nevilletanner

i tried the " put it in gear and use the brake " .. didnt work in the slightest even remember a bloke using a spanner through the spokes and trying to undo the flywheel nut - highly funny to see 4 spokes go ping as they snapped. the rope method sounds bad, but it really does work and doesnt do any damage, just dont use a hemp rope as that breaks up on compression where nylon doesnt.

take the spark plug out and put nylon rope in the spark plug hole ... then slowly turn the clutch until it locks up , make sure all the rope comes back out.

got your email, manual and schematic with part numbers have been sent. you need to try the fan with a 12v DC supply, either from a car battery or a power supply, until then you cant tell if its the fan or any other component, if the fan works check the following. earth connection from the fan or earth connection to the thermostat switch ( depends on how it is wired ) +12v dc feed to the fan or the thermostat ( again depents on which way it is wired ) use a multimeter or a 12v bulb will do. if thre is 12v then it has to be a earthing issue if not :- check there is 50v AC on the yellow wire from the stator to the rectifer , if there is go for a new rectifer (easy to make with a couple of components from Maplins) if there is no voltage on the yellow wire then its time to get the stator re-wound.

yep i sure have , message me your e-mail addy. have you checked the fan via connecting it up to a 12v battery ? have you shorted out the two wires to the thermo switch ( brass bolt with two wires going to it at the top of the cylinder) good place to start, then you will know where to start looking for a fault.

two stroke so the cut out operates the transfer of INLET

sounds like the wiring has been screwed up .. *** the YELLOW wire is unregulated AC electric .. do not use this for anything. **** the blue from the regulator goes to the thermostat ( top of cylinder ), then from the thermostat to the fan , then from the fan back to the regulator. that would leave the red as a live ( check with a multimeter to make sure its +12 dc) to run the light ... i am not sure of the colour for the -ve as on my diagram the image is blured. i can send the owner manual ( includes wiring diagram ) if you send me your email. all the best. N.

Washers ? - the only washers are where the banjo connections are, these should NOT leak at any time, if they do then they will draw air back into the system and it will never work. the bleed nipple is exactly the same as whats on the brake calipers ( follow the front brake pipe down to the caliper, where it connects is a banjo connector, at the top of the caliper is the bleed nipple - its exactly the same as on the right hand engine case except this is the clutch one) - deffinatly no washers !. if you mean from the nipple - then yes its to loose but will still work eventually. all the best Neville

Hi, for some reason there seems to be alot ot trouble bleading beta hydraulics, many people try all different ways of doing this but the one that works for me is as follows. make sure bike is level through out unscrew the filler cap on the clutch lever attach a 1 to 2 metre length of clear plastic pipe to the bleed nipple located on the right side of the engine case ( right as if sitting on bike) loosen the nipple half a turn suck on the tube while keeping a eye on the level in the clutch lever reserviour and top up as required keep going until the fluid comes half way up the plastic pipe (there should be bubbles and then a good section with just fluid (no bubbles) close the bleed nipple, and replace reserviour cap this is just one method - there are plenty more if you cant get on with this one.

hi the rear suspension bush is labeled and numbered as 28-93250 sperical bush. try BVM moto on 01453 762743

messgae me with your email .. i have it on pdf.

hi i havent worked on one of these but looking at the schematic its very simular to the yamaha dt model (pre hydraulic clutch) make sure the clutch pin (shaft in middle of clutch is in correctly it should be behind the outer plate the one with the springs on it) so when its pulled on it would pull the outer plate compressing the springs even more. make sure that when you join the engine case together that the clutch pull lever (the bit where the cable connects to on the casing is fully rotated clockwise as on these bikes the clutch works by PULLING the clutch plates apart where the new models ( hydraulic works by pushing the plates apart). on assembling the clutch pull lever on the case should rotate anti clockwise to take up the slack then any further movement anti clockwise should dissingage the clutch by pulling the plates apart. DONT FORGET THIS IS BY LOOKING AT THE SCHEMATICS .. so hopefully is the right way round (clockwise etc ...) hope this is correct N.

from the manual ,,, - right leg ................................................370 cc - left leg .................................................350 cc

got it as a pdf if you want it. message me with your email and ill send it

in all honesty i think its time for you to contact steve at sales-web@uk-motoplat.com this sounds like another faulty wound stator to me (your the fourth one i have heard about) let steve know whats happened and ask him to test the cdi and stator ( you will have to send them to spain but its not a problem and its quite reasonable postage) the only down side is that its gonna be about

hi been there done that... check all earth points ( on my techno i found that under the wire to frame connectors a white powdery corrosion had formed ) this can cause a bad missfire. double check that you have lined up the stator properly , while your there check the drift key on the flywheel ( common to snap if your engine backfires and the flywheel is not on seriously tight). lastly .. where did you get the stator rewound , a certain company in the uk has been doing a very poor job recently to the extent that stators that they have rewound have been so bad on return that they would never work.