nevilletanner

WCW do only the ducati stators , so thats ok timing plate set to middle of slots is the same as mine. if the wires to the stator were wrong you would only get one spark as the current start to flow and thats it air leak at crank ... take off the carb, cover reed inlet with hand and see if there is suction, there should be. if there is pressure there then the reed valves are not shutting and would need to be sorted out. never heard of the crank leaking but surpose it is possible , try runing some washing up liquid around the center of the crankcase (where the gasket is) and see if it bubbles if so then the gasket has blown. internal gasket i would have thought could be detected by pressure at the engine oil filler hole (dont quote me on this but it seams logical to me). the mixture ratio for fuel / air not sure, but wind the mixture screw all the way home then unwind it 1.5 turns .. that should be a basic setting to get it running, sure some one will but in if this is wrong. you have checked for compression havent you ?

need to work out if its electrical or fuel .... this may not be the best way but it works for me .. poor a couple of cc`s of premix petrol into the air path ( air box or in the connector between a/box and carb) kick the engine a few times and see if it fires .. if it does then go for carb or reed valve or air path leak/blockage(stuck float bowl is common as is a crudded up air filter) if it still does not fire then its elecrical , check earth points (make sure there not furred up between the connector and the frame) has it got the right CDI, theres 2 different ones on the technos, where did you get the stator rewound ? if it was WCW then it would be a ducati cdi unit if it was steve in spain then drop him a email and he will tell you which system it uses. are the wires connected up properly, i have seen one where the +DC was sent to the cdi instead of the required +AC. is the timing plate in the right position (behind the flywheel)? hope this helps.

not what i know of - the parts look the same WCW will test it and let you know either way, they did with me and they even told me about motoplat (i knew allready but wanted to try WCW as they had a quicker turn around time) the only thing i do know is that beta`s use a few different types for there electrics one being motoguzzi and the other being leonilli the latter being my one with the diode in it. my bike is a 98, i dont know what they fitted to later bikes or if they even use the diode/stator combination, hopefully WCW will be able to do yours, if not then the only one is motoplat.

Hi, need to ask for opinions - Today we decided to take the techno`s out but when we whent to start the 97 bike the kick start seemed to be jumping ie resistance as kicking down as normal then there would be a audiable click and the kickstart would continue with NO resistance as if it was notengaged to the engine. i have checked the splines on the shaft and there fine, got a feeling its the mechanism dont know what to call the part except is the gear with a spring that operates the direct connection to the engine. Has any one else dont this job ? is it as complex as the diagram looks ? any advise and list of parts would be appreciated. Thanks all N.

the fly wheel lines up one way only ASLONG AS YOU HAVE THE DRIFT KEY IN !! on the shaft what the flywheel goes onto there is a half moon shaped indentation, in this there is a drift key ( also half moon shaped ) which fits in with a bit that sticks above the shaft on the fly wheel there is a groove, this in turn lines up with the drift key. i would start with the cheapest part and replace the spark plug, then check the kill switch (these are a source of problems). check/replace the coil.

if your near to neath i can help you out. i have a 98 techno and a 96 so the wireing should be pretty much the same. i also have a diagram without colour codes but its simple enough to follow. message me if i can help.

i had the same though about using a sherco stator .... cant be done at the flywheel rotates the wrong way therefore the diode would be on the wrong way round. i would start by double checking all the earth points. check for a break in the HT lead to the spark plug disconnect the kill switch and then the fan and any other electrical stuff like lights. check the regulator and rectifier then the coil (good idear to find someone to swap parts about on there bike then you can sort out what part is faulty) all the best

i have the scematics for the whole bike and engine in pdf format. message me your email and ill send them to you.

if its not to bad - repair it . http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/index....showtopic=26910 take a look - you might be lucky.

there are some that have managed with one stator, suppose its all luck - guess mine run out last month as i just got my stator back from motoplat. ** some techno`s have LEONELLI electrics - these cannot always be repaired by WCW where motoplat repairs all of them.

i purchased one a month ago for a 97 techno, from bvm moto (01453 762743) -

begining to think that your not gonna be a happy bunny first of all try the rectifier lampkins send you - it is possible to get a dodgy component. 1. with the engine running short out the two wires to the thermostat - use a mulitmeter and check if you have DC 12v on the outer poles of the rectifier IF YOU HAVE .. then the fault is between the rectifier and the fan or the fan its self. 2. IF YOU HAVENT then with the motor running use a multimeter on AC and check for voltage between the yellow from the stator and the frame of the bike (i believe its about 70Vac, not 100% sure as i cant check my one still not back from motoplat). 3. IF THERE IS AC then try 1 again but leave out the regulator (if regulator is faulty it could cause a straight through short on the AC circuit) if the fan spins up then its the regulator - dont run it for long as the voltage to the fan could go well over 12volts. 4. if the fan still does not spin then short out the wires to the thermostat onto the cylinder head or frame then if the fan starts its deffinatly a earth problem. probably the wire from the thermostat to frame. 5. if there is no AC at all then its time to have a chat with steve at motoplat to arrange to get the stator tested and probably rewound (

many thanks, thats just what i wanted to hear. Neville

Hi, just a quick question, the regulator on a pre 2000 sherco - does the yellow wire connect to the DC side or the AC side. can i also assume that the black is the -ve ? in other words is the regulator a DIRECT CURRENT regulator or a ALTERNATING CURRENT regulator as i want to use it on a different bike. Thanks

the original would have the capacitor, ill try to explain. if you look at AC electric on a scope it looks like a full sine wave, ie the voltage goes from o to +12 to 0 to -12 to 0 at a rate of 25 times a second when you put this through a rectifier what you get if DC PULSED if again you look on a scope you actually see a half sine wave where the voltage goes from 0 to 12 to 0 and so on at 50 times a second this is not really a good way to have DC so we stick a capacitor into the circuit, this takes a charge at the peak of the pulse and then releases during the lower part of the pulse therefore smoothing out the pulses to get a good near constant DC at 12 volts. ist easier to see it than explain, take a look at http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/powersup.htm its simple to follow. **** you dont need two, its just that RS are so cheap they only sell in multipacks. and i bet that the rectifier at lampkins is actually a regulator - im sure you can guess who sent me the wrong part. N.

excuse the drawing .. seriously poor but it will get the point across . the yellow carries AC electric .. do not use this for anything except going to the rectifier and to a regulator. TWO OPTIONS :- 1.... get onto rs components ( there will be one near you somwhere) and order a stock No. 687-5829 Manufacturer Taiwan Semiconductor Manufacturers Part No. KBL406 (closest match i can find) and a RS Stock No. 684-1983 Manufacturer Vishay Manufacturers Part No. MAL203850102E3 2... find some one breaking a techno (ebay or a trials breaker) and get the part, might take along time though. wire up as in the sketch and give the fan a try (short out the wires at the thermostat to make it come on straight away) *** make sure there is no chance of a short curcuit from the rectifier and wires on the bike frame **** dont bother looking for a rectifier in motorbike shops - there unavailable same as the bloody stators ( still waiting for mine to get back from spain - starting to get withdrawal symptoms now )

two threads - same subject ... thats the excuse im using .. what you requested is here http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/index....showtopic=31525

can do better than this :- http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchB...t&R=6875598 and on top of that is 1000uf electrolytic capacitor connected to the outer wires. NOTE the green goes to the thermostatic switch then onto earth (frame of bike) your colours may not be the same as my electrics have been changed in the past.

this is the way its wired on my 97 .. might be the same depends on if its DUCATI or LEONILLI electrics. try this :- follow the yellow wire FROM the engine (stator) this should go to the rectifier, from the rectifier there should be a blue wire that goes to the thermostat switch on top of the cylinder, the other side of the thermostat should goto earth. back to the rectifier there should be two other wires ( green on mine) these goto the fan as they supply 12v DC. ** in the pic the yellow wire is split into 2, wondering if the other yellow goes to a regulator ? *** i have some other diagrams of the electrics somewhere .. ill see if i can dig them out and sent to you. ****dont be surprised if the rectifier consists of a RS406l (bridge rectifier) with a blue 1000uf capacitor on it wraped in tape. (if same then the 2 wires with the capacitor (outer wires on rectifier [inner two are for the AC input]) on it are the 12v DC feed and earth for the fan)

the wiring on technos are a nightmare - its no wonder they go wrong on my 97 the yellow wire is AC+ from the stator, it goes to the rectifier the other side of the rectifier goes to the thermostat and then onto earth. there are two other wires from the rectifier which are + and - 12v dc which goes to the fan. in other words when the engine gets hot the thermostat completes the AC circuit from the rectifier to earth, this in turn allows DC12v to goto the fan. not so sure on your bike as my one does NOT use a regulator and uses LEONELLI electrics instead of Ducatti, also on my one the rectifier is actually a whetston bridge rectifier with a 1000uf cap across the DC to smooth it out ( seriously there just bare components with insulating tape around them). it worried me so i emailed steve Hardaker (this man is seriously good at beta electrics) who is currently rewinding my stator and he said that this is the way it should be . sorry i cant be more help as its hard to picture it in my mind and is more than likely different to my one.

the box with the yellow wire is a REGULATOR. i had one sent to me instead of a rectifyer which has 4 wires, some staff at motorbike shops just dont get it right do they. N.

Hello, send me your e-mail in a pm and i can send you the owners manual and the bike schematic with all the part numbers on if that will help. all the best N

hi, yes i know the post your on about .. it was me that done it. i managed to sort out one problem and now another has come to life, i hate the electrics on the beta. i managed to find a diagram and it was wired up wrong, i have now corrected it but the same fault is still there. not sure if its the regulator or the stator, all i know is that there is not enough current to run the fan and the engine at the same time so im more inclind to think its the stator but im not really 100% sure, i really dont want to pay out for a new one. ANYONE KNOW THE VOLTAGE OUTPUT FROM THE YELLOW WIRE ? IS THERE A WAY TO TEST A REGULATOR ? regards Neville

97 TECHNO. i need some help with this as im not sure if this is correct :- FAULT - bike runs fine, as soon as the fan comes on the engine starts back fireing and loss of power. (also fan only comes on when engine is reving , not when idling). i have traced the wiring upto the regulator ( on mine its actually a rectifier with a 1000uf capacitor wired up as follows +ve - green/blue wire ----| AC - yellow | AC green 1000uf cap -ve - black wire ----| the green/blue goes to the fan the black goes to the fan the yellow goes to the stator this is where it makes no sense to me at the GREEN goes to the thermostat the other side of the thermostat goes to Earth (frame). As this comes from the AC connection shouldnt it be earthed or shouldnt there be another yellow ? if anyone has a wiring diagram i would really really appreciate it as this is causing me lots of grief and frustration many thanks