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mattknox2008

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Posts posted by mattknox2008
 
 
  1. Try your beta importer for a parts kit.

    I recently had the same problem and my shock guru could not sorce the parts,

    I managed to sorce the bladder through a dealer. It was sold as part of a paoli shock rebuild kit.

    My shock was out of an 07 but the bladder looked the same.

    Importer also gave me details of oil viscocity and gas presure.

  2. I have pulled my bike apart to do small end and rings, but in the process forgot to take note of the orintation of the cut out in the piston skirt does this face the intake port or exust port?

    Note there is no arrow on my piston as the beta manual sugests there should be.

    07 rev3 270

    cheers

  3. I have completely bled my rear brakes 3 times already for various reasons. I know I should struggle bleeding it from what I have read, but actually every time has gone very easy. I use a combination of sucking and pushing the fluid with the syringe. It is a couple minute job.

    I second that.

    I remove the push rod from rear brake making sure the piston inside the master cylinder retracks all the way out.

    Remove the fluid resorvar from the hose running down to mastercylinder.

    Fill seringe (big one) with fluid and attach a peice of clear tube that fitts snugly into the hose that you just disconected the resorvar from and zip tie it to improve seal.

    Push pistins all the way inside caliper.

    Fit clear pipe to caliper end and run it into a container to catch fluid.

    Open bleed nipple.

    Now begin to push fluid using the seringe it will be ferm to push but should move. If fluid wont flow recheak mastercylinder pistin is not sticking.

    Once all the air bubbles have stoped coming, close bleed nipple and cheak brake for presure (pumping push rod/lever for 20 pumps with something wedged inbetwn the pistons in the caliper until ferm).

    When you are happy remove the hose from the mastercylinder end and reinstall resorvar, cheak fluid level.

    Reasemble and go ride.

    Once you have mastered this method it is quite literaly a 5 min job.

    I also like the ideas of prefilling caliper and pushing the fluid back out to prime.

    Hope this helps someone

  4. Just got my 2006 Beta 250cc Rev 3 this week and had my first little play about with it this afternoon and until it got very well warmed up, as soon as you put it in to gear with the clutch pulled right in, it just lurched forward and you couldnt keep it still with the clutch lever pulled right in. So I have been on here searching about it as I am totally new to trials bikes and never had anything like this with my road bikes, and I see that this sort of clutch issue is a common occurance. Found this thread though and read through the instructions and it sounds easy enough to do and is very well explained. Going to give it a try in the next couple of weeks and see what happens (going to go give the bike a proper ride though this week before I start the lengthy process).

    Maybe make sure your clutch is properly bleed and the oil is fresh.(I can feel it after dozen or so rides the oil starts to "go off". dx 3 atf works well and is cheap.

  5. Hi Photoboy,

    The starting procedure i used for my rev3 was:

    1 open fuel tap

    2 open choke (only required on cold days, would often start without)

    3 throttle closed (i think that full throttle shuts of the fuel completely - but i could be wrong)

    4 find compression on lever, kick hard as possible / repeat - giving small blip on throttle until it fires

    5 blip for couple of seconds and shut the choke (if used).

    6 then ride...

    If that doesn't work i would whip the carb off and give it a good clean.

    Good luck.

    I second that. also if you think its flooded then use full throttle.

  6. I have an 07 270 and its a great bike.

    cheak rear shock has damperning,(when you push down on rear suspension it returns in a controld manner rather then like a pogo stick) and that it is not leaking oil.

    the water pump corrosen is covered under warrenty here in new zealand even on 2nd hand bikes so the importer tells me. the easy answer if this is a problem is to replace it with an aluminum case rather then magnesium and never worry again.

  7. Awsome that makes alot of sense. Did they give you any tips on what oil and weight to use?

    Silver damper rod is the main rod up the center that you can see when you look through the spring. Basicly when the spring is off the shock this should still have alot of restance when you try push it down and return to the top on its own.

  8. I'm after Information on rebuilding a Paoili rear shock on an 07 rev.

    Planning on rebuilding it myself and taking it down the road to get regas'd (Have spent years rebuilding mountain bike shocks in the bike industry). but can't find any info on shock oil wt and voloume etc.

    If any one can help with this and any tips with these shocks would be very helpfull

    Thanks

    matt

 
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