yea thats the line i was thinking stupid not to have done those seals ,the plug did look chocolate in colour i thought that was an improvement from the usual black ha ha!! will order and fit see how it goes thanks very much for your reply murray
hi guys put new main bearings in yesterday ,seemed ok,ran engine up felt it was overheating but as you do entered trial today ,ok first lap then stopped . and will not start ,has electronic ignition ,199 model ,plenty power, and spark ,but did NOT replace crank seals ,question would this cause the over heating due to air leak kind regards murray
Hello all. On a Sherpa T I have found that if you use a gasket on either the ignition or the primary cases and you hit a rock or log it will split the gasket. I learned this the hard way many years ago. So now I only use Silastic (Silicon). Now if you hit something it tends to just move without breaking the seal. Bully Lover.
well thanks guys going with the silicone the now ,but have ordered a gasket to hold in reserve, will suck it and see as they say ,cant see us out much till next year anyway thanks again and merry Christmas
Two is standard these days, no problem to fit another one, usually about 120 degrees between each rim lock and valve. Look carefully before you drill the rim that it's not at the joint, and also that you will have enough space to get a spanner/socket on the nut.
well thanks for that speedy reply i shall get one right away i think threr is a hole already there kind regards murray
hi guys going to fit a new tyre soon ,i notice i only have one rim lock on the rear tyre is this OK i have not experienced any slip on the tyre (sherpa 1976) regards Murray
Well guys new foot pegs now on. They were sourced from Bultaco UK universal foot pegs with weld on brackets. I had to hacksaw the old knuckles off the bottom. I found the kick start side to be a wee bit awkward, I then welded in a stop plate to stop the kick start from wrapping on the foot peg but the other side was was fairly straightforward. It feels really good but we will see how it goes at the next trial. Thanks for all your help.
well guys thanks for the input,one thing i know is am going to strip every bit of the electronic ignition out before any welding,doesn't look like its just a case of buying pegs and a simple wee weld job then, will have to have a wee think about it all ,thanks again that's what i like about the Internet there are guys with bultacos all round the world willing to chip in kind regards Murray
Electric welding can wreck electronic ignition so if you are having any welding done on it, disconnect the stator from the CDI and the CDI from the HT coil to be on the safe side (or just the stator from the HT coil if the coil is combined CDI/coil.
With points it doesn't matter.
As regards footrests, yes it was a mod to fit Pursang rests back in the day but footrests have come on a long way since then. They are a bit longer but don't offer any more grip to your boot as they are identical to Sherpa rests. Being longer there is more chance to snag them too. The only advantage is that they are a straight swap.
For modern rests, welding of some fashion will be required as they won't bolt straight on. Usually it involves cutting off the old mounts and welding on the new ones that go with whichever footrests you buy. Which, is personal choice - as is the positioning of them - same place or lower down level with the bashplate/frame tubes (you can't lower Bulto rests much anyway) Welding can be done by using MIG, TIG, ARC or brazing. Doesn't matter which.
Hello mur, I`m not to sure on the footpegs but a common mod back in the day was to put Pursang footpegs on the Sherpa`s. They are not any wider but they are longer so more foot area. I have always just pulled the spark plug cap off when welding on a Bultaco of any type and never had any hassles. Good luck Bully Lover.
hello guys thinking of replacing original foot pegs for wider ones, can anyone tell me where to buy and if welding is required must this be done with a MiG welder,and is this a difficult mod to do also when welding does the whole ignition system have to be removed or say the gubbins below the tank only(electronic ignition)thank you in advance Murray
hi there the carb is kind of new old stock if that makes sense,the only annoying thing is the fuel banjo is on the inside (right)but no big deal,will put new jet in see if it stops me falling off as easily thanks for your advice
thanks Pete ordered 40 jet today ,will attempt carb tune at the weekend it is a 199 engine,i am no expert just others telling me the bike sounds a bit flat ,she feels brilliant to me with the new ignition ,once again thanks for your help Pete
Fitted with Bing a 40 pilot jet is standard for model 199-A, should improve the response
if you live and ride in normal altitude.
The 3/4 of a turn open is the standard position of the air screw a good position to sttart for further fine adjusting.
For getting an clue where there might be a jetting issue or some adjustment needed here is a drawing that shows wich component is responsible for the gas-air mixture at different throttle positions.
You can mark them to your throttle grip for fine adjusting of the carb, like shown here.
Take a light sloping road, around 600m at just ride up with constant throttle position, if the engine is running like a four stroke than he runs too fat/rich, on the other hand if the engine is pinging, it's to lean, (If your hear the motor pinging abort further riding / change throttle position, (running the engine too lean is unhealthy for the engine).
: hello guys i have a 350 sherpa with a bing carb ,it has a pilot jet 35 was wondering if a 40 jet would improve the bike .the air screw is only 3/4 of a turn open and the plug tends to become black easily ,wondered what jets you guys are using ,also put in electronic ignition and the difference in pickup is unbelievable regards mur
hello guys i have recently taken up trials riding and upgraded the old lady (sherpa 350)as best i can and she has become a phoenix its just me that's rubbish,the question i have, apparently my handlebars are like a"" heiland coo!!""so i chopped an inch and a half off each side , much better but an told still wrong angle ,i have decided to buy a renthal bar with a height of 5.5 inch,does this sound like a reasonable idea ,the frame is 159,regards Murray
thanks to all you guys for the help and will try adjusting carb tomorrow,having a wee bit of trouble getting timing down to 2.8, the stator plate all the way over in the slot gives me 3 and a wee bit before top deck centre, think this will do?? thanks again MUR
Ok I went through this before a few weeks back on another post. On the Bing carb it uses an "air screw" . When turning the screw out from the carb it is adding more air to the fuel mix causing it to be leaner. Turning the screw in lessens the amount of air causing it to have more fuel or rich. 3/4 turn out is a good starting point. Basically start there and turn the screw out slowly, you may or may not notice that the engine starts to run more evenly and the idle speed will rise. This is fine just turn the idle down and adjust again until the lowest stable possible idle is achieved. Don't worry if its 1.5 turns out. if it runs good there then fine. But if it runs better all the way in then you need a larger pilot jet . If it runs better at lets say 2.5 turns out you may wanta leaner pilot jet. It is important to differentiate between a fuel mix screw and an air mix. otherwise you will be going the wrong direction with jetting changes.
hello again i noticed from previous posts that the setting is 3/4 turns out from closed ,i shall try this, she just seems to run hot,also will put in new points and filter and do timing at 2.8 before,just trying to bring the old girl up to trial level thanks anyway mur
kind regards murray
well thanks guys going with the silicone the now ,but have ordered a gasket to hold in reserve, will suck it and see as they say ,cant see us out much till next year anyway thanks again and merry Christmas
hi guys just a wee question --i have used silicone gasket sealer on magneto casing instead of the normal gasket is this OK kind regards Murray
Engine Overheat
in Bultaco
Posted
yea thats the line i was thinking stupid not to have done those seals ,the plug did look chocolate in colour i thought that was an improvement from the usual black ha ha!! will order and fit see how it goes thanks very much for your reply murray