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carl ekblom

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About carl ekblom

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    RoyalE-65 Bult199A

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  1. Yes, I think you should give the carb a thoroughly clean. Not only the jets,but also all passages. Blowing with compressed air is not bad. I have a filter in the blow line to make sure the air is clean enough. You may need a set of new trials tyres. If you think to use an inner tube for the rear you have only one option.....IRC. For the (tubed) front you can use IRC, Michelin or Dunlop. Lot of people use IRC at the rear and Michelin at the front.
  2. Don´t buy any chep ones at Ebay from China. I tried but never got anything. Just promises to send. I tried to get this seller ruled out from Ebay but it was too late for that Ebay said. Not much money but I don´t like this type of criminal behaviour. Buy from a reputable european dealer. If there is any malfunction, he will replace it or give you the money back. I think Ebay is good but I will never, nerver, ever, again buy anyhing directly from China.
  3. I am now on my 4th year with Electrex ignition (199A). No problem at all. It has been fit and forget. With a new set of points it was permanet struggling. The new points came from Spain but timing was very difficult and the abscissa distance were not correct. Abscissa distance is the distance between the poles at the coil and the angular distance to the magnetic poles in the flywheel. The Electrex ignition has been well worth the money I assume other brands would do the same but it will be Electrex on my 199B.
  4. Boots are also a safety device. If you are serious about trials riding. Get yourself a pair of proper trials boots. You won´t regret it. Some are little cheaper then others.......like Wulfsport, or to keep cost down perhaps you can find a pair of 2nd hand that are OK.
  5. Have a look at Jawa/CZ or MZ hubs. Some of them are pre-65 aluminium and nice.
  6. Betor will give you som degree of "progressive damping" Something that Kent Öhlin and others started to avoid more then 40 years ago.
  7. As far as I know Dunlop only make tubeless rear tyres. Front is always tubed type so no problem. I use Tubeliss to mont tubeless Dunlops on old rims, sometimes running as low as 0,25bar (normally 0,3bar) I would keep the tyre and buy a Tubeliss. No traditional inner tube is needed. Tubeliss costs around 100 eur but is well worth it. However they making mounting little more difficult. Several of my classic trials friends also use Tubeliss and I have not heard of any problem. In case you want to compete, I am not sure they are allowed everywhere.? I was using IRC tr11 before but I think Dunlop is more of an "all rounder" .My experience is that Dunlop 803GP is a much better trials tyre then the older Dunlop 803. I recent years I have been using IRC tr11 , Michelin Competition /X-light and Dunlop 803/803GP on modern and classic bikes At the moment I am happy with the 803GP.
  8. carl ekblom

    Rev03 Fork Bushes

    Now I see....The coating is usually greyish. The coating on the inside is still there but little worn. The Crapioli forks need every help they can get so I would replace them all. For a very economical work pehaps I would put them back. Normal forks has the coating on the lower bush on the outside while the upper has on the inside. Must be the opposite on USD-forks On good forks the lower aluminium leg should have the bore anodized on the inside (not easy to do). Crapiolis are not good forks so I don´t know about them. Anodized aluminium has a very hard, low friction surface. I think Beta nowadays own Crapioli and the forks has become much better.
  9. carl ekblom

    Rev03 Fork Bushes

    The one on the last photo is busted. They are teflon coated and will function (with possible more friction) even if the coating is worn out. .If it were my bike I would replace them all.
  10. Thanks, So they are MX-hubs. They look little like the ones on road models. Symmetrical is good because it it more easy to find rims that fit reasonable well. It is good to know since the alloy1/2 width Monark-hubs (1955 model) we often use are getting rare and are difficult to find nowadays. I sometimes see the 1/2 width asymmetrical MX-CZ hubs in advertisments but they are expensive. Too expensive for me🙄. But the gold colour is for me a signal of electron🙂 I was told the MZ-hubs also are pre-65 but as you say they are heavy, I would prefer some lighter alternative. Thanks again
  11. PSchrauber: Those lightweight CZ hubs. I think they ought to pre 65 legal everywhere. You know which CZ/Jawa model they came from?
  12. Running backwards😮. As others say: Your ignition is most likely way out of timing. I would check that the flywheel key is there and is in good condition. If so, check the ignition point again and that the breaker plate can be tightened and everyting else ignition related is OK. I have got the information that modern breakers are ment for Lambretta, not Bultaco and that make correct timing difficult......but running backwards🤔
  13. Tennis elbows can be difficult. It is inflammation from being overstressed. Your elbow must have sufficient time to recover between the passes. Try to run only 2 times a week and only one hour/pass. Or only once a week max one hour. It is better to run little then nothing at all. Keep your elbow warm to enhance blood circulation. If it gets cold it may get worse. Use a propriate jersy with long arms and perhaps a riding jacket. Drugs like Naproxen may help litte. Cortison injection probably more but it is in no way a permanent cure. Adjusting riding position, handebar and levers may help little. Try to find a relaxing position. Some exercises to practice in front of TV are also good. The physiotherapist will help you with good TV exercises but remember your elbow needs time to recover between the "in front of TV" passes. Time to recover is perhaps the single most important thing. Elbow must not be static when recovering. You must move it by doing normal activity. It enhances blood circulation and helps the recovering process Good luck
  14. Think they have been out of stock for some time now. Perhaps someone still stock them or you can try to get the best used you can find. Dimension is not standard so it is difficult to find another brand of chain that fits.
  15. Make sure that all parts are correct for your 198A. Even though they look the same they might be different between 2/4-stroke and between Mk1/Mk2 carb. Besides that there are specific parts for some models. Std 2-stroke needle for a series 2900 carb should be marked 2D1 while they for a series 2600 carb should be marked 2B1. Also check that your jet holder is of the correct type and that the air jet is of correct size. Lot of information here www.amalcarb.co.uk.
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