drowned rat

Cheers for that feetup I will try and get a go on another to try, just seem a bit few and far between round here. I have heard that it is a common feature of the bikes but also heard that some people have took a plate out to try and combat the drag, just wondering what the success rate of that is ?. May just get some new plates and see how I get on Thanks

Just right then to perfect your "non-stop" technique

Just wondering if any of you guys could help me with a couple of problems with my 349 clutch ? I rebuilt the engine some time ago but the clutch has never been right, always drags even when warm. Tried different oils from TQF (dextron) to light gear oil that was for my TXT GG. The TQF made the clutch very snachy, like a on/off switch but still dragged The light gear oil smoothed the take off up but still it dragged. The second problem is that on occasion the clutch will slip when kicking the bike over. I can understand that the plates may be worn and that new ones may cure the slip but is there anything that can stop the drag.

Ok my thoughts on the trial. The observers deserved a medal as posted previous, as the sun went down it did get bitter. I rode the clubman route and although I dropped a score a one day cricket team would be proud of , to me the sections were right for a C&NW round. I really enjoyed the venue as I did the previous years, yes there was a bit of queue jumping as people tried to make time up, it did get a bit icy but that isn`t the clubs fault. The only blot for me was the start, and it was the same last year. Enough has been posted about this, and I just hope that the club can get a bit of extra help for next years event as it really is a good trial worth the 2hrs + travelling. It would be a shame to read in the TMX about it USED to attract 120+ entries

I just grind a notch in the middle of the track just deep enough to get a chisel in and then just tap it off. Once it has started to move you can get underneath to keep it coming off even.

Thanks for the replys guys. There is a guy local to me who does the brakes for road race stuff and machines the linings to the drum, but it is expensive. I did have a set done but found that the linings started to break up after a while, but may have to dig deep and have another set done and bin the stock ones. It may be a 79, I know that it is a early one with the full front hub, air forks and seat cover very similar to the 348 one. I bought the bike in bits with a partly stripped engine due to the crank snapped on the flywheel side, bit of a common problem I now understand and cranks are getting like hens teeth here in the UK, I did get one but had to have some work done on it as it had started to crack on the flywheel side near the woodruff key. Anyway thanks for the input

I was wondering if any of you guys could point me in the right direction regarding a 78 349 Cota I have. Firstly the front brake is poor, new cables, new shoes but still the lever feels very spongy and will touch the bars. The brake does work but won`t lockup, doesn`t inspire confidence ! Secondly, the front forks have air valves on the top, is this for assisting the damping with air or for letting air out, get different reports from different people. I have never had a Mont before so can`t tell if it is a quirk of the model ?. Thanks

Just wanted to know what you guys do on road trials regarding riding with the choke on for the road work. Seem to get various answers regarding this, the majority saying that it should only be needed for SSDT etc ?. Just steady road work, no thottle to the stop stuff. The reason I ask is that after my last road outing, the bike ended up in intensive care, and only after large injections of cash did a full recovery occur !!. As you can imagine I don`t want a repeat performance on my (new to me) Pro.