I’m covered in oil having had my clutch primary cover off at least 3 times tonight. The problem I have is that everything is fine until I put oil in the case. Then the kickstart doesn’t engage as if the clutch were pulled in. Drain the oil and everything is ok. I’ve adjusted the clutch as per the manual with the springs 3/8” from the face of the plate. Anyone have any advice please as I can’t stomach getting covered in more oil to get the same result. 
 

Is there a dry clutch conversion which would save all this and also give some improvements as I’m sure that when I do get this sorted the clutch is more than likely going to slip.

Thanks

I've just fitted fibre plates in a Bultaco to replace the all metal plates. It took at least 6 strip downs to get the pressure  just right to kick when cold but keep the clutch as light as possible. .At the moment no slip when cold starting and clutch is ok for one finger. BUT I'm expecting it to change and need regular attention.

 

Wezzo in my Cub chain case I put sufficient tqf to cover the primary chain, I keep to hand a piece of wire bent to form a dipstick because you cannot see how much is in there.

You need enough spring pressure to prevent slip.

Get A Pete Kirby belt drive clutch no oil work brilliant. You won't regret it

Thanks for the advice. I did ride the bike briefly with no oil in the primary case and it ran sweet. I’ll try the dipstick option today and see if that cures things. I like the sound of the Pete Kirby clutch. How much does one of them cost and where do I get one.

 

have a good weekend all

I fitted this http://www.upbuk.co.uk/shop/clutch/100-4-plate-evo-clutch.html to my Cub along with the alloy pressure plate and it works well

Does it still need oil? I guess so

Pete Kirby 07886 745942. Nice chap very helpful. Not cheap but quality never is. I've had 3 from him work nice. Think they were about £450.

Thanks. I spoke to Pete earlier. Nice bloke. No stock now due to Covid but expects to be receiving stuff from his suppliers in a few weeks. 

I'm the meantime if I use the 'dipstick approach' so that the chain is lubricated, will thr plates burn out, u der thr massive power load?

Plates will be ok they can run dry as do Pete's clutch. You won't regret buying one. Fit and forget I don't bother using a gasket as no oil to leak.

Thanks robido. I do seem to have a constant ‘trickle’ of oil under this Cub. I’ve taken to making my own gaskets as the brown paper ones are worthless and this has improved things but guess that the cases become damage over time. I was wondering, is there any reason why the right hand outer case needs to carry oil? Seems to me that all the mechanics are inside the engine. Could I block up any holes and run this side case without a gasket. I haven’t looked to closely whether this is feasible/advisable

I have used chain lube spay primary chain make sure the inner clutch bearing has bit grease on that do on my bsa b40 c15 use rubber instant gasket with your paper gasket let it go off over night then put drop of ATF in see if leaks out  

What about the offside case. Does that need to have oil in it for any reason?

no don't need there is a small breather hole at the front inside for the engine the top bush leak a bit when the engine is not running just leak back in to the engine . but if your using it for trials going to streams this needs to be changed 

As designed, the engine breathes through the cam bush into the outer casing. There is a hole behind the clutch cable entry point to get the pressure out, the oil drains back to the sump through the small hole in the inner case. Most people fit a blind bush on the cam to stop breathing into the case and plug the drain hole ( to stop water getting in when streams etc) . The engine then breathes through a hose fitted into he dizzy blanking plug, ideally with a non return valve to create a vaccum in the crank cases. 

Edited May 10, 20206 yr by alan