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  1. Sorry StuEssenhigh, I don't know what was wrong with it. I came to my witt's end with it so sent it to the garage to get done the by pro's. All they said was that they put a new wiring loom in. I'm very curious to know what it was, as far as I can tell only the wire to the cutout switch has been replaced. I've got to drop the engine anyway (oil leek) so I'll have a look then.
  2. :bouncy:Woooooooooooo! Finally got some ride time!!!
  3. Thanks guys, I hope it does come in useful, being new to this myself I would have loved to have found a similar guide. here's the impact wrench i bought off ebay, no hassle what so ever and I am very pleased with it. ebay impact wrench brianl, some people suggest cutting a small groove in the bottom of the flywheel cover to let any water drain out. I've no idea if it works or not, but I've followed this advice myself.
  4. I also bought an impact wrench off ebay, but without any problems, in fact I am very happy with it. Although it is possible to remove the flywheel without an impact wrench, be warned; take care! Mind you, you will most definately need a flywheel puller. visit http://www.glyndavidson.co.uk/hobbies/trials/ for images
  5. lol, how can I if I dont know how to? It seems to me though that this wire can only be for the cut out switch although I could be wrong? When I kick the engine over, the fan turns (with the thermostat bridged), and i also have current going to the CDI so the stator seems to be fine. However, I still had no current arriving at the coil. So just on the off chance, I tried my old CDI, and voila current, but still no spark. Tried a different spark plug, no luck, so this would lead me to believe that the coil is knackered, as is the new CDI? Thanks to those who have sent me the manuals, but they are all for the 2006 model, the wiring is different =(
  6. I've got my new CDI on but still no spark. There is no current arriving at the coil from the CDI Guy at the beta shop said that the loose black wire from the stator is used to earth the CDI, but I can't see how Beta Bodger, I did pm you with my email address, but on the off-chance anybody could me a 2000 wiring diagram sooner, my email address (am I going to regret this?) is glytch_nct@hotmail.com Thanks guys
  7. If it's not broken don't fix it =) In that case leave them both in.
  8. I bought a new stator last week from Lampkins. Cost me
  9. I've got 9.66 Ohms both between the Earth-in and the plug, as well as between the live-in and the plug. Between both the earth-in and live-in there is no resistance. Is that about right, I'm going down to the Beta garage today so I could pick up a coil then if need be? Whilst kicking, I get 4v across the red and black wires from the stator, and an average of 8v across the red and brown.
  10. Long version: Both of these washers will most certainly affect the performance of your clutch. Refer to page 8 of the parts diagram on the beta website. i think the washers your speaking about are numbered 10 and 18. the larger of the two sits between the clutch centre and the clutch basket, where as the smaller sits between the clutch rod and the pressure plate. Again refer to the parts diagram if you are not sure what these are. Hang on, just read your post again, are both washers the same size and from the same place? (Between the clutch rod and pressure plate)? if so, as far as I am aware, there should only be one. This should be between the bearings and the pressure plate. Without it your clutch won't fully disengage. Also, bear in mind in the future, as far as I have previously gathered from this forum, beta's have a history of "sticky" clutches and you should pump the clutch a few times when first starting to get the clutch fluid moving. Short version: Put one of the washers back =)
  11. Doh! Stupid bank holiday, doesn't look like I'll be collecting my CDi today then =S Thanks Stork for sending me the manual but unfortunately it is for the 2006 model and the wiring digram doesnt seem to correspond to what I have. Does anyone have an earlier user manual / wiring diagram they could send me please?
  12. Thanks for all of the positive comments guys (presuming we're all guys). neonsurge... You're right, I sure have learnt a helluva, helluva lot; When I first opened the engine up, my initial reaction was "where's the cam shaft". That got me scratching my head for a few days. XD I'm glad I did open it up though; if anything mechanical goes wrong on the bike in the future, not only will I have the confidence to correct it, but I should also now be able to locate and diagnose the problem myself. Beta Bodger I could think of 101 reasons why you should most definitely give it a go. Especially when there are communities such as this where like-minded enthusiasts are willing to pass on some of there knowledge to us less experienced folk. I've no doubt that I'm not the only one to have made mistakes when first starting out. bilco, I think I can live with your crap sense of humour No doubt I will need it in the days to come; I tried a few things today but without any joy. Unfortunately I don't know anybody else who has a trials bike, yet alone one with a compatible CDI. I've ordered a new one now anyway, so I'm off down to Betws-Y-Coed tomorrow to pick it up. Who knows, tomorrow could be the end of all my bad luck? If you see somebody dancing down the street randomly tomorrow, it probably means I got my bike running again.
  13. Yup, it's the "starter gear". Shouldn't be a hard job, I think the most diffuculty you will have is getting the spring back on? You will most definately need an impact wrench to remove the clutch. Don't apply any force to the clutch basket when trying to remove it, they break easily. The only gasket you should need to replace is the "inner clutch cover gasket"
  14. I agree There's no oil pressure in the casing so I would imagine welding it back together would do the trick. Those lumiweld rods are cheap enough to experiment with as well, although I bought a welder off ebay last week for
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