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carl ekblom

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Posts posted by carl ekblom
 
 
  1. Had a discussion with a number of Bultaco experts some time ago about possible  shades of Bultaco blue. It ended  "there is only one known Bultaco blue from factory". Different shades of blue seen on old colour photos is possibly due to agening photos. This is good for me unless someone has different and more correct information.

    My remark is RAL5015 suits well (or perfect) and it´s easy to find https://www.ctborracha.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/3-RAL-to-Pantone-Conversion.pdf

  2. Think you need weld on brackets for the footpegs in mention.

    Most people feel comfortable if they move the footpegs slightly rearwards and slightly downwards.

    Slightly is up to a couple of cm. I like the S3 steel ones. S3 steel footpegs are reasonable light and are long lasting

  3. 199A head steady is not a good design. Mine has been broken for at least one year now. Seems to work well nevertheless. Best is of course to loosen all necessary bolts and retighten to avoid extra strain after assembly. For my 199B I have made a new and better design but not tested yet.

  4. It might be residues from air filter spray that follows the airstream into idle system and get stuck. It is not dissolved in clean petrol. Some people use Carb-Cleaner to dissolve. Have no experience of that liquid. When blowing, should use well filtrated HP-air. The passages are very small in the idling system so it can be difficult to clean.  It happens it is a nightmare. Perhaps you should concentrate on cleaning the carb body and buy a new jet.

    As jets can be dirty from factory it is best to have it ultrasonic cleaned before assembly. For safety´s sake, HP-blow the jet after the Ultrasonic cleaning.

    Is it a Dellorto VHST or Kehin PWK?

    My last carb-cleaning-nightmare was approx  8-10 years ago with a Mikuni (original) on a Beta evo 4t. Eventually a man (not me) fixed it.

    • Like 1
  5. To me it sounds like you have a problem with dirt in idling system. Not easy to clean. Must take everything out from carb and carefully blow and clean. Remember to blow and clean all drillings and passages in carb body. After only use a good, clean and oiled airfilter and change often. As I see it, dirt in idling system is one of the most common problem in a dirt bike. If problem is only at certain throttle openings I would say it isn´t the ignition. Ignition problems is most often at all throttle settings.

  6. Accordingly to this list https://cemoto.tripod.com/list.html 199B started in May 1981 and ended ?  Numbers should be 12876-14653. It is unclear when production ceased. Some sourses say in 1983. Rumours say the workforce assembled the last bikes from remaining parts

    https://cemoto.tripod.com/photos/blue.jpg

  7. The sealing is often (always?) made of radial type seals . This is possible because differential pressure is low and speed is moderate

    Pic 1 is the scraper side. Facing upwards. You also have a separate dust scraper above this. The spring is there only to make scraper effect better.

    Totally there will be one dust scraper and one oil seal. Your oil seal has one scraper side and one oil pressure side

    Pic 2 is pressure seal side. Facing downwards. Oil pressure pushes the lip harder against the stanchion. The spring gives an initial sealing pressure

    Some radial seals doesn´t have a scraper lip.

    Take the dust scraper away every month or so, and clean under (above the fork seal). This may prolong oil seal life

    Put some grease (or similar) on the retaining ring to prevent rust

    The retaining ring is above the the oil seal and hold it in place

  8. The pressure in in the lower leg on a normal fork so the seal should seal downwards. Looks to be OK in the first photo. I recommend SKF (original at newer evo) fork seals. To protect the seal from damage (easy to do) cover the all sharp edges with some electrical tape and grease or oil the stanchion and tape before assembly. The guy in the movie clip seems to do it correctly

  9. I think the Mikuni VM was quite good for my 199A. However, might need some fine tuning, and adjustments to float level, as I always had problem with sudden engine stops when going slightly downhill. The sound indicates too rich mixture at low throttle setting, but runs well. And the Air Screw is on the right side😕

    OKO (mid-atlantics) sounds good and runs good. I found the airfilter (inside air box) and connection to carb to be important. I use OSSA tr80 airfilter and a small platic tube inside the air box rubber as a connector to get it all working.

    The OKO has idle and air screw to the left

    Let´s see later next year if I still prefer the OKO

    If you test, pay attention the OKO is flat slide. Make sure it is permitted if you want to compete.

    • Like 1
  10. Idle      30

    Main   140

    Needle 5C23

    Needle jet O3

    Throttle valve 2

    Basically as it came from France Classic Trial

    Yes, it runs rich at small throttle setting but needs choke when starting from cold

    If changing to 2,5 throttle valve I guess the needle and needle jet has to be changed but have not tested. Now runs OKO

  11. Tried different PHBL combinations. This is one of the latest

    Idle             25

    Needle      266K

    Needle jet D36

    Throttle      60

    Main         115

    Thought first it was very nice. Strong mid throttle and full throttle

    Later found out it was little weak at low throttle.

    Perhaps PHBH is more all round. Also more period.

    OKO or Mikuni for Bultaco is more all round. Today OKO is my first choice. However OKO may not be permitted for competition everywhere. But flat slide is period

     

 
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