lukass

Wow really? Anybody know what this is for? It would be a good idea to prevent oil starvation to the valve train if the bike is still running on it's side. Seems a little extreme to have it shut down at such a small angle though. I haven't seen any of these yet, can't wait to give one a try. Are they wet sump? Bucket and shim or rocker valve train?

Make sure the ground strap of the welder has a good connection to the frame and get it as close as you can to where you will strike the arc. Current will follow the path of least resistance and wont spike anything on the bike. Unplug the CDI if it makes you feel better but ive done plenty removing anything. If you want an experiment find a piece of steel and hook your ground to the middle and grab it at the end, now strike your arc at the other end...no problem. Now hook your ground to one end and grab it in the middle, strike your arc at the other end...whew tickles dont it.

Wow I believe you that it's a recent picture but damn... go throw it off a rock or something make us all feel better.

Does it turn free before the top triple clamp goes on? If so it might be that when you tighten the big nut at the very top it pushes the locking ring down that bit extra and starts sticking. You can try loosening the lock ring a little more then put the clamp back on and tightening it all up, as long as there is no play in the stem your all good.

The two things on the stem are the dust seal and the locking ring, take these off and slide the stem into the frame, the bearing at the bottom will sit in its race. Put the top bearing in (not shown) it will also sit in its race flush with the frame. Put the dust seal on (lip down) and wind the locking ring on to tighten the whole thing up, make sure it all moves smoothly. You want to tighten that ring until the steering starts to stiffen up and then back it off a little. Put the top triple clamp on and then the big nut (not shown) on top of that, dont forget the top pinch bolts.

FYI header pipe removal You should have a good set of allen keys that look like this... So all you have to do is... There you have it. Bob you need an impact driver for the screws. If you want to know how to remove or replace anything chances are ill be able to help.

Thanks Bud, Thats heaps clearer than the one i had. Cheers

As a matter of fact apparently i did lose it which i am kind of dirty about but it's a stupid idea so i dont feel too bad. Does anyone know why its there surely they could have made one rod 6mm longer. Anyway i opened up an old wheel bearing and amazingly found 6mm balls first try so its all good. Ive not long bought the bike so i stripped and rebuilt it to check everything and that was the only problem i had. Had a few rides around the yard and its going sweet, never realised you could have so much fun hardly moving.

First up Hi everybody and thanks in advance for your help. The clutch slave cylinder pushes a rod through which pushes a "special rod" (according to diagram) which lifts the clutch basket, there is supposed to be a spacer in between these rods thats listed as D6 is this a 6mm ball bearing?