gasser_david

Hello I'd caution against the idea unless Beta have drastically reduced flywheel weight. If you were trying to tame a big throbby powerful beast it may be a good idea.... but on a small 2 stroke with low Horsepower... I guess all you'd get would be a sluggish pick up and extra overrun when shut off... which may cause more problems than it solves. david

Hello If both bikes have same problem either your very unlucky or it's something common between both bikes. Looks like you are running premix at 66:1 so have you jetted carb. as less oil = more petrol. My 2001 TXT200 starts easily and runs OK at 40:1 and when I tried using a 100:1 oil mix ...starting with choke was more 'blubbery' start up and it ran rich and sluggish through most of range...so abandoned that idea ...as I didn't want to go down the rejetting road. Worth a try at 40:1 on one of them to see if any effect..easy to do and not costly or time consuming. david

Hello Is fan running when it boils up... david

Hello Don't know about flywheel but very surprised if you find the 99 TXT200 a bit lively... as I assume that heavier flywheel is to calm it down. Had a 99 TXT 200 and found 2001 '200' similar and slightly better ....as I liked the soft usable power that the 160cc puts out... as I'm an over 50 rider. Engine completely standard apart from a clutch "clean up" mod that I found in Beta section of site.. excellent instructions... and my mod of only using 3 springs on pressure plate...which is OK for my type and style of riding Weigh around 83 kilos in riding kit...so I don't think my weight could be a significant factor in flattening our power. Have you got slow action twist grip? How is carb set up? david

Getting back to your original question of 'glue' as a solution. Years ago had problem with 'tyre creep' despite 2 security bolts on KTM300. Problem solved by using Evostick (red tin type) to glue bead to rim. Downside of this method is changing tyre at a later date - as the fix obviously makes 'bead breaking' harder. Upside was problem solved for a couple of quid for 500ml of Evo. david

Did cleaning float needle valve seating cure problem. If not then have you contacted gasgas UK to see what they have to say as to cause / cure.

In a word....No. I've 2001 TXT200 and gasket works fine with a light coat of waterproof grease on both surfaces. Just nip it up..not too tight as plastic cover. No idea if same gasket & cover on yours.

Given what you say about problem suddenly appearing after initially running OK, I'd check out float needle valve seating for debris as suggested by others. Doubt if float level is the problem unless you adjusted it after oil change. Personally, I'd leave off adjusting float level as it must have been OK in first place given description of problem. Agree that good practice to shut off fuel tap however it shouldn't be necessary if carb working OK. In past on numerous occassions I've forgotten to turn off fuel after trial... trailered bike home.. washed it ...run it to dry off without any starting problem... put away for several days and when came to use again fuel tap still open!!...fired up no problem. Suppose this proves I've a cr*p memory and repeat same mistakes.

How old is bike Was it OK when new Did problem suddenly appear

Not wanting to be different ..but.. I have always run TXT 200 and KTM 300 Enduro on Putoline MX5 at 40 : 1 .. with no problems whatever. Thats why I've used it for many years. Still need to lube 'ignition side' main bearing. Don't notice much smoke either. Appears to burn cleanly without deposits or gumming

A low maintenance simple design 4 st. would no doubt appeal to some clubman class riders. The 2 st. is obviously a popular clubman bike. Must have some redeeming feature..... I chose TXT 200 because of power type & delivery which suited me. Each to their own is my motto Agree that economics has to come into it especially with present / future? recession.. Apart from minor "tinkering" I doubt that there will be any major design changes / radical ideas from anyone. Existing castings will be no doubt be kept going for both metal and plastic parts, to avoid unnecessary retooling costs.

Looks a tidy bike for age. Have one myself. I'd check rubber inlet manifold for splitting.... sometimes not obvious as manifold very short. Only 100% way to do it is to remove and closely examine. If rad checked cold and level just below neck and nothing been pushed out when warmed up it should be OK. I replaced and extended short original overflow pipe so that it's over cylinder head bolt. Can easily see if any coolant expelled. Looks like you are in USA so surprised that you dont use Trialspart USA for parts. Site is excellent and well worth a visit

No idea what's happened to it. Assume that gasgas not releasing it until it's sorted Congrats. to gasgas designer for 'thinking outside the box' and not following the well trodden OHC route with all it's complexity.... My lawn mower engine based on same design principle has 'run forever' with nothing more than routine servicing...Simple and reliable. Just the job for trials use.

Thanks for responses; especially PDF. For some reason assumed cost would be far higher than

Hello All in UK Don't really know where to post but assumed that some gasgas rider would know. Last rode trials in 2002.. instantly stopped due to injury.. about to start again. What's the current postion regarding trials licence. As just giving it a try for a couple of trials to see if injury now OK. Can you get day membership of ACU for riding a single trial. Don't mind paying club membership fee but not too keen on paying for a licence I may only use once or twice. Thanks

When was gearbox oil last changed. My experience in enduroing KTM 300 for several years was to change gearbox oil after a 2 day event as it 'freshened up' shifting. Just a brief 'nudge' and it would pick up next gear no probs. I've a 2001 TXT 200 which also 'appears' to benefit from regular gearbox oil changes at 8/10 week intervals. What type of oil in gearbox. I've used Putoline GP10 synthetic gearbox oil in every bike I've had for nearly 20 years without a single gearbox or clutch problem. Thats why I've never changed brand and still use it!! Appreciate that yours has a different clutch to my 2001 TXT 200. However, I've just done the Beta mod on the fibre plate tangs (no glue probs with gasgas) as descibed in excellent article in Beta section along with my own mods of 'roughing up' metal plates and removing couple of springs. It has noticably improved all aspects of clutch action so.... highly delighted!! Again I can only refer to 2001 TXT 200 which can set off on concrete surface incline in 4th gear no probs.... clutch slips and feeds in perfectly then bites and 'locks up'. To me looks like your clutch is not working properly therefore causing load on gears hence shifting problems.... more noticable going up box. I would have expected your size engine to pull off in 4th easily ..... which again points to clutch not working. For what its worth........ only takes time a small outlay ........ Yorkshire men & money ....... I'd try Beta mod + rough up metal plates + GP10 oil. Not familiar with your type of clutch but assume that it must have some fibre and steel plates running in gearbox oil. I assume that your master cylinder / lever position is set correctly before you start doing anything - Important. Agree with comment regarding shifting gasgas box under load...not a practice I would adopt except ...in dire emergency Hope this helps david

Thanks for reply Jon I'll give ready mix Putoline 70% and Water wetter 30% a try. Got to be better than what's in at present. david

Hello All Slowly getting bike sorted for trials use again after 7 year layoff Coolant is original 2001 vintage so needs changing. Previously used Putoline 'ready mixed' in KTM Enduro for years so tempted to stick with it. However, I have some unopened Redline 'water wetter' from abandoned project which needs mixing with undilute antifeeze. Any suggestions

Hello I'm no expert - starting again after 7 year layoff - but ....... Looks like you may be into the "world of electrics" - could be stator or CDI unit or coil. More likely CDI or coil. Had problem in 2001 which was CDI unit on near new bike. In my case bike wouldn't even start despite "crappy spark" Fortunately my son had same bike so swapped bits across to find problem. CDI unit replaced under warranty. Have you checked wiring for damage and made sure all connections are clean. Costs nothing but time and is always my first check if any electrical probs. FYI - in 1970,s had an OSSA MAR which had problem of running for 60 mins then stopping for no reason. No spark when tested. Left for 30 mins tested again and spark OK. Miraculously working again without doing anything but wait.. Fired up and off again for 30 mins. Then stop again etc. etc . Turned out to be coil - but from memory I think that Motoplat system had some 'control electronics' built into coil. david

Hello I'm no expert - starting again after 7 year layoff - but ....... Essentially,in proocess of "sorting out" 2001 TXT which has also suffered 7 year layof- includes brakes. Just done front - hope to do rear at weekend. Used syringe method of "pushing" from bleed nipple up to master cylinder. To get fluid to flow - trying DOT 5.1 - found that had to open bleed nipple more than anticipated. This caused fluid to come up thread and leak slightly. So ...... if sucking not blowing from bleed nipple - would assume that air getting down thread. As air should move easier than liquid may explain your problem. FYI front brake was sharp before I started and still is. Propose to use method for rear as shown on US gasgas site video and if not a success - will try pressurising from bleed nipple with bike front wheel on a beer crate to raise level of master cylinder. Back brake razor sharp at moment hence still debating as to "leave alone" - only doing it as fluid 2001 vintage - not inspired by your problems..... david

I was also told this week that no piston / seal kit available anymore. Saving grace is that I as also told that 'pro' type replacement cylinder unit bolts straight on and is cheaper than TXT type. I refering to 2001 TXT 200 - no idea what frame is like on yours

Thanks for the info. from you all. I'll price up IRC out of interest. Unless substantially cheaper will most likely stick with Mitchelin. Once used Pirelli F&R on Beta TR34 200 10 years ago and unfortunately discovered that grip "didn't exist" on anything. Good to see Yorkies well represented! Muddy spot I was refering to was Tong! I'll have to do a more detailed profile.

Hello Getting a 2001 TXT 200 ready for trialing again. Bike has been laid up for 8 years. Rear tyre which is original fitment has cracks in rubber. It's OK for messing about on but needs sorting. Front tyre; also original fitment, appears OK - strange!! Rear tyre needs replacing........... so is Michelin still the best. Seen references on various sites to IRC brand - from memory; I think! Use 'steam powered' modem so not on site every day. Appreciate a response from active riders. Clubs I will join vary from mud to hard going / rocky going so need a 'do-it-all' tyre; not the best in mud but rubbish in anything else or whatever type. Thanks david