hi all whats the best size spocket to have on me 199A? i curantly have the standard 39T rear and the 11T front. ive not done any trials since i was at school. that was along time a go ah. will the ones ive got on now be ok for a beginer?
hi thanks for your reply. feels like im going made. ive tryed about 4 seals now. the oil leak is comming from. between the seal and shaft. must say i may have put a wee bit to much oil in. but it wasnt alot more.also i didnt change the bearing. only the seal and o ring and bush behide the sprocket.
much help needed. ive just finished my 199A and my front sprocket is leaking. so i changed the seal behind the front sprocket and the o ring and the metal bush. i replaced the sprocket and it was still leaking. it is leaking from the final end drive. so i replaced the seal on the end of the gear shaft. it is still leaking slightly but can you advise that this is normal for bultacos?
hi all i have a 199A i was woundering if i could fit a speedo? but my front hub dosant have a conetion for the cabel. is there somthing you can get for the rear wheel? so you can conect the cabel?
Any flexible/silicone based oil resistant gasket sealant should be fine - e.g. Loctite or Hylomar
Bigger question is why is is leaking in the first place? Can you not see the affected area? Have you tried gently sanding surfaces with wet&dry by sticking wet&dry to PERFECTLY FLAT surface (bench or table top) and gently sanding the mating surface on it?
Also inspect the engine casing side closely for any burrs or left over pieces of gasket that could be causing the leak.
thanks for your help i think it may be a bit of old gasket or a burr i couldnt get to the bit where it is leaking. ive had to take the bash plate off. ill drain the oil off mop the oil up and dry it before sanding it got new gasket. thanks for your help
hello all can anybody addvice me on witch gasket sealant to buy? ive got a verry slight leak on the clutch case ive gone through tree gaskets now. cant understand why its leaking was ok when i first built the bike but since i took it back off to do the clutch its got a leak. so for good measure gonner put abit of sealant on. ive look on the net what avalabel theres loads to choose. would i be better with a non setting sealant so if i need to take the cover off for any reason i wont need to be hammering it off. please help
Yes. If John Collins says so i for one would believe him. He knows more about Bultaco's than the rest of us have forgotten.
hello john im chris ive just finished my 199A 350 ive put new barnet clutch plates in got new push rod in and throw out ball. ive bottomed the clutch springs and backed them off 3/half turns as sevice manual say. is this the best way to set the clutch? your help would be mutch needed thanks chris
The small seal you are talking about is best pried out gently with a sharp pick. Make sure that the end of the shaft isn`t galled or burred. Grease the seal completely and find a socket the same OD of the seal. Gently tap the new seal into place. It just needs to be flush with sleeve gear end. Usually the spring side of a seal will go towards the inside of the engine. On this small seal that bultaco used depending on which direction the inside lip goes the spring could possibly be out. easiest way to tell is to look at which way the rubber seal lip faces. Install it so that the stretched side goes out so that when installing it it doesn`t hook on the gear and rip when being installed.
If you don`t already have one I strongly recommend that you buy a parts manual for this model and also get the Bultaco service manual. Both are available from Dave Renham and are invaluable for this type of thing. I have the parts book open if front of me now and it plainly shows what order all the parts go in. The service manual also explains seal installation procedures. Hope this helps
Steve
hello again steve ive just had a look at the gear end shaft and i noticed a metal ring. witch befor i thought it was part of the shaft but i was wrong. i got it out with a small flat driver. seal whent in no probs. i put seal in with spring facing out but oil still comming out so ill try it the other way.
i need your help please im struggling to put a new seal in the final end drive of the front sprocket. its doning my head in ive nearly finished my 199A and somthing so small is getting the better of me. it was leaking oil so ive changed the seal and bush behide the sprocket and o ring. im abit confused witch way the final end seal gose? normaly seals go with the open end inwards. but pete from bultaco uk said it gose in with the open end facing outwards? ive tryed taping it in but seem to damage the seal so your help would be mutch appriceated
can anybody help ive put new o ring and bush and seal behinde front sproket. put it all back together great a thought untill i had it running noticed it was still leaking. so i cheked were the oil was coming from. looks like its leaking behinede the felt pad so i give bultaco uk a ring and asked for there addvice. he said its the seal in the shaft i didnt know there was a seal there. so i got one tryed to put it in just want to know how fare in should it go in?
Oh this was difficult to understand, so long sentenses, just to see if I had understood right:
#01 You finished your 199b Bultaco Sherpa.
#02 You have mounted new cluth plates, they are from Barnet. Who is Barnett? (I'am from the continent just therefor my silly question))
#03 Then you tried to kickstart the engine and id did not work because the cluth was slipping
#04 You notices that one of the spring cups had pulled throw ....
This need explanation at least to me? ... You mean some of the cubs where worn out?
#05 Then You noticed the cluth had the metal one's in it? Do you mean the clutch plates from #02?
#06 It turned out that You have forgotten to install the little ball that is located between the cluth and the clutch rod, but You fond out by yourself that there was something missing. (Oh, this can happen !)
#07 You can not wait get the bike running until you get the new clutch cups.
#08 You got a new carb from spain.
#09 You don't know the carb setting and if it was deliverd with the right jets?
#10 If someone here knows the right setting and jets?
This will be difficult because you did not name the brand, the type and the size of your new carburator
As long as there is no information to the carb the answer might be wrong / very difficult to answer.
Could you please give us the carb specs?
brand:
type:
size:
Thank's.
hello cheers for replying ive sorted the clutch now i think. shes kicking over ok now affter ajusting the clutch nuts. the carb is a 28mm bing had to put the right jets in didnt come with the right ones. still strugeling to get it started think its a fuel issue. i put fuel down the head fired up first kick. think the air scerw needs seting onces i get her going she onley idels with the chock on when i take chock off she dies unless i keep the reaves on. getting back to the clutch cups you couldnt understand. they was worn so got new ones
Chris take your time and don't get excited ,it sounds like your clutch is slipping , you need more adjustment on the nuts .I'm not sure what you mean about the cups ,as one gone inside the clutch ?????
hi mate you was right the nuts needed more ajustment. so ive done that shes kicking over ok now. i started her up took quit a few kicks to get it started. dont think fuel is getting throw so i put some fuel down the head and she fired up no probs so i think its the carb. just somthing else i wanted to ask ive put a new seal behind the front sprocket including o ring but still leaking oil the felt pad is soaked in oil so asked bultaco uk pete said its the seal in the shaft were the push rod gose. one more thing when i put it in gear this dosent hapen all the time it makes a nose as if its not engaging could this mean the clutch needsmore ajusting? as for the cups one was worn well they all was so i got new ones put locking wire throw nuts to at a time is this ok?
hi can anybody help ive just finished my 199A just put a new clutch plates in barnet ones im trying to set it but kick starts turning over but sliping but just noticed one of the spring cups had pulled throw it had the metel ones in i thought it needed new plates but turned out the was no throw out ball so put one in i know its somthing supid im not doing gonner wait till new cups come and try again but your help might put some light on the matter i had it runing and she pulls ok just needs the carb settin i put the right jets in as it was a new carb from spain but didnt come with the right jets
Try a headless screw or grub screw that fits together with loctite 603, you might mill away the apex of the screw first. Maybe it also works with loctite 243, (the blue liqued), but i would not bet on it, because there are only some threads. The 603, (green one), is a real glue but difficult to get loose again.
thanks for the addvice wheres the best place to get loctite?
hello all can anybody tell me whats the best way to seal the holes were the greas nipels go the only reason im sealing them is because ive put the rolling bush kit in ive tryd clear silicon and it just keeps coming out when its dry is there somthing else what would work?
could anyboy tell me were the over flow tube gose on the chutch case? ive got it tuck inbeween the finns at the moment but wont it melt with the heat or is there a fitting that clips on the finns so the tube can go throw?
Tighten the nuts until they bottom and then back out 4 complete turns. You can't go much further than that otherwise the nuts, which are quite thick, will catch the inside of the clutch case. Fit the clutch cover case, remove the round adjustment screw and check the clearance of the nuts to the inside of the casing. Leave say a couple of millimetres as it is the thread of the adjustment screw that gets caught first as it sits proud of the inside edge of the casing.
You can mill (or grind or hacksaw, whatever) the nuts down to half their thickness. This will enable you to wind them out a bit more without them touching the casing in order to ease off more on the spring tension which will give a lighter clutch pull. How much more is trial and error. I have Barnett plates in mine so can afford to back them off a fair bit due to the extra bite of the Barnett plate material. Can't remember how far though. If you do turn down the nuts and still want to use lock wire you will have to drill new holes as reducing the thickness of the nut loses the original holes.
Don't back them off too much as although the bike will still start and pull in 1st or 2nd without any noticeable slip, if you have to really wail it in 3rd, it will slip.
As to whether you can use fuse wire, I don't know. I'd just buy a roll of locking wire and use the correct stuff.
can you help me again my front wheel was wobbeling so i took it off and noticed one of the bearing was nackard so i took it out no probs came to do the other side and ive ended up with the outer race of the bearing still stuck inside it hasnt moved at all just the center came out can you help dont want to damage the hub
Tighten the nuts until they bottom and then back out 4 complete turns. You can't go much further than that otherwise the nuts, which are quite thick, will catch the inside of the clutch case. Fit the clutch cover case, remove the round adjustment screw and check the clearance of the nuts to the inside of the casing. Leave say a couple of millimetres as it is the thread of the adjustment screw that gets caught first as it sits proud of the inside edge of the casing.
You can mill (or grind or hacksaw, whatever) the nuts down to half their thickness. This will enable you to wind them out a bit more without them touching the casing in order to ease off more on the spring tension which will give a lighter clutch pull. How much more is trial and error. I have Barnett plates in mine so can afford to back them off a fair bit due to the extra bite of the Barnett plate material. Can't remember how far though. If you do turn down the nuts and still want to use lock wire you will have to drill new holes as reducing the thickness of the nut loses the original holes.
Don't back them off too much as although the bike will still start and pull in 1st or 2nd without any noticeable slip, if you have to really wail it in 3rd, it will slip.
As to whether you can use fuse wire, I don't know. I'd just buy a roll of locking wire and use the correct stuff.
thank you for that mutch needed addvice would have never thought about the threads catching the case ive just put barnet plats in mine like you said there thicker the lock wire were do you get it from tryed halfords dont do it cant thick off anywere else
Even when the clutch is adjusted perfectly and working perfectly during riding, you can still get clutch slip on the kickstart. It's normal on a Bultaco, nothing to worry about.
ok thanks for the addvice just one more thing the new clutch plats or in ive ajusted 6 nuts more or less the same and ajusted the grub srew pulled clutch leaver in and turnd it over clutch plats seem to be runing ok but whats the best way to set the 6 nunts and will 30 amp fuse wire be ok for the lock wire
I think however you will find the following oils are best:
Clutch - 1/2 pt TQF ( Automatic Trans Fluid)
Gearbox - 1 pt SAE 90
hi john i got my 199A going had a blast round the back garden shes got sum power checkit over and tryed to start her up again but the kick start was sliping so i ajusted the clutch no joy so i thought it needed new clutch so i got a set off barnet ones off bultaco uk put them in had to bottom the scerw before the plates was openin so i checkt to see if the throw out ball was there to my horrer it wasnt there so ive just payed for clutch plates i probely didnt need the old ones look ok they have dipels in them anyway my question is the plates with the half moons and the slits in them witch go inbeween the clutch plates do the slits have to line up with eachother?
much help needed. ive just finished my 199A and my front sprocket is leaking. so i changed the seal behind the front sprocket and the o ring and the metal bush. i replaced the sprocket and it was still leaking. it is leaking from the final end drive. so i replaced the seal on the end of the gear shaft. it is still leaking slightly but can you advise that this is normal for bultacos?
i need your help please im struggling to put a new seal in the final end drive of the front sprocket. its doning my head in ive nearly finished my 199A and somthing so small is getting the better of me. it was leaking oil so ive changed the seal and bush behide the sprocket and o ring. im abit confused witch way the final end seal gose? normaly seals go with the open end inwards. but pete from bultaco uk said it gose in with the open end facing outwards? ive tryed taping it in but seem to damage the seal so your help would be mutch appriceated
what size srockets
in Bultaco
Posted
yep thats what i ment. ive got the 11T and 39T allready on so ill leave it as it is. thanks for your help