nevilletanner

Hi I am posting this hoping that others may learn from my experiance the easy way - i didnt !! About 6 months ago i got a 97 Techno ( i had been after a trial bike for a while ). When i got it home i noticed that the kickback from the kickstart was "lets say dangerous" at best, quite often kicking hard enough to make me hobble about for a few hours, the other thing i noticed was that if the kick was a bit half harted the engine would run backward so i posted the problem on here and got several pointers to check, mainly timing and broked drift key - non of these were wrong. After a few trips out i noticed that the bike wouldnt rev out properly and didnt seem very powerful - about the same as my old KMX125 (25hp) but there was a good bit of torq in the low revs, as this was the first trial bike i have owned i thought that it was ok and that the revs dont go very high anyway compaired to the other bike. Again i questioned this on here and got a good few idears that seemed to help. A few weeks back i took my daughter out on her 80cc PW ( 6HP ) and noticed that she was keeping up with me quite easy, especially on long hills - mainly due to running out of revs, The next day i went out and the engine boiled up, so i took the bike home and decided a engine strip down was required especially as the spark plug was indicating a very rich mixture. After stripping i found that the head and piston had a mild coating of carbon so while it was apart i completely de-carbed the engine and exhaust, i replaced all the rubber seals with new ones and rebuilt the engine, then for good measure i cleaned out the carb and also pulled the flywheel to check the drift key etc. Well after the rebuild the bike started up fine but as soon as the engine warmed up there was the same problems again with a new fault on top - huge backfires from the exhaust. still no power, still kicking back on the kick start, still not revving, still overheating. I pulled the flywheel again and mover the stator (which was well advanced) into the middle position, now the backfire was there at idle and as soon as you opened the throttle the engine died. Flywheel again, this time i retarded the timing (i am now 45 degrees from the original position) and guess what .. the bloody this wont run at all just a huge backfire from the exhaust. so i reset it back to the original position which was extremely advanced. Well after reading through a hell of alot of posts i decided the next step was either the CDI or the STATOR, a quick phone call to BVM and a 98 CDI is on its way ( i was told that it is the same as the 97) and also a thermostat just in case, im now

i have a schematic for a 91 zero if thats any help (in pdf format), if you want it message me with your e-mail. all the best N.

try comparing the engine to the ENLARGED pic on this - (there is a good close up of the 125 engine) http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/beta-techno-125-very...s-/150420114106 ** note ** this item is already sold, so not going against group rules (hopefully)

Hi, previously my techno has had a problem where the engine kickstart kicks back seriously bad and often say under heavy braking the engine will actually run backwards, also at low revs the engiine is fine but at high revs it just splutters and there is no power or increase in rev. TODAY - i have pulled the flywheel and noticed the stator is set almost completely anti clockwise hense the vicious kickback and running backwards problem, i have set the stator to a middle possition and have completely eliminated the running backwards problem, But i now notice there is a dead spot at low revs (about 1/8th throttle) once above this is feels fine until you give it 3/4 to full throttle then theres nothing - no increase in powerand no revs. also the engine is overheating - this has never happened before, the best way to describe it is that it feels like its on choke all the time (never uses choke even from a cold start). I have stripped the engine down and noticed that there is quite a heavy amount of carbon even the spark plug (2 hours of use from new iridium plug) has this heavy coating of carbon aswell, this evening i have removed all the carbon from the piston, head and barrel, there all shiny new now. the carb has been cleaned and all the jets etc seem to be clear. the mixture screw is set at 1.5 turns out from fully in , the carb needle is set in the middle groove, are these the correct settings and any idears what is going on ? bike is mainly used 100 to 400 mtrs above see level. many thanks Neville additional :: the other thing i noticed is that the exhaust is getting very very hot - to the extent that after shutting down the engine its still burning off oil (exhaust still smokes) the bike is a 97 model with a mikuni carb.

i can help here _ i have the scematics with part numbers and i also have a owners manual (year younger but more or less its the same), all in PDF format. send message with a email and i will send them on. *** additional *** i have also got hold of a :- REV 3 (2005) engine scematic with part numbers also in pdf. REV 3 4T (2007) owners book in pdf. REV 50 owners book in PDF. TR34 125/260 (1988) scematic and part numbers in pdf. ZERO 240/260 (1991) scematic and part numbers in PDF. regards

on the owners manual the stop switch has 1X black 1X white take a look on www.carlsalter.com the manual is on there ( be it very slow to download ) its in PDF if that helps

deleted - as stated below its a 4t didnt see this when i responded - my bad

gunged up air filter could create a constant vacuum and cause starting issues and constant demand for fuel in the carb - take out , try it , if so clean or replace. clear ducting from air filter to carb (same reason as above) only other thing that comes to mind would be the reed valves allowing back pressure into the carb and making the fuel in the float bowl bubble up the overflow. i would go with the air filter first as its easy to check, the reed valve block would have to be taken out and inspected to make sure the petals are seeling properly. other than that i would be at a total loss aswell good luck on this one

bit of a long shot on this one but its a possibility. take off the filler cap and see if it still leaks - reason behind this is that there is a air vent in the cap, if this is blocked it could create a vacuum or if the engine in hot then fuel expansion which could be enough to push past the float bowl needle valve. as i say its a long shot but easy enough to check.

Near the petrol tank there is a digital clock / odometer / speedo, this was not working so i took it out and replaced the battery that fits inside it. it now displays ok except it does not actually to anything ( ie speedo stays at 0 ) is it meant to connect to something (on the back of the clock there are two solder points with nothing connected to it) also i have found a wire that goes to the rear brake caliper, i am assuming this is some kind of sensor for the speedo but i cannot figure out where it goes or what it connects to. any idears ? many Thanks.

hello, well i picked up the techno and on saturday took it out and noticed a few problems. First of all the clutch is draging really bad, so yesterday i striped the clutch down and removed all the glue and smoothed the tangs on the outer edge of the friction plates, refitted and filled up with ATF. its still draging but not as bad as before so next stage will be replace the clutch fluid and bleed the system. (how hard should the clutch lever be to operate, currently its a one finger job to pull it back IE extremely easy, is this right ?) if this doesnt work ? second fault, this one is a bit more wierd as there are several things happening :- kickstart kicks back viciously engine has run backwards after a bad kickback through the kick start (several times) when the engine is running below half throttle is feels fine maybe lacking power though, over half throttle the engine bogs down ( as if the choke was left on ) i suspect it could be the timing so possibly the drift key ? and other idears ? Thanks. *** UPDATE *** this afternoon i managed to bleed the clutch (a bit of plastic pipe connected to a syringe, draw on the syringe via bleed nipple and hey presto 2 mins later), clutch is no longer a issue. took the bike up the mountain and a couldnt fault it, i did notice that the engine seemed alot more powerful after a good blast along a track in 5th and then seemed to bog down again 5 mins later.

i hate this kind of question - reminds me so much of "my pc is better than your mac" or "ford`s are better than vauxhall". one group will say this one and the other group will say that one, all it will achive is more confusion on a decision that is yours and yours alone. if you have riden a 290 and like it -- then buy it !! simple as that.

" You do not need to use distilled water in Wales, we got the pure stuff, we send the chlorine chemical filled stuff over the border " lol yes i had noticed - no more furred up kettles and washing machines - hense more money for motorbikes (just dont tell the wife) !! right i have the premix and its a good thing to use ATF in the tranny, i have also looked at the various groups around me (cimla is very close as i live in Resolven) so thats pretty much sorted out. i have also looked at the training section and there seems to be a few different idears on where to start, i guess its down to personal taste. i cant collect the bike till saturday (also found out its actually a 97 model) now and it means a 500 mile drive to london and back , guess its worth it though, just wish it was today ! this is a bit of a long shot - does anyone recall riding up on the mountains near the electric generator windmills between Afon Gorrwg and Glyncorrwg last summer if so then you must be very local to me drop a line on here as i would love to tag along some time. can anyone confirm about the Mg or Al engine case ? thanks again for the input

hello all. A couple of years ago i moved from Harlow in essex and now live in sunny wales (still waiting to see the sun but thats another story), anyway after moving down here i decided that after 20 years of being on 4 wheels and as i have a few hills around me that it would be good to get back on a bike. so i managed to get hold of a KMX125 with a shagged out engine which i replaced with a unrestricted one, well due to this my 2 sons now have bikes and also my brother in law who visits one a month has a bike aswell. all good fun but every time we go out we end up on river beds or in the forest as we all prefure the challange, a few months ago while out we came across a few other bikers, mostly 4-stroke motocross bikes except 2 of them who were on GG`s this fascinated me the way they just stroled along making it all look so easy, there and then made me want a trial bike. well now to the reason of posting on here. yesterday after 2 weeks of searching i come across a BETA TECHNO (98) in A1 condition at the right price, i will be collecting it on friday I have a few questions that i would appreciate answered if possible. 1.. the premix on this bike, i have been told that it will run fine on 70:1 (synth) or 32:1 (mineral) is this correct as all the other bikes here run on 25:1 2.. i have read about the gearbox would be better with ATF instead of gearbox oil again is this correct. 3.. does the TECHNO have the Mg engine case or is it good old Aluminium. also best coolant to use to prevent problems. 4.. any trial clubs near to Neath in Wales ? 5.. best way to learn how to ride this bike ( i have plenty of free time and im guessing the first thing to master is balance while not moving then onto learning to bounce the bike about) , i really havent a clue but i am determine to ride this properly. any other advice is more than welcome, many thanks in advance.