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carl ekblom

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About carl ekblom

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    Advanced Member

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  • Bike
    RoyalE-65 Bult199A

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  • Website URL
    http://www.formtools.se
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  • Location
    Sweden
  • Gender
    Male

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  1. I use all metal lock nuts. After two years no problem at all. I think nylock may deteriorate in transmission oil and heat
  2. I assume shock has an internal bladder and should function either way. Normal practice is to keep unsprung weight low so I would reverse the shock.
  3. Remember to carry with you when riding: X-tra magnet for lanyard switch
  4. I use football socks to prevent sweat dropping from legs into boots. Make feets little dryer.
  5. Found the BSA C15 is at ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BSA-C15-ROYAL-ENFIELD-FRAME-TRIALS-BIKE-PRE-65-TRAILS-3995-OFFERS-PX-BANTAM/293627622614?hash=item445d91f4d6:g:5qoAAOSwmqNdc9tv A B25 would fit as nice as a C15 and be much cheaper to build as you are not limited to pre65. For proper trials I guess a crusader frame should be narrowed around the seat area. To do this I think a fixture to hold the swing arm should be made before any cutting and welding/brazing. Had a peek at your blog and agree. It´s easy to find spares at reasonable cost for Royal Enfields and some Indian parts will fit Reddish bikes. For instance, an Indian 350 alloy barrel will fit a 1949 350?
  6. Found this but C15+ Enfield Crusader(?) From Facebook Classic Trial Denmark. Nice bike? Be aware that B25 may not be pre65 approved everywhere. Only important if you want to compete. I have heard of B25 been changed to C15 lookalike but I guess a scrutinizer would found out
  7. As far as I know gearbox oil has a significant smell when burned and should easily be detected. Totty79 seems to have a good theory.
  8. I suggest partly blocked idle system or an air leak. Idle air/Idle mixture screw and idle stop screw must be correctly adjusted. Also check throttle cable and throttle. They must be well lubricated and move freely. A good reseller should be able to give you information about correct jetting. Make notes about your jetting and changes you do. I know, if everything is correct, advancing the ignition a few degrees sometimes can help a little to reset the idle quicker. About going downhill, I think full clutch, apply foot and hand brake to slow or retard Carl
  9. Fork seals might be 35x47x10. Old bikes often use 2 seals/leg which really isn´t needed. Use one seal, for the 2nd make a plastic spacer. Avoid "All Balls" seals. They are of a high friction type. Green SKF (Kit 35M) are among the best
  10. A more and more common problem? These people seem stock some https://www.francetrialclassic.com/en/engine-spares/68-bultaco-sherpa-250-350-primary-transmission-chain.html Perhaps Spanish?
  11. Unusual dimesion? Found it: https://joresa.com/en-gb/about Pitch should be 9.52 (3/8) Roller dia should be 5.08mm
  12. Measurements taken at one original 199B chain Roller dia: 5.0 (4.98mm) Pitch: 9.5 (9.46mm) Inside width: 7.5 (7.52mm) No of rollers: 52 Clutch chainwheel width is 6.95mm
  13. Yes, but remember to have the spark plug earthened and away from the spark plug hole. I guess 30-40 quick kicks is needed.
  14. If you have the Mikuni carb it may have flood and you ought to clean your crankcase With Mikuni carb: 1 Always close the petrol tap when parked. 2. Never park the bike pointing downhill. 3 Check the float valve and float level l
  15. Check that the key is there and the flywheel is correctly seated. The key can fell out during assembly (I know?). Normally you don´t need a capacitor with electronic ignition. The instructions should tell. /Carl
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