pschrauber

Here is a vid about the sitting down method for starting works for both kicker sides! How to start a trialsbike

I have my kicker around 10:30 which works fine for starting and riding too. You might hit the footpeg with your kicker that is a goemetrical fact. To mount the kicker at noon is a little bit too far back and starting might get not so easy. (For starting I turm the handlebar to the right, then search befor OT place the left feet, knee bent and sit down, (best way to start IMHO), got her running art least at second kick). The "quite" kick must be when the piston is getting from downwards to upwards I believe, otherwise it must be a four stroke you have ???

A little bit play back and forth is OK and should be. Any play to the side would be bad, when you have deassambled the oil seal you can better detect if the bearing runs "rough" or if there is any "play" to the sides which I do not belive. The bearing runs in gearbox oil there is rarly an issue there if the oil was changed reagulary.

Oh this sounds interesting so you have three Bultacos, that is nearly a flock. Any pic's to show up?

If you want to split the cases, get a workshop manual, there it's written up how to do. But as already stated it should only be done if you really need it. It has a reason why Bultaco has placed all the bearings to the gearbox and the crankshaft seals on the outside of the case. They just fail more often then the inner parts. Already when not heating up the cases the right way when splitting or remounting the cases can get you in trouble. Remember: You said beside the issues the engine is running great in your former postings, so why change a running system?

I personal would not split the engine cases if not really needed, this takes much time and effort and the possibility to do it the wrong way if you are not used to it is very high. Here a drawing and some the photos where the oil seal is located: The red piece is the oil-seal, #43, the orange part is the o-ring, #18, the green piece is the distance bush, #19: How it looks with unmounted clutch and primary chain and flywheel: A close up of the bearing and the distance bush, the o-ring is sadly not seen the photo is a little bit fuzzy:

Yes it*s possible, you find the seal under the clutch basket, there is a distance bush then an o-ring thereafter the oil seal. You need an oil- seal puller to get it out. Pic's will follow.

I have no real clue, may be you mounted the distance bush # 17 wrong? Here is the assembly order to the 199 model: # 46 spring clip # 45 oil seal 14x20x3 # 40 ball bearing # 17 o-ring # 21 distance bush # 43 oil seal 30x40x7 # 29 countershaft sprocket # 23 sleeve gear fixing washer # 22 sleeve gear fix

Here a pic from the manual, as you see they did not use very special or thick material either. I dom't had any hole in the nut to safty or lock wire the flywheel weight. Here a pic when I took the clutch cover away. When I got the bike the seller stated he never wrenched on the bike, because he has two left hands when it comes to technical maintance. (which must have been true, every bolt and nut was original and untouched.). The original wiring of the clutch wasn't very aesthetic or in any systematical order. I wrapped the end of the wires after drilling a little bit around the second wire just to get sure it will not move due to centrifugal force. The wire just holds the nut in place nothing more, if it is made out of stainless steal, St 1.4571 of V4A, the strengh should be around 600N/mm

As you have already found out any garden wire stuff has not the right strength and flexibility you will need. I take safty wire from KTM but I think every stainless steel safty wire will work. To the thickness of the wire and the clutch: I used one wire and leaded it through the holes of the nuts just two times to be safty the nuts will not turn around. This worked very well:

Your kick-start return spring issue got curios in my view, please can you post a pic of your recent setup?

That your spring does not have the right tension to move the kick start foreward sounds strange. It is nearly impossilbe to mount the spring the wrong way. When You have mounted the front end pin of the spring in the hole of the kick-start shaft the other end of the spring should unmounted point at 5'o or 6'o clock. When mounting the rear end you tense the spring. May be the ends of the spring had not the right angle between them, may be the tension of the spring isn't good enough. BTW. Due to the bending getting the spring inside the hole it is recommended not to use the spring after remounting again. (to cold deform spring steel isn't a really good for the material property).

Often the front sprocket seal is leaking because the tiny ventilation hole for the gear box is clogged with debris. Befor you do another replacement, please look after if the tiny hole in your engine located in the center of the red circle in picture is free. If not the warm gearbox oil and the reminding air inside produce a over pressure. Normally the standard oil seals works fine.

The long spacer goes between rear hub and speedo drive, the smaller one between speedo drive and swing arm/rocker: Some speedo drives have the long spacer already attached, like here: all parts shown here goes to the speedo drive: - first the thin washer in the middle top, - then the rotatable arm in the right, - then the cover cap. The washer or spacer between speedo drive and swingarm is not shown in the pic, this spacer is about 3mm thick.

If the chain shows excessiv wear then replace it. You can replace the crank shaft seal underneath the flywheel weight if the seal is already some years old. To replace the chain you have to deassanble the flywheel and the clutch together with the chain at once. The chain is endless there is no chain link mounted

You will need some special tools to get the clutch and even the flywheelweight deassambled. A clutch basket holder, then a puller for the flywheel weight. As already mentioned here (post #9): Posting #9 to your ping-ping question Befor deassambling completly and also afterwards you have mounted the chain and the clutch flywheel assembly again, you will check the assambly by turning the flywheel by hand just to determine the flywheel weight turns centered, the chain is running aligned with the clutch sprocket, ... I would also check the tensioner for wear, the plastic wheel might have deep track marks. It is recommend to replace the wheel and the spring of tensioner after a rebuild.

The spokes don't have any direct contact with the rims. Between rim and spoke you have the nipples. These should original are made out of alloy. If you only order new spokes, be sure the threads between the spokes and the old nipples fit. Very important: get spokes with rolled threads not cutted onces. If the thread are cutted or milled the spoke will loose much of the strength.

Paint stripper works also very nice and keep the stamped logos at the alloy fork sliders. If you still want blasting the fork sliders: To protect the threads where you bleed the forks, here you can take old bolts that you afterwards can unscrew. To the oil seals you can leave the old oil seals inside for protecting. The bore for the front axle I would protect wich some flat wachers and a bolt + nut. For the paint job there was already information given by the former posters. New oil seals is a good idea, as already stated put them in after the paint job.

To the "ping-ping noise" the frequency of the pings are linked to the rpm? While assembling my the engine I replaced the flywheel weight on the clutch side and mounted a lighter one. The lighter flywheel was NOS. The sprocket had some edges so the primary chain did not fit well first. After grinding the adgesaway the chain runs free and without any snappy noise while turning from hand. Did you probably replaced your flywheel weight too? I would also take the clutch cover off and take a deep second look. Would also turn the the engine by nad without plug to see if there is no issue with the primary drive, very curios this "ping-ping noise"???

Even if the diameter of the nut thread matches to the thread of the axle. The thread pitch or lead has to match too. And it is not easy to determine the thread of a nut without a thread gauge. May be Bondy should call them (Bultaco UK) up and tell them his problem, may be he got the wrong nut and he can exchange the nut against one that fit.

There might be resources in the UK too, I get my bolts and nuts from them: bolts, nuts, ... Here are the nut spec's where you can compare to your needs. spec's Try this ressource in the UK ???: nuts shop They look at least like castle nuts, but - no information of the strength of the used steel, (you get nuts in strength from 4.6, 5.6, 8.8, 10.9 and 12.9, you need at least 8.8) - no good information about the threads, (should be a fine thread! (Feingewinde Typ M)).

Looks nice and sorted, good luck for the further rebuild!

inventory list protection springs I would also recommend careful routing, but if your really want a spring for your clutch cable, I would take push springs made out of stainless steel, they look like the one the Yamaha bikes have. Here you are: spring manufactor push springs Here a list of their push springs they have stock, maybe the right diamension is stock available, you can order just one spring!: inventory list push springs Then they produce also special springs for cable protection: spring manufactor cable protection springs Here there list of stock protection springs, again you can order only one spring: spring manufactor push springs If there is not the spring with the dimension you want to have, they can also fabricate (only) one spring to your special needs, (BTW: they are a very good ressource for springs).

I saw this thread now. To the forks of the 125 and 175cc TY: I still have my first bigger trialsbike a TY 125 from 1979. The only major repair I ha to do was to replace bent stanchions after a front flip crash, (back then spare parts where still available,it shouuld have been around 1985/86 I believe. I now will give the bike it's first service after 32 years + the bike will get a forks pair of a mono TY 250. The frontend will be heavier, the weehlbase will also be sligtly longer, then I need a new front rear axle, some bushings the triple clamps of the mono too with some conversions to fit them to the older TY. But all this will be cheaper as a straightenin of bent stanchions and then a rechroming. (had my lessons here while restoring the Bultaco). So if you can gett the bigger forks of the 250 or the mono 250 with truples, replace them IMHO. Much better steering feel, much more durable and better action (mono) too, The weightgain is nearly not remarkable the better steering is vey well.