gasser_david

For what it's worth..... I've always used Putoline GP10 gear oil in my 2001 TXT 200 since.... 2001.... and never had any problems with dragging clutch or any other clutch / gearbox problems. Some say that synthetic oil not a good idea...but works for me. Have to add that also done the "beta" clutch mods as detailed in post on site before I came across the post.....gave the steel plates a good "going over" with orbital sander so that totally matt finish...only downside was clutch initially a bit "grabby" for first couple of hours until it "settled down". As only a 160cc also took out 2 springs.... unsure if good idea with bigger engine. Hope this helps david

May not be of use with newer gasgas clutches but with old style multi plate worthwhile given low cost. Did it to my 2001 in addition to giving the metal plates a good roughing up with orbital sander so that dull matt finish rather than smooth & shiny...another low cost mod. from the old days. As I've a "200" aka 160cc I also took out 2 clutch springs..opinions may vary on this point..but works for me as I'm no Dougie L. I do however have a very smooth engagement 1 finger pull clutch with excellent feel. Bottom line = costs next to nothing apart from time...good Yorkshire mod. Use Putoline GP10 synthetic gear oil..... not cheap.... but used for over 20 years in various bikes

For what it's worth...I've used Putoline GP10 gearbox oil & MX5 @ 40:1 for over 20 years in various off road bikes...never had a problem with either...works for me...

No idea of your flywheel size...but on 2001 TXT 200 I use an old style 'fabric' band car oil filter wrench around perimeter of flywheel with a ring spanner on handle for extra leverage. Unfortunately it's a 2 man job getting it to hold tight while nut 'shocked' loose & when torquing nut back up...unless you have 4 arms... Hope this helps...works for me every time....Occasionally it can slip but persistence pays off..and contact cleaning perimeter of flywheel helps band to bite. david

Hello Thedbf Measurement 1 - Measurement 2 = Static sag Measurement 1 - Measurement 3 = Race sag or what I call 'riding gear' sag as done wearing helmet & boots etc which makes me slightly heavier... When making measurements remember that wheel follows an arc...so I measure from wheel spindle center to a point on rear mudguard at the 11 o-clock point on the LHS so avoiding silencer on RHS. Hope this helps david

Having read my last post...I don't think I made the point clear..not helped by a few beers!! So I'll try again.... Bike on box..rear wheel off ground..in your case you can lift wheel up & down due to linkage play of 20mm. Lift wheel until play taken up and pack with a wood wedge which takes out any play....then make 1st measurement. Stand bike on ground and take 2nd measurement....which should give static sag. Get on bike..bounce a couple of times with usual riding stance and take 3rd measurement...which should give race sag. Over the years I have fully rebuilt my linkage a couple of times with all new parts and even then there is still a small amount of play...which is why I use the wood wedge method to eliminate play from calculations. Hope this makes sense to you david

Hello Emil Should have added the comment about linkage and swingarm bearings been in 'tip top' shape..no binding or play..before doing any type of set up. Seen plenty of trials bikes with around 20mm (3/4 inch) of free play at wheel due to linkage bearings been well worn... Regarding your linkage 'problem'..obviously will have some effect when riding...but when bike on ground any 'play' / 'slop' in linkage will be taken up.. and shouldn't effect difference between static and 'race sag' measurements...unless you measure static sag with rear wheel off ground..then it will make a difference. To quote Bill Clinton...depends on what your definition is...of static sag in this instance... Once had a 87 (I think) Beta TR34 200 where the previous owner had tightened linkage bolts far too tight so that badly binding...which made rear end feel way overdamped and the bike a 'total dog' to ride... as rear end reluctant to move.. so did make a difference....unfortunately I wasted several hours trying to sort it out before I realised what the real problem was. Yet again a reluctance by manufactures to freely give torque settings for linkage bolts etc... which I consider to be important david

Just an observation..but it appears strange that the manufacturer has no detailed recommendations regarding both static and riding gear sag or damping set up. Given the importance of such adjustments upon the handling of the bike..very strange that gasgas don't highlight the importance of getting such settings as correct as possible...as can make a big difference to handling and 'feel'. My old 1991 KTM EXC 300 owners manual devotes numerous A4 pages to sag and rebound/compression damping in different conditions i.e sand and mud etc. plus 'fault finding' info. for handling problems.... so KTM obviously appreciated the importance of getting the settings right ... 20 years ago!!! As delivered from new it handled like a 'sack' ... utter rubbish. Once set up to my weight / body position etc. change was the proverbial night & day. From memory and 'scibbled notes' my TXT 200's settings for riding gear/body position sag are - Rear = about midway between 1/4 and 1/3 i.e. 28-30%. Damping just lighter than mid point. Front = about 1/4 i.e. 24-26% no doubt due to my running more than normal 'forks through top clamp dimension' which obviously 'quickens' steering amongst other things. Damping +2 click compression & -3 click rebound with 2.5 wt oil. Although as Jon points out ... weight on bars is not 100% repeatable on a consistent basis. FYI - not a hopping & a bopping expert..so above suits my old fashioned riding style..may be absolute rubbish for you. Glad to see that I don't appear to be too far off using trial and error adjustment method to obtain settings that I use. Suppose I should recheck them at some point as last done over a year ago. Hope this helps your search for perfection.... david

Hello again Post I was referring to was ...... Gear Oil "Gas Gas TXT250 - Somethings not right?"... which went a bit off topic Jons comments may be of help and useful information. Ironic that my "old faithful" has really soft usable power (but plenty of 'beans' when 'red lined' out) and that a mod is available for new ones to calm them down.. such is progress! david

Thanks for the replies Jan - Think I'll follow your thoughts and NOT ride a newer type..thanks for the offer but Norway is just a bit too far. Rosey - It is a pre pro type which I've had from new & 'religiously' maintained (never had a problem with Gasgas UK where most of spares obtained; unlike others) ... so in mint condition apart from odd dents & scratches on none vital areas. Modded clutch as I was looking for an improvement on existing which as you say was pretty good to start with. J & R - After reading forum posts for a couple of years I assumed that it appears to be better built than newer ones as regards durability, longevity and 'vital' component protection....radiator especially. Charlie - Agree with comment, unfortunately I'm a 'serial messing abouter". Just suffering from 'grass is greener at the other side of the fence' syndrome when I thought about getting a new 2011/12 Decided that "old faithful" is staying along with the cash in my wallet. Post effectively closed now. Once again many thanks....

Hello Just wondered how much; if any; improvement "new" style clutch has over the original multi plate design as on my 2001 TXT 200 from the viewpoint of the 'average Joe'...and not Joe Raga either. FYI haven't ridden a TXT with "new" style clutch. Not interested in the weight saving aspect...more the operational improvements..if any. Having "tuned" my 200's clutch using Beta forum clutch fettling mods & my own 3 springs only mod I find the action and feel faultless...smooth engagement & slippage and easy lever pull...only downside been a tiny amount of unintended slippage in high gear /low revs/tarmac surface which I consider worst case scenario. Unfortunately, I keep suffering the new bike bug urge.....then I look at 'old faithful' and ponder just how much of an improvement it would be...better the devil you know etc. Appreciate that more to it than clutch change over the years...such as frame / suspension etc..... But for my style of riding...no hopping and a skipping here!!!... clutch performance is a priority. Haven't mentioned throttle feel and action a little apparent change over the years. Hope I'm not boring you all to death.... but suffering urge again and looking for reasons not to...Yorkshire values... david

Hello Raised the insert effect on a post some weeks ago.....unfortunately cannot remember post name from which it evolved. Jon gave some interesting info. on the insert usage. david

Hello again Looks like a never ending saga... Sorry to sound like Captain Doomster...but looks like you've discovered how quickly bike spare parts deplete the wallet. No idea how much your 'into it for' money wise so far..and not my business either!! I've been down that road myself with a TY175 for my son several years ago....never ending...you have to make the call yourself for when to stop...before it gets out of control. FYI - years ago a friend restored a Suzuki 'singing kettle' road bike...no idea if you know what it was....ended up a real 'minter' ..only downside was that he had in it over 3 times what was worth..not a good investment!!! I'd have bought it myself were it not for Yorkshire values of not overpaying. I have gone down the 'keep it going route' with my 2001 TXT 200 which is viable as I've had it from new and know it's repair / refurb history....as I noted all repairs made and dates of wearable / maintenance component replacement. A good money saving tip...as it looks like you do with some...not universally agreed up I may add - if you are a pro or do a lot of hopping back and forth etc... is to use a good quality O ring chain... I use Regina..only mod is widening tensioner rubber and tweaking rear sprocket guard - no problem for your Dad given his workshop gear..I don't run front guard..hang over from enduro days...my choice... I know the supposed 'risk'. Chain initial cost higher but can easily last 2-3 years..unless you ride in mud 7 days a week ... plus as chain pitch remains constant it doesn't hammer the sprockets to death..so they last a lot longer too. May sap a bit of power but I've never found it a problem... which is why I've used them for over 20 years Obviously haven't "heard" your latest problem..BUT..you may just get away with a new small end bearing / pin & clips and possibly rings if gap excessive...dependent upon what you find when you 'open it up'. Going back down memory lane...I recall doing this to freshen up top end on various bike types If piston & bore 'shot'..then whole new ball game. If you've made it so far...I assume yours has the old style multi plate clutch..and given your access to Dad I recommend the clutch mod detailed in the Beta section...did it along with my mod of taking out alternate clutch springs...my mod...my choice!!!! and it's beautifully smooth with little effort required and 'nice' feel... occasionally tiny bit of slip at high torque on concrete/tarmac surface in 5th & 6th....can live with that...but for a 250 I'd go with 4 rather than 3 springs. N.B. fitted new springs Finally....without sounding like a boring old duffer....it's refreshing to see both your enthusiasm and Dads ingenuity/fabrication skills...takes me back to the 1970,s trails scene..where having a bike was more than just riding it. Goodnight and good luck david

Unfortunately it is the 'how long is a piece of string' syndrome. I had the unfortunate experiences years ago of submerging Enduro bike up to the 'bars' in welsh bogs ... needing the usual spark plug out..bike upside down..turn rear wheel in top gear to pump out water..then many kicks to restart method. First time with a Husky 390 ..got away with it..no problems for next 2 years of ownership. Second time with KTM 300 ... no problems for 6 months then timing side main bearing failure..stripped down and fortunately crank bearing OK ... just fit new mains & seals. Also know of others who had similar 'some you win some you loose' experiences. Good news ...if you can call it that ... is that several main bearing to one crank failure. Seems to depend on luck really. Your call on whether to strip down.... time and parts cost. If you do ... then may as well do mains & seals... and while you are in there final drive bearing & seal also ... etc. etc. Personally, I'd see how it goes...as costs can mount up quickly All the best

What's all the black stuff in the carb throat...mud?? grit?? bits of disintegrating air filter element. If mud/grit.... then think your next problem will no doubt be mains or crank bearing failure at some point in future. Have you checked that carb to air box rubber OK .. as hard to see that amount of debris passing through air filter element unless that's split or full of holes or not seated properly. Nice 'thinking outside the box' clutch holding device design. david

Plastic hammer. Make sure seal is square & sitting evenly before you start...gently tap into place...keeping eye on it for going in evenly. Easier to do than describe 'how to' do.

Thanks for response Jon Helpful to get 'up to date' with latest developments. When it comes time for a change from 'old yellow'....odds on another gasser.. it certainly helps knowing all factors available for tuning to personal preferences. Given that change not envisaged in immediate future I think that my head insert query just about 'wrapped up'. Thanks again for your time with your input. All the best david

Hello again Jon Although off the original thread of this post...I find your info. on 2 piece head very interesting. Sorry to bother you further but you seem to be 'well up' on this technology of which I know little. Are the inserts in low, medium and high compression with medium the standard fitment or is the range wider. Are alterations to static timing and / or carb jetting required if inserts changed or is it just a straight forward insert swap. Have you come across many riders using this option to adapt power output to their riding style or is it mainly for altitude tuning. Just wondering how many 'ordinary club riders' actually use this potentially useful 'tuning tool'. Takes me back to the 80's when I converted motocross YZ400 monoshock ... which were been sold off new at mega discount.... into enduro trim. Used the extra base gasket + 2 extra head gaskets method to tame the mega explosive power output which only a top rider had a chance of controlling...which was no doubt why they were been sold off cheap. Also some good old Yorkshire "rack of eye and twist of mouth" porting mods as well as a bit of trial and error ignition retarding and carb jetting. Surprisingly it was actually quite a success relative to cost and I kept bike for 3 years. Assume power valves never made it to trials bikes due to weight as I found them very useful in tuning the 'hit' of the power output delivery via simple shim changes on 1990's KTM 300 enduro. Trips down memory lane now halted.... All the best david

Jon Your reply was informative. Forgot about the far larger elevation changes that you have in US. Not a problem in my area of UK. All the best david

Hello Jon Am I reading your post correctly...in that you couldn't get standard 'O' rings for a new bikes head?? Pretty poor job by importer in my opinion...as not exactly an expensive spare part to stock!! Not familiar with 2 part head..but seems a step backwards to me..just another thing to go wrong..although I stand corrected if I'm talking rubbish david

Totally agree with you Scoobydo. Getting a bit like digital cameras been 'new & improved' every 6 months or so. Will 2013 MY be introduced in July 2012 if 'race' to get new bikes out first continues. Doesn't really bother me as still on 'yellow' 2001 MY ....really like yellow!! david

Completely agree with above post. Just wonder how many would actually finish SSDT if it were run on old high mileage route and how many expensive repairs would be needed along the way to do so.

Chewy.. I agree with your comments about the supply chain in the UK. Getting back to the problem...from my past dealings with sale of goods act...1st port of call is the dealer who supplied it and presumably made a profit on the sale ..not the importer. Legally you do not have a 'contact' with the importer unless you purchased from them direct. If the dealer supplied it... take it up with them... although my experience with dealers is that some try to avoid it and confuse the issue with the old smoke screen and mirrors tactic. Do not be distracted...be firm about the issue. Before I get flamed by dealers I'm not saying that they all are the same. Like anything in life ...some good... some bad and all it takes is a couple of bad ones..

Pretty poor service which doesn't do much for brand loyalty. Could understand it....if you had destroyed rear of silencer in a crash. My old 2001 TXT has ally end cap which I suppose is 1 blob of mud heavier than plastic ...which I can live with..as it lasts. If no one else with same bike has same problem...then yours must have been defective...and should be replaced FOC Out of interest how much for a new bit of plastic...more than a couple of quid I bet... which is really all it should cost.

Obviously best option to find leak and resolder. However next best option is to try sealant method. Personally not a radweld fan, as used twice on "problem" car and didn't cure problem of small leak. Used a product on later car with similar problem.... contained copper coloured particles in a clear liquid...cannot remember name..will look in garage to see if any left.. which worked. Suppose that's the downside of running 15 year old cars with 15 year old rads.... Note that once you've added some 'gunk' or other it's deposits are in there forever.. Could try old 'hole in tube' trick if you have a way of pressurising rad whilst underwater...not with rad still on bike though!! Hope this helps as I know what a pain it can be. david