bondy

hello nearly there just waiting for tank to be painted should have it soon. will up load photos when its done.

cracking job joe ive just put same plates in my 198A same hear no drag or slip on the kickstart. took me a while to set up but like you am happy with it. carb looks good nice to hear you got it sorted. bikes looking good and ready for Acton.

hi stu i was told by a few now not to bother with them. my 198A as you know as a mikuni and runs great with it. the oko was for my 198B but i have another new mikuni just needs jeteting for the 250

Hello guys thanks for the info i spoke to inmotion.today am going to stay with mikuni it is runing very well with the mikunii was going to put 1 on my 198B but ill go with a mikuni cheers.

hello any body no if the oko carbs are any better than the mikuni?

i dont know off the top off my head ill have a look in the manual.

hello again its just the green and black wires you need the others just fold back and tap them up. green is earth black is ignition as you say. if you have got good earth and its wired up correct then it must be the points or timing or condenser.

welcome mate if its a 199 should have the number 199 in the long number.have you checked the engine number to see if its the same? if theres no spark dont be to quick to think its the timming could be something simple like the plug cap may need cleaning or not connecting may be cut a small bit off the end off the coil wire. this happend to me once no spark so i cut a small bit off the wire and it sparked. failing that then check the wiring. may be a brake in the wiring or the kill switch if it as 1 has not be wired up correct. or it may not be earthed. all things you should check before timing and points hope this helps.

when you say the inner bearing race is spinning on the crank shaft. do you mean the outer edge off the bearing is spinning in the race off the crank case? if so that means the bearing race is worn? this can happen when the bearing has been taken out lots off time without heating the case up enough to allow the case to expand.

hi all just put the chain guard on tank going for respray in the morning

had the bike running sounds sweet as a nut thanks to my mate pat for rebuilding the bottom end all that needed doing now is tank seat and a few finishing touches ive just put some helicopter tape on the frame to stop boot rub may be it wont last long but looks good for now. all so new S/S hose clips on order for the Air box boot and inlet manifold. tank still needs paint so that will be going in soon.

hello i have sorted it i hadnt checked the op Arm the ball was well worn lucky i had another with a good ball i know tou can put new ball in the end off the clutch Arm but ive never dont it so not sure. clutch is set up as best as i could get it. seems to be ok everthing is new so needs runing in. thanks guys for your help.

nearly finished still got some work but i started the bike today for the first time started 2nd kick sounds nice and sweet.just to get the tank fitted few tweecks then of to the paint shop.

mines the 198A later model theres a grub screw in the center as well as the spring nuts the problem is the center ajuster grub screw it as to be more or less all the way in to touch the push rod and ball. there are enough threads to tighten the out lock nut but i just want to get advice as ive never come across this before the push rod is the correct lenth i will doubel check also i think the friction plates may be a thicker pack to the all metal and may be that the cause off the ajustment.

hello any body fitted the friction plates? ive carefully ajusted the clutch. but the grub screw is nearly all the way in to ajust it. i gess the pack is thicker then the all metal plates would i be ok in taking the last outer plate out not the friction plate the metal 1 that goes on last so may be get more ajustment? for got to say the pull rod is the correct lenth and new ball in place.

woody is correct i had a 350 piston with just 1 big small end bearing and no spacers. ive just had a rebore on my 250 i was lucky to to get an orignal MAHLE piston.

just a thought have you checked the carb jets to see if there the correct size?

i have a mikuni it has brass peice fitted to the Airbox intake side the seal on the rubber boot is alot better.

i did want some off those rolling needel bearings for the S/Arm i ended up geting orignal ones. but the 198A i ham restoring dose have the converon kit in. i just think there easy to fit yourself and take out saves money having them pressed out.

hi boghopper yes he is a nice man i will ask him. i was going to ask him but i think he is bussy. cheers any way

does any body know where i can buy a magnetic sump bolt from for my 198A M8? ive looked but they seem to be M10 up wards somewhere must do them cheers bondy.

hello saw miller the later crank seal holders look like these.

thanks scot should have it finished soon just waiting for the barrel to be rebored. exhaust has been repacked new carb and new Airbox and filter. oh and the new alloy tank that needs painting so may take abit longer to finish but nearly there cheers bondy.

more photos

glade you got it out mate. you any idea what i can use to stop the side stand spring on the 198A rubbing on the S/Arm?