Well It's been over a year now since I shelved this project, never thought it would be on the back burner for this long but with a new garage and more time on my hands it's made it back onto the front line.
After pulling it back out and a quick inventory check I have a list of parts to order and some to source.
I have the original gear lever but it has no spring at the tip, I'm not going with the all original theme so what are the alternatives to this ? any pointers / pics would be appreciated
Same for kick start it's gone all sloppy with age - what are the alternatives ?.
finally gearing, It's been suggested 11-39 should suffice, views and experience welcome.
There's prob more I should have asked but it will come back eventually.
Little more done today - engine, exhaust and shocks bolted in, had to replace the green wire from the ign when fitting the new coil as all the insulation had wasted away, strange as all the other wires were perfect, put a bit of a stutter in my day but here's how it looks tonight
Family permitting I should get a bit more done tomorrow.
If you just want the frame painted or powder coated it would be much more cost effective to have it done locally, having spoken with Chris in the last few days he is swamped with work at the minute and is unlikely to take in your frame just for painting at this time.
check out some of the more local powder coatig firms to you and save on time and postage.
Or contact Chris through his site by e-mail or Tel.
H..
Hi Guys,
Ive just had my 240 engine rebuilt by Bill Pye and could do with getting the frame painted, as a matter of interest how much roughly does classic trial charge to do it? (Dont worry I wont quote you!!!)
Well the engine finaly went into the shop a few weeks later than anticipated but at least the project is on the move, the engine has been stripped down and everything is as expected except the barrel which has a deep gouge running the the length of it, clearly ignored by a previous owner just a new ring fitted and left, but a new piston has been sourced and is due to be sent down to langcourt with the barrel for repair and revival.
I've had to sacrifice my Nikon gear to Finance this project but a decision had to be made as to whether to just make it work and fix bits as they pack up or break or do the job properly and make myself a keeper so decision made.
After a couple of lengthy conversations with Chris I have decided to send the frame down to classic-trial to have the steering head angle changed, the foot peg mod done, 300 seat mod, chain tensioner mod, the cracks on the gussets welded and the whole package powder coated, the exhaust is also due to head down the road to be opened up cleaned out and repainted.
an alloy bash plate is on order as is an oko carb and 300 seat has been sourced,
I'll be ordering a new coil from Steve Goode this week and a rewind or exchange of the source coil looks a logical move, any info on who and where on this would be appreciated.
No decisions been made on the shocks or the back box but I'm open to any experience based suggestions as the research continues.
I read somewhere in a previous thread about a front brake mod to improve on the standard 240 but the details are elusive any pointers on this would be gratefully received Lee.
Any other pointers or suggestions are always welcome as this is my first fanny
you must have read my mind as my next question was on a more detailed description on how to alter and attatch some modern pegs So thanks for ticking that box,
I had picked these up last month at a classic bike thingy in lanark with that purpose in mind and had been reserching the how to
I did consider sending the frame off to classictrial but as usual budget dictates in these matters, I have a guy I use about 12 miles up the road he's top notch so i dont imagine with your photos and instructions it should take too long I'll have him weld up the cracks while It's in, If thats all they require ?, should they be braced in some way ?,
Shock wise, I was considering a pair of rock shocks there's allways a guy up at the Scottish pre 65 selling them but I dont know of anyone who has them on for review purposes,
So anyone who has any experience with them Please chip in
Ohlins, if money was not a factor absolutely but not this project, I thought about them last year for my CZ but couldent justify the
Well I've decided to throw some money at the old gal as she appears to be a fairly original 1981 240, frame pics attatched chip in if you know better, I had some pics of it before i striped it down but i cant find them.
Engine is now out and heading off this week for a rebuild,
the exhaust is stock front to back with the only dents in the rear silencer
the frame is striped and partly painted but have discovered 2 small cracks in the support plates behind the headstock, quite common I believe,
I have a 200 top yoke waiting for me all be it on the other side of the country for now,
It has the old densi ignition system and a 26mm delorto which needs proper inspection
the wheels are in good shape so just need polished and some new rubber,
I have some decent hight bars to replace the blue ones
the the swinging arm came apart without any trouble and looks to be in good shape,
Its had new cables, brake shoes and levers before i got it it seems,
the only things missing are the kickstart and gear lever rubbers and one side pannel.
As far as I know they're all the same, Munch aka Msport 01438742724 supplied me it when I bought the bike. I think he put Mont bearings in it. I'll photo it next time I see my bike.
A bent rear brake pedal can also cause a problem, you can stand on it with both feet & it still wont work. Best cure for this is to fit a Sherco pedal.
Hi Perce,
From which year or model sherco will the brke pedal fit the RT, are there any modifications required or will it fit straight on ?,
Broke another pedal this weekend so perhaps time for a change.
Where To Buy New Stock Michelins
in General Trials Talk
Posted
Need a Set of Michelins for the weekend, where are doing the best deals for new stock, not x-lite