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carl ekblom

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  1. You need a flywheel puller to extract the flywheel You may need an impact gun, for the central bolt, at the extractor. Be careful not to destroy the threads, I think the risk is low, when disassembly. You may need something between the crankshaft threads and central bult
  2. Some models of GasGas use mineral oil. Consult the manual (or importer) and use the same oil, or at least the same type of oil. By the way, Dot4 is used on a lot of trials bikes.
  3. There MUST be some, we can call it "endfloat". Normal is 0.25-0.5 mm to compensate for heat variations etc. It does not make any harm at all.
  4. Never happy with the Crapioli forks but they can be improved. Ohlins is a much better rear shock then Sachs Think I got mine from Splatshop Be aware that there is no standard for fork oils i e one brand 10w might be thinner then 5W of another brand or vice versa
  5. I don´t know about Fantic settings but normal is to close fuel screw lightly and then open until best idle. I then open fuel screw about 1/8-1/4 of a turn extra for trials use. You must test which setting is the best for you and count the turns. Needle notches usually are counted from top of needle. I would say that 3rd notch is no 3 from top. All settings should be documented. A good place is a laptop. Hope this is of any help
  6. Have used tubeliss last years at my Bultaco, together with X11 and 803GP. Little more complicated to mount but saves a lot of trouble. Think it is a good product. No inner tube is needed.
  7. It is normal that the leg without damping to be quicker then the leg with damping. How much? It´s impossible to say. Depending on your settings, oil and forks. Trials bikes suspension is not sophisticated compared to moto-x bikes.
  8. Your front wheel spindle should take care of that. Ought to be equal
  9. And with long thread https://www.amazon.com/Stens-635-100-Decompression-compatible-Husqvarna/dp/B01A9F20ZS
  10. A Chainsaw decompressor may work https://www.amazon.com/Husqvarna-455-Chainsaw-Decompression-Valve/dp/B01M11BATK
  11. Rupert Ratio "Unit Single Manual" states for 1962 bikes.... N5. I would try a projected N11YC or even N12YC and see how it goes. Projected spark plugs must not bang into something (piston or valves) N5 is non projected as normal of that day. Think N5 would equal N9 projected, or just about. A plonking trials bike may need a little hotter plug. Do not replace original Electrex cap. It might sit there for a reason (suppression)
  12. Electronic ignition or not I think it has no major impact. Start with what is recommended for B40 trials riding. You may find some answer here http://www.bsaotter.com Think electrex is delivered with correct cap. Remember that modern petrol doesn´t foul plug as much as before. Long time running may be necessary before reading plugs. If black colour after short time it might be oil contamination and it hasn´t much to do with spark plug grade, but oil taking part in the combustion process and it should generally be avoided.
  13. This is not an answer what I think you should do, but I have good experience of the OKO/PWK carb. http://www.mid-atlantictrials.com/Sales.html have a kit for the 240 on their homepage. Some adaptors for the air filter may have to be done. For stock Dellorto https://www.inmotiontrials.com/product/dellorto-carburettor-complete/
  14. Normal, is vertical rear wheel travel. The static sag can be 10-20mm, and loaded sag (with rider fully equipped in riding position) can be somewhere in region 40-50% of full rear wheel travel. Measure to a convenient point at rear mudguard and center of rear spindle
  15. Not the Amal throttle but a fast (white) Domino. I found it to be too slow. Original is much better
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