybe I am starting to chase my tail. However at least I´ve ruled out certain components and that is a positive step forward. Having read other forum posts on idling, and garbelled throttle action at high revs I am starting to consider two things. Either the piston rings are badly worn and creating poor vacuum, and therefore weak intake of fuel/air mix, or maybe the reid valves are damaged hindering the complete fuel intake cycle. I think its one of these, so will check the valve first (though I´m new to reid valves). What should I be looking out for? and I assume its an easy swap for a new one. My bike is the 2000 model TXT, just before the PRO models incorporation. Does everything I want, but believe I should expect more from the motor, and when I have a safe excess of money in the bank would love to try a newer model (though I am an avid fan of the second hand by nature). Cheers for your advice.
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Right, have tweeked as many elements as I can and still no real joy. I have repositioned the needle, checked/cleaned all jets, cleaned or removed the air filter, adjusted the fuel screw at different points and still the engine sounds like it slowly returns to idle, not on/off like the strimmer mentioned earlier. Should I start considering piston rings? the regulator has been changed as that was a dudd, but made no difference to engine revolutions, or could the exhaust result in some form of hinderance to a return to idle speed. Having said all this, I have never heard another trial bike run in comparison as I´m relatively new to the sport. Ta.
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Hi Chris, Cheers for the reply. My email is my user name here at hotmail.com, couldn´t find the link to e-mail you privately. I´m still trying to iron out a few limitations of the bike at the minute, and the persistant rain at the moment is hampering my ability to tune the bike. When that is done I will try and get out. I have a few nice routes I am practicing on near my home here, and trying to build up my skills. Sounds good though, what is Girona like for Trialing? have you a good area to ride there? Hope to catch you later.
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Hi sting32/jimbob, Been busy with work, but looking forward to getting back in the saddle. So I have raised the cir-clip to the second notch down to see if this deals with the lean conditions that you suggested earlier. Float level seems fine, with no overflow and correct valve function. I was waiting to get the filter but my local supplier is waiting for a delivery of the original filters (the triangle shaped type), so I was considering the ´RQ´ filter they have in stock. I have never heard of this brand, but can I assume its an improvement? anyone use this type? I should also mention that my regulator was defective, but I don´t think this would interfere with engine timing (or does it?). New regulator on order too (it kept shorting bulbs).
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Had a good run out today; on the way back she was behaving very dog-idly (i.e. badly). So before my next run out I thought I better give her a check-up. Long story short fine clay particles were getting past my filter and had crudded up the carb. Problem discovered. However whilst giving the carb a thorough clean I discovered that my D36 needle was in the fourth slot down, and I'm thinking maybe it should be in the 2nd down (as most jetting info suggests). Could this be a reason for slow return to idle? Pretty sure the filter is partly the culprit. Will order a new filter, but plan to place some rubber sheet along the underside of the rear mudguard to prevent other dust build-up in the air intake gap (I think that maybe my second-hand bike was missing this). By the way, thanks Sting32 for your suggestions. I had the altitude problems once on a XTZ750 going over the Pyrenees, I knew immediately why the bike wasn't responding as normal. And I am also a keen collector of older bike projects (GSX1100F, ZXR750, Cagiva Elefant 650, all on the operating tables; they are all stable, could just do with throwing some money at them).
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Just thought I´d get this forum space started by inquiring if there are any locals close to me, near Manresa, that fancy letting a near novice into their ranks or are located near here. I often transport the bike up to Sant Julià de Cerdanyola, closer to the Pyrénées for the ultimate trial runs. Beautiful routes, with a beautiful backdrop. [Només vaig pensar que tindria aquest espai de fòrum començar preguntant si hi ha alguna gent a prop meu, a costat de Manresa, que ve de gust deixar un novici en el su club o es troben al costat de aquí. Sovint el transport de la moto fins a Sant Julià de Cerdanyola, prop dels Pirineus per les execucions de prova maco. Rutes bonic, amb un bell teló de fons.]
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Having nothing to compare it to, but how many seconds should the engine return to idle after giving it a good throttle action? Should it be immediate, or is there a little lag? Mine seems to rev well now after a little tweeking of the fuel screw and idle screw (having previously stripped and cleaned the carbs). But after a quick twist of the wrist from idle it takes about 3 seconds before it returns to full idle revolutions. Is that normal, or what might be the culprit? I´m thinking maybe the engine is a little starved of air, maybe a new filter? Thanks in advance.
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Just watched a video of Wartime soldiers learning the art of ´Rough Riding´. Interesting to watch the group develop with all important training and practice. I was trying to identify the bikes, I assume they are Norton 16Hs. I was considering finding and fixing an old Royal Enfield, before taking the easier option of a Gaser. Options for the future at least, and I´d imagine a different riding skill set. http://www.yfaonline.com/film/dear-sergeant-or-story-rough-riding-motorcycling-course
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I have noticed a lot of European members on this site (inclusive or exclusive of the UK), and it´d be nice to have an outlet to discuss mainland events and part sources. Most Trial riders that I have spoken to here in Spain have a good level of English (and of course we can forgive spelling mistakes), and since this is a useful site I was wondering if there might be a glimmer of a possibility at the very least. I have checked todotrial.com etc etc., and it doesn´t compare (though the future events section is very good). Just my 10 cents, as you say.
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Just caught this thread. Can anyone tell me if the English version has the option to revert to the Spanish audio? can you choose the audio language. The little clips I have watched make it worth a buy, and if nothing else convince the wife that I´m not too old to start this (and let me buy a mini moto for my 2 boys). Looks spot on, or at least until my potential Trialing buddy/guru recovers from a nasty spill..
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Hey at 37, and a newbie, if I can´t take banter (or pithyness) even if its much worse than this from Experienced Trial riders then I have no call to be on a forum asking questions. All replies accepted no matter how ridiculous. And again, with reference to Bou or Raga, they are already both legendary Catalan riders (or Tarrés/Sanz, up there with our Dougie Lampkin). So I have the landscape the greats started on, just need the know-how, and some way to rejuvenate these slightly older bones/TXT parts. I did a great job sorting out my previously ´retired looking´ Gaser, all through advice notched up in this forum. I sorta guessed why the pedal was so long, and its quite unlikely that my extreme riding would even match a hundredth of the Pros, so was thinking maybe I could be more comfortable with a shorter, more comfortable gear shift. My Hopping skills are somewhat dire, but looking forward to cracking on with trying (so your video was useful), the terrain here is just perfect for trying. Even when I walk the dog I am scouting out possible new routes (being lucky enough to have a 200 acre mixed forest landscape literally outside my front door). Ta all.