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carl ekblom

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About carl ekblom

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    RoyalE-65 Bult199A

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  1. As Sherpa325 says you must find out "what is wrong with what" before trying to rectify it. If you suspect the Dellorto, test OKO. Pay attention to the air filter and how the carb is connected to the air box. I found out this is very important OKO can be bought here http://www.mid-atlantictrials.com/Bultaco.html Edit Spelling error
  2. Prehaps these fit https://www.inmotiontrials.com/product/front-stainless-spoke-set-yamaha-ty-125-175-250/ or these https://www.bdi-production.com/en/wheels/2514-yamaha-ty-steel-front-spoke-set.html
  3. I think you have a fuel delivery problem.... somewhere..... perhaps inside carb, but always good to replace the spark plug after long standstill. Use plug accordingly to manual. Nothing else.
  4. Engine is probably OK as I see it. Avoid putting the bike into flames when kicking with spark plug out and lots of petrol in the engine as you might need more of it. When attempting to start you often need lots of throttle. If engine seems to run OK it is most likely OK and no harm done, but you may have to check you float valve for defects and of course your float level
  5. Any Alkylate petrol would be about the same. But Aspen is one of the oldest and best. They also produce high octane racing petrol (Aspen+ and Aspen R) Think Aspen is looking for distributors worldwide https://www.aspenfuels.com/contact/become-a-dealer/ As fas as I know, their main business is chain saws and garden machinery
  6. Alloy or Copper washer would be ok. But you should inspect the mating surfaces for scratches and dents. And also inspect for cracks because if correctly assembled this would rarely happen.
  7. This link was remowed from my previous posting https://trialsguru.net/ajs-matchless-trials-singles/ No censorship today
  8. You may have a look in Don Morley´s book "Classic British Trials Bikes" (found mine at ebay) Be aware that an original bike perhaps not will be competitive nowadays. Some people start with an engine then build a complete trials bike of suitable parts which I think is the correct way to do it. Don´t take a nice original bike apart. Leave it as it is. Accordingly to me the cheapest and easiest way to classic trials is to start with a classic twinshock from the 70´s. A good classic pre 65 will easily be 2-3 times as much.
  9. If plug is too hot it may cause pre ignition and pinking if very much too hot the plug may melt down. If too cold carbon will build up at electrodes and perhaps start to misfire. If very much too cold sparking will stop and engine stops. Combustion process and cylinder head temperature does not change until something bad happens. Lean mixture and retarded ignition may increase engine temperature. If very bad engine may melt down. Always start with manual specifications and importer instructions. If they say a hotter plug is needed. Use that plug This is after 4 years in my 199A. I crashed (dropped it at the floor) the plug some weeks ago when I for some reason had to take it out. Plug is Champion N11YC. Difficult to get a good photo
  10. A hotter plug will not change the combustion process but will change the temperature of the plug (hotter). Use plug accordingly to the manual and importer instructions. If you run Alkylat petrol like Aspen combustion would be cleaner. You may start with Aspen 4T and mix yourself, but give it some time to clean the engine https://aspenfuel.co.uk/
  11. carl ekblom


    https://www.jitsie.com/en/gloves/55076-gloves-g3-core.html Large is approx size 9.5-10 Think all major brands have some
  12. carl ekblom


  13. "Fan appears to come on and run as it should, then after pottering about for 5-10 mins it starts to steam and spit coolant out of the breather pipe. All hoses are hot so pretty sure circulation is OK." A leaking barrel/head joint can give those symptoms.The joint must be 100% tight under the gas pressures when the engine is running If your head is from a smaller engine it might increase the compression. Perhaps not what you want. A GG300 is a hefty bike to ride My guess is that there was a problem they tried to rectify with an other head while it might be the barrel that was distorted after overheating. It shoud be very difficult to read a plug with modern fuel and modern 2-stroke oil. I would check the jetting, air filter and the condition of the carb
  14. This man use a plastic bag to protect the seal Edit: Spelling error
  15. The black coating is a sort of DLS-coating. Very hard and has low friction. Under DLS you often find hard crome on stanchions. I do not remember which year Beta started putting SKF-seals in their forks but SKF-seals should fit any Evo and possibly(?) also Rev. I have SKF seals in my 2009 4T. Very happy with them. Innteck have dimension lists In order to make the seals sealing properly the stanchions must be in good condition And, it is easy to scratch the seals. To avoid this you can: 1 Put the seal(s) on the stainchion first with protection from tape(at the end of stanchion) and some oil 2 Put everything into the lower leg. 3 You may have to make (or buy) an assembling tube to press the seal into the lower leg. In fact I think it is needed. Sometimes if leaking, cleaning the seal between the sealing surface and stainchion will help. You can do this with a thin deburred feeler gauge. Use oil to lower the friction when doing this. Afterwards, the forks must be aligned properly. Also make sure your lower legs not are severe dented but this of course has nothing to do with leaking seals. DimensioniSeals.pdf
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