I'd caution against the idea unless Beta have drastically reduced flywheel weight.
If you were trying to tame a big throbby powerful beast it may be a good idea.... but on a small 2 stroke with low Horsepower... I guess all you'd get would be a sluggish pick up and extra overrun when shut off... which may cause more problems than it solves.
If both bikes have same problem either your very unlucky or it's something common between both bikes.
Looks like you are running premix at 66:1 so have you jetted carb. as less oil = more petrol.
My 2001 TXT200 starts easily and runs OK at 40:1 and when I tried using a 100:1 oil mix ...starting with choke was more 'blubbery' start up and it ran rich and sluggish through most of range...so abandoned that idea ...as I didn't want to go down the rejetting road.
Worth a try at 40:1 on one of them to see if any effect..easy to do and not costly or time consuming.
Don't know about flywheel but very surprised if you find the 99 TXT200 a bit lively... as I assume that heavier flywheel is to calm it down.
Had a 99 TXT 200 and found 2001 '200' similar and slightly better ....as I liked the soft usable power that the 160cc puts out... as I'm an over 50 rider.
Engine completely standard apart from a clutch "clean up" mod that I found in Beta section of site.. excellent instructions... and my mod of only using 3 springs on pressure plate...which is OK for my type and style of riding
Weigh around 83 kilos in riding kit...so I don't think my weight could be a significant factor in flattening our power.
Given what you say about problem suddenly appearing after initially running OK, I'd check out float needle valve seating for debris as suggested by others.
Doubt if float level is the problem unless you adjusted it after oil change. Personally, I'd leave off adjusting float level as it must have been OK in first place given description of problem.
Agree that good practice to shut off fuel tap however it shouldn't be necessary if carb working OK.
In past on numerous occassions I've forgotten to turn off fuel after trial... trailered bike home.. washed it ...run it to dry off without any starting problem... put away for several days and when came to use again fuel tap still open!!...fired up no problem.
Suppose this proves I've a cr*p memory and repeat same mistakes.
Not wanting to be different ..but.. I have always run TXT 200 and KTM 300 Enduro on Putoline MX5 at 40 : 1 .. with no problems whatever. Thats why I've used it for many years.
Still need to lube 'ignition side' main bearing.
Don't notice much smoke either.
Appears to burn cleanly without deposits or gumming
My experience in enduroing KTM 300 for several years was to change gearbox oil after a 2 day event as it 'freshened up' shifting. Just a brief 'nudge' and it would pick up next gear no probs.
I've a 2001 TXT 200 which also 'appears' to benefit from regular gearbox oil changes at 8/10 week intervals.
What type of oil in gearbox.
I've used Putoline GP10 synthetic gearbox oil in every bike I've had for nearly 20 years without a single gearbox or clutch problem.
Thats why I've never changed brand and still use it!!
Appreciate that yours has a different clutch to my 2001 TXT 200.
However, I've just done the Beta mod on the fibre plate tangs (no glue probs with gasgas) as descibed in excellent article in Beta section along with my own mods of 'roughing up' metal plates and removing couple of springs. It has noticably improved all aspects of clutch action so.... highly delighted!!
Again I can only refer to 2001 TXT 200 which can set off on concrete surface incline in 4th gear no probs.... clutch slips and feeds in perfectly then bites and 'locks up'.
To me looks like your clutch is not working properly therefore causing load on gears hence shifting problems.... more noticable going up box.
I would have expected your size engine to pull off in 4th easily ..... which again points to clutch not working.
For what its worth........ only takes time a small outlay ........ Yorkshire men & money ....... I'd try Beta mod + rough up metal plates + GP10 oil.
Not familiar with your type of clutch but assume that it must have some fibre and steel plates running in gearbox oil.
I assume that your master cylinder / lever position is set correctly before you start doing anything - Important.
Agree with comment regarding shifting gasgas box under load...not a practice I would adopt except ...in dire emergency
I'm no expert - starting again after 7 year layoff - but .......
Looks like you may be into the "world of electrics" - could be stator or CDI unit or coil. More likely CDI or coil.
Had problem in 2001 which was CDI unit on near new bike. In my case bike wouldn't even start despite "crappy spark"
Fortunately my son had same bike so swapped bits across to find problem. CDI unit replaced under warranty.
Have you checked wiring for damage and made sure all connections are clean. Costs nothing but time and is always my first check if any electrical probs.
FYI - in 1970,s had an OSSA MAR which had problem of running for 60 mins then stopping for no reason. No spark when tested. Left for 30 mins tested again and spark OK. Miraculously working again without doing anything but wait.. Fired up and off again for 30 mins. Then stop again etc. etc . Turned out to be coil - but from memory I think that Motoplat system had some 'control electronics' built into coil.
I'm no expert - starting again after 7 year layoff - but .......
Essentially,in proocess of "sorting out" 2001 TXT which has also suffered 7 year layof- includes brakes.
Just done front - hope to do rear at weekend.
Used syringe method of "pushing" from bleed nipple up to master cylinder.
To get fluid to flow - trying DOT 5.1 - found that had to open bleed nipple more than anticipated.
This caused fluid to come up thread and leak slightly.
So ...... if sucking not blowing from bleed nipple - would assume that air getting down thread.
As air should move easier than liquid may explain your problem.
FYI front brake was sharp before I started and still is.
Propose to use method for rear as shown on US gasgas site video and if not a success - will try pressurising from bleed nipple with bike front wheel on a beer crate to raise level of master cylinder.
Back brake razor sharp at moment hence still debating as to "leave alone" - only doing it as fluid 2001 vintage - not inspired by your problems.....
2011 EVO 125 fly wheel
in Beta
Posted
Hello
I'd caution against the idea unless Beta have drastically reduced flywheel weight.
If you were trying to tame a big throbby powerful beast it may be a good idea.... but on a small 2 stroke with low Horsepower... I guess all you'd get would be a sluggish pick up and extra overrun when shut off... which may cause more problems than it solves.
david