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Sorry StuEssenhigh, I don't know what was wrong with it. I came to my witt's end with it so sent it to the garage to get done the by pro's. All they said was that they put a new wiring loom in. I'm very curious to know what it was, as far as I can tell only the wire to the cutout switch has been replaced. I've got to drop the engine anyway (oil leek) so I'll have a look then.

:bouncy:Woooooooooooo! Finally got some ride time!!!

Thanks guys, I hope it does come in useful, being new to this myself I would have loved to have found a similar guide. here's the impact wrench i bought off ebay, no hassle what so ever and I am very pleased with it. ebay impact wrench brianl, some people suggest cutting a small groove in the bottom of the flywheel cover to let any water drain out. I've no idea if it works or not, but I've followed this advice myself.

I also bought an impact wrench off ebay, but without any problems, in fact I am very happy with it. Although it is possible to remove the flywheel without an impact wrench, be warned; take care! Mind you, you will most definately need a flywheel puller. visit http://www.glyndavidson.co.uk/hobbies/trials/ for images

lol, how can I if I dont know how to? It seems to me though that this wire can only be for the cut out switch although I could be wrong? When I kick the engine over, the fan turns (with the thermostat bridged), and i also have current going to the CDI so the stator seems to be fine. However, I still had no current arriving at the coil. So just on the off chance, I tried my old CDI, and voila current, but still no spark. Tried a different spark plug, no luck, so this would lead me to believe that the coil is knackered, as is the new CDI? Thanks to those who have sent me the manuals, but they are all for the 2006 model, the wiring is different =(

I've got my new CDI on but still no spark. There is no current arriving at the coil from the CDI Guy at the beta shop said that the loose black wire from the stator is used to earth the CDI, but I can't see how Beta Bodger, I did pm you with my email address, but on the off-chance anybody could me a 2000 wiring diagram sooner, my email address (am I going to regret this?) is glytch_nct@hotmail.com Thanks guys

If it's not broken don't fix it =) In that case leave them both in.

I bought a new stator last week from Lampkins. Cost me

I've got 9.66 Ohms both between the Earth-in and the plug, as well as between the live-in and the plug. Between both the earth-in and live-in there is no resistance. Is that about right, I'm going down to the Beta garage today so I could pick up a coil then if need be? Whilst kicking, I get 4v across the red and black wires from the stator, and an average of 8v across the red and brown.

Long version: Both of these washers will most certainly affect the performance of your clutch. Refer to page 8 of the parts diagram on the beta website. i think the washers your speaking about are numbered 10 and 18. the larger of the two sits between the clutch centre and the clutch basket, where as the smaller sits between the clutch rod and the pressure plate. Again refer to the parts diagram if you are not sure what these are. Hang on, just read your post again, are both washers the same size and from the same place? (Between the clutch rod and pressure plate)? if so, as far as I am aware, there should only be one. This should be between the bearings and the pressure plate. Without it your clutch won't fully disengage. Also, bear in mind in the future, as far as I have previously gathered from this forum, beta's have a history of "sticky" clutches and you should pump the clutch a few times when first starting to get the clutch fluid moving. Short version: Put one of the washers back =)

Doh! Stupid bank holiday, doesn't look like I'll be collecting my CDi today then =S Thanks Stork for sending me the manual but unfortunately it is for the 2006 model and the wiring digram doesnt seem to correspond to what I have. Does anyone have an earlier user manual / wiring diagram they could send me please?

Thanks for all of the positive comments guys (presuming we're all guys). neonsurge... You're right, I sure have learnt a helluva, helluva lot; When I first opened the engine up, my initial reaction was "where's the cam shaft". That got me scratching my head for a few days. XD I'm glad I did open it up though; if anything mechanical goes wrong on the bike in the future, not only will I have the confidence to correct it, but I should also now be able to locate and diagnose the problem myself. Beta Bodger I could think of 101 reasons why you should most definitely give it a go. Especially when there are communities such as this where like-minded enthusiasts are willing to pass on some of there knowledge to us less experienced folk. I've no doubt that I'm not the only one to have made mistakes when first starting out. bilco, I think I can live with your crap sense of humour No doubt I will need it in the days to come; I tried a few things today but without any joy. Unfortunately I don't know anybody else who has a trials bike, yet alone one with a compatible CDI. I've ordered a new one now anyway, so I'm off down to Betws-Y-Coed tomorrow to pick it up. Who knows, tomorrow could be the end of all my bad luck? If you see somebody dancing down the street randomly tomorrow, it probably means I got my bike running again.

Yup, it's the "starter gear". Shouldn't be a hard job, I think the most diffuculty you will have is getting the spring back on? You will most definately need an impact wrench to remove the clutch. Don't apply any force to the clutch basket when trying to remove it, they break easily. The only gasket you should need to replace is the "inner clutch cover gasket"

I agree There's no oil pressure in the casing so I would imagine welding it back together would do the trick. Those lumiweld rods are cheap enough to experiment with as well, although I bought a welder off ebay last week for

Thanks that for that. Although this does present a problem. Where do the cut out switch and fan connect to? I have a multimeter to hand and have checked the continuity of the HT lead but wouldn't know where to start with the other components. Does anybody have a wiring diagram for the 2000 model they could send me please? Just ordered a new CDI, which I think has been the route of all my evils. This has been a very expensive learning curve.

Can anybody tell me please if this should produce a spark?: Also, the wiring diagrams I have are for a later model and appear to be different. Can anybody tell me also what the loose black and yellow wires are coming from the stator? Muchos gracias

Hi all My other post was becoming a little off topic so thought I'd start a new one. Basically, I've got no spark at the plug. It's got a brand spanking stator on it, I've cleaned the plug, checked for splits in the wires, checked the cut out switch, cleaned up the terminals on the coil, so no my next best bet is the CDI right? Wrong? Any other suggestions? Am I correct in thinking it will still run with this connector block disconnected? Obviously, I'll have a hard time stopping the engine, but for the time being I'm just after a spark. Much appreciated Glyn

Thanks Glyph i may have to use your guide in the near future! Do you think it likely to be a gear tooth? I don't think a gear tooth is likely to get through to that side of the crank case. Looks more as if it's off the back of the clutch basket. Check out this pic for comparison: http://www.glyndavidson.co.uk/imageViewer....a-Engine-24.jpg As for the guide, hey you know, I felt as if i had to give something in return.

Ouch, that looks nasty. I think you'd be best off removing the clutch cover to check the extent of the internal damage and maybe then cry? Give lampkin's a ring/email 01535 655970 sales@beta-uk.com for prices.

Reet then =) Had no problem at all starting her up and she purrrrred like a kitten. Left her running for a couple of minutes without any problem. Then put her into gear and gave her a rev to make sure the front sprocket was turning in the right direction then she cut out and wouldn't start again. I've taken the plug out and am not getting a spark. I've just cleaned up the connections to the coil but that's made no difference; still no spark. Any suggestions? Whilst I

=S Bummer. I'm sorry to hear that. But no, I didn't realise this was an issue. Think I'll take the chance now. I don't use it for competition, I've only ever had ten minutes riding out of it. Glyph any chance of a full write up when your done???? I know there will be loads of us wanting to know how to do this if some havent already! Your efforts/mistakes are refreshing that we are not the only ones! Also you may find this interesting....A full engine rebuild http://offwidth.co.uk/bike/crm_rebuild/index.html Although its a crm most of the principles are the same Thanks for that Beta Bodger, and all of the advice you have given me in the past. Full write up is now available at: http://www.glyndavidson.co.uk/hobbies/trials/ If you have any comments on the write up, please feel free and click on a specific image and leave me your comments there. Thanks again for all of your help and advice guys. I've got a new clutch centre and stator arriving today so hopefully I'll get it firing =D If not, expect to hear more from me

Does anybody have the phone number for Lampkins? I kanckered mine when removing the flywheel.

All done =) Engine's back together and waiting to be put back on the bike. I've taken loads of pictures so will do a full write-up soon. One question though, it seems quite stiff when I kick it over, is this normal? bearing in mind there's no oil in it yet. Just need to wait for the stator and clutch centre before i can get her running again. Oh ye, and then perhaps a new CDI =S Thanks for all your help guys. I'm half tempted to ask what oil you all use Lol =)

LMAO, leave me alone, it's my first bike. Thanks again for your advice though Baldilocks, I've just bought a Wizzer off ebay so I'm waiting for that to arrive before I can remove the clutch basket. Does anybody know a good place to price up a clutch plate?