Pre-65 Bikes

my old tiger cub snatching in 3rd gear rest all find so stripped gearbox down found the inner layshaft bush worn so I ordered one I would need ream new bush any body know size of reamer need cant used adjustable as doing in insult I am getting blind bush puller from ebay to old one out

Hi, recommendation for the best C15T Sprocket combination for trials use, no road work mainly tight and twisty stuff standard C15T rear wheel.

Hi all, couple of questions I have a 62 C15T, is there such a beast as a 20inch front Trials tire still being produced? Also it has a very tired monobloc should I refurbish it and buy a new slide, gaskets etc: or bite the bullet and buy a new one for 165quid.

I’m covered in oil having had my clutch primary cover off at least 3 times tonight. The problem I have is that everything is fine until I put oil in the case. Then the kickstart doesn’t engage as if the clutch were pulled in. Drain the oil and everything is ok. I’ve adjusted the clutch as per the manual with the springs 3/8” from the face of the plate. Anyone have any advice please as I can’t stomach getting covered in more oil to get the same result. Is there a dry clutch conversion which would save all this and also give some improvements as I’m sure that when I do get this sorted the clutch is more than likely going to slip. Thanks

HI, I am considering making an alloy oil tank for my C15. It is in a B40 frame (I think) and currently has a bodged together "standard" steel oil tank. I would like to make a narrower tank with space for a re-routed air filter and neater and enclosed electrics. I have searched the forum and found lots of snippets of good advice but wondered if anyone could help me with some "first principles"? What should the minimum advisable capacity be? What is the best return route (can it enter high up or does it have to be a tube running up inside like the standard one?) What diameter tubes should be used at the return junction to cause the right amount of oil to spli…

Afternoon All. So my Cub is all together and a runner. Warmed up and tickover set. Starts lovely on the choke from cold and also when warm. However I’ve got a jetting issue. Here are the symptoms - when I open the throttle gently it runs ok but when I snap the throttle open it muffs badly or stalls. - I think it’s therefore when it comes onto the main jet? - after running it for a bit a shiny new pipe is now a gold colour, so getting hot. Im now about to spend hours researching on the internet, but is someone can point me in the right direction or a good how-to link that would be great

Would anybody have written down what the ammount of teeth on 1st 2nd 3rd and 4th on Cub trials gearbox, plus front primary, and chain front and back had everything written down myself and put away somewhere, and now cannot find the stuff☹️ Vinnie

Hi. I've modified my Cub forks to have cartridges but now need new fork springs. Could anyone advise what sort of rate I might ask for when speaking to the various suppliers, who I guess include Hagon, YSS, etc? On the rear I'm thinking a set of Betor Alloy jobs for £150-ish. Any thoughts on these? Or NJB Have a good day

Some advice please as the instructions although simple are not clear. I'm fitting to a bare crank. The kit has a small spacer. Do I fit this behind the sleeve and rotor, touching the primary or under the crank nut. The choice will of course move the rotor outwards by about 5mm. Any assistance welcomed

I'm building a Banvill 197 with a 9e engine that ran fine 20 years ago, currently waiting for bottom end to return from alloy welding. But looking at the top end & comparing it to photo's of the Greeves it was previously fitted in I'm concerned about the length of the carb inlet, it's 3 inch long plus a 3/8" fibre spacer see photo. with the air filter I've bought I don't think it will all fit in the frame loop. I have no problem shortening the inlet but just wondered if anyone had seen one as long as this as previously I had Villier's carbs on other engines.

Hi - I have just put my C15 engine back together after fixing a number of oil leaks (I hope!). It never ran very well before - it seemed to never idle properly. I've only owned it for a short while and managed to nurse it through for its first job which was just to deliver my daughter to her outdoor wedding (about 100 yards up a drive!) without getting oil on her dress! Now I have it all back together, it starts easily and I seem to be able to get a lovely, smooth, medium speed idle but as soon as I open the throttle it bogs and dies. I am out of my depth and need some help - maybe a sequence of things to eliminate/try? It is a fairly standard looking engin…

My apologies for posting in the wrong sub-forum but this crowd typically will know most about the BSA unit single and it's application in trials. I am building up a B25 motor/modded B44 frame with old Bultaco suspension and wheels. I am ready to make my skid and have a few questions based on zero trials but other technical knowledge. Thinking 5mm/3/16 plate which ill heat treat to T6 after welding. Do I need to extend beyond the frame rails? I weld aluminum daily and was uythinking keeping the skid narrow and patching the covers when/if they get damaged. Will I need a spare in my tool box? How much case contact are you making? i would like to add I re…

Hi , as above my cub has one of Petes clutches .Question is does anybody else run one these with an Armac lightener ?, I can't seem to be able to get the action right ,if I adjust so as the bike will kick start ok this results in there not being enough leverage to disengage properly . Iam having doubts that this type of clutch will work with the said llightener . Any feedback or help would be great . Thanks .

With a bit of time on my hands at the moment I thought I’d have a go at fitting may new ignition to the Cub and tidy up a few loose ends. I really need a new exhaust pipe but can’t seem to find any in stock with the usual suppliers. So is there anyone that knows where I can find a high rise. inside the frame pipe. If anyone has a spare? have a lovely Easter

Most of the photos and parts manuals for my G3LS Matchless show the front wheel fitted so the brake drum is on the near/left hand side. But on a number of photos, including the works Matchless and AJS, the wheel has been reversed so the brake drum is on the right. I'm hoping someone out there can enlighen me on why the different approach?

how long should these be to properly mount the ignition, either pvl or electrixworld thanks

Should there be a ball bearing behind the clutch pushrod & when arm is pulled in how far should pushrod protrude from end of shaft see photo. Not ready for re-build but making a shopping list of parts ready for Villiers Services order, thanks.

Hi, Recently retired so am relatively new to old bikes. Just finished rebuild on !961 B40 which took 18 months. My question is regarding the oil feed to the rockers. It would appear they are not pressure fed due to returning oil pressure being vented into the tank. It obviously works but should I put in a pressure relief valve on the tank return to ensure a pressured feed to the valve gear.

I'm recreating the bike my Dad built for me in the 60's I have a standard bantam 18 incch rear wheel currently fitted with a 3 inch road tyre my question is will this rim accept a 4 inch wide tyre or do I go for a 3.5 tyre. Swing Arm is a Triumph factory trials wide.

Hi guys, I want to try and repair a small crack in the bottom skirt of a Tiger Cub cylinder. The bike will not be used on too much of a regular basis, so I hope that this repair can be successful. I am in two minds though as to how approach this repair. Do I braze it, Oxy/acetylene weld, CO2 or similar inert gas weld. Has anyone tried this? My head tells me to braze it from a joint aspect because it is flexible, but from a welding heat aspect, a quicker CO2 weld seems to be the way to go. Obvioualy the crack will be prepared accordingly prior to repair. Bruce