bigbird2

I tapped mine out to the next larger size English thread and it is working fine so far. If you go this way you also need to enlarge the hole in the sub-frame so the bolt passes through it freely. In my case I have the long ride kit installed as well,

It seems there a quite a few different ones? Can you give me a hint which model or part number? Thanks

YOU got it! Thanks!

I'm getting my 2009 Evo 300 4t back together after carb cleaning, etc. and can't figure out how to attach the throttle cable to the carb - DUH! I can't see how the sandwich of disks described below is fixed to the carb shaft in the proper position to wrap the cable. Maybe it is just a friction fit with the nut holding it in the proper place??? ============================================================= The throttle shaft comes out of the right side of the carb where it passes through a spring loaded metal "disk" that has some notches, cutouts and holes in it. The outer right end of the shaft is threaded. The next piece that goes on is a sort of snail shaped thin metal disk with a hole in the middle for the throttle shaft and a hole near the perimeter for the sort of T barrel on the end of the cable to go into. It is bare aluminum on the carb side and painted white on the outside. The next piece is an ~ 1/8" thick piece of plastic snail shaped with a hole in the middle for the throttle shaft. The last big piece is another snail shaped thin metal disk with a hole in the middle for the throttle shaft and a hole near the perimeter for the sort of T barrel on the end of the cable to go into. It is painted white on the carb side and aluminum on the outside. The last piece is the nut that holds the 3 disks onto the throttle shaft. The 2 aluminum disks are the outer guides for the cable and the smaller plastic disk is sandwiched between them to for the cable to wrap up on. The inner disk was slightly bent near the edge to sort of hang up a notch in the first spring loaded disk BUT this is a very tenuous "hang up" and appears to put the cable fitting hole around 12:00 when it needs to be somewhere in the 4:00 orientation.

Does anyone know where to get this part?

No it was all assembled! I just cleaned and reassembled it and don't see where any parts are missing? Maybe on of the suspect parts was just sort of sitting on top of the carb from some prior project???

I just took my carb off and in the process turned it sort of upside down and heard something hit the floor. When I looked in the area I found 3 things (2 of which were probably already there because the area was messy) one of which I assume came from the carb. The parts were: a small aluminum sleeve about 6+mm ID and 8mm long a 6mm set screw 10mm long with an allen wrench fitting in one end a 6mm hex nut. Any help appreciated. Thanks,

I had previously broken of the back part of the rear fender/mudguard and fixed it by splicing thermoplastic polycarbonate / lexan like a splint on both sides. HOWEVER - I flipped the bike again and now it's in 3 pieces! SO I was wondering what others may have done about this (as new ones are nearly $200) and will break off again easily? Does anyone have one made out of the flexible plastic endure bikes use? I may try just making the whole rear part out of the lexan - It's easy to work with and pretty tough but will look UGLY!

My 2009 Evo 300 generally starts and runs OK but under hard acceleration it sort of surges unevenly and sometimes bogs a little on hard or even mild throttle application. This surge/bog continues thru increasing revs at full throttle. I'm not SURE but it seems like adding some choke may help but not cure these problems a little? I'm guessing this means either: - There is crap in the carb? - AND/OR The jetting is too lean for cold weather? Plan is to take carb apart to clean it and find out what the jetting is. Is there something else I should be doing different or beyond the above? Does anyone have jetting recommendations? I don't know where in the documentation to find this info? THANKS! for any help.

Thanks folks. I HATE the screw valve that is on there. Can you point me to a better device to replace it?

The manual says: The fuel tank will hold approximately 2.5 liters, 0.5 liters of which is reserve. As far as I can tell there is NO Reserve? Am I missing something??? It is a 2007 with an annoying screw in to shut off knob at the exit of the tank. Thanks for any help.

I finally got the bike running and it appears that the valve adjustment I did with the head off of the motor is OK. The valves make some noise but it doesn't seem excessive and the bike starts and runs OK.

Just a follow up on my fix for the next person that has this question. I was able to removed the seals with a "seal pick" and they were easy to replace just using a socket as a driver. I didn't have to take the head off/apart BUT when I pulled the shaft out the water pump drive gear fell down and got jammed SO I then took off the tensioner and managed to free the drive gear with an ice pick and then reinsert to shaft, etc. I'm not sure if NOT first removing the tensioner contributed to the gear falling and getting jammed OR if later removal of the tensioner was really needed to get it un jammed - but it is pretty easy to do so I just did it.

Well Its sort of complicated BUT on a couple of my bikes I use a product called Tubliss http://www.nuetech.com/ which effectively creates a 360 degree rim lock which allows very low pressures AND IF one uses tires with VERY stiff sidewalls (on my enduro bike I use desert racing tires) on can/must run pressures from 0 to 3 PSI to get good traction and NO worry about flats (because they will run ok even with no air pressure)

Does anyone have a recommendation on a good tire gauge for accurate measurements in the 1 to 5 PSI range? I've been using Big Master 0-15 dial type which are OK but sometimes seem to stick (not move off zero) if trying to measure pressures in the 1 to 2 PSI range.

I just put in a stock plastic one. My current problem question is not about the impeller blade as that is fixed/done. I then found the seals on the impeller shaft were bad so I am now trying to figure out how far I have to tear the engine down to replace them.

I've just replaced the timing chain tensioners that were destroyed by overheating caused by the fact that the last person that worked on the motor left out the water pump impeller - GRRR! After the repair I had a coolant leak at the gap between the top and bottom parts of the head which - by searching this board THANKS - I determined was due to failed seals on the water pump shaft. (The motor is designed to let the coolant leak out at the right edge of the head/cylinder joint to avoid it going into the motor oil.) I now have new water pump shaft seals and a new shaft (just to be safe) and need to install them. Can anyone tell me how to get the old seals out and any tips on how to best install the new seals? I Know that I am able to remove and replace the water pump impeller shaft with the top of the head off and the spring/plunger device removed. I'm HOPING that this can be done without removing the cylinder head again? and MAYBE without even removing the top half of the head? and POSSIBLY without even removing the spring/plunger that provides the tension for the cam chain? THANKS for any help you can give me on this! This board has be a GREAT resource for me as I've worked through these repairs.

Thanks for the good advice :>) You are the perfect person to ask about the comparison of "ease of kick starting" of a 200 Evo with 11.8:1 Compression Ratio (CR) vs a 250 with 8.9:1 CR? I VERY briefly had a 2007 Rev 3 270 which I sold to get the new 200 Evo. One of the key reasons was to hopefully get easier kick starting because I'm OLD and whimpy :<( I hadn't realized until very recently that the 200 has a MUCH higher CR than the 250 and am now wondering IF that higher CR is going to negate the benefit of the smaller motor? Thanks for your help.

Thanks for the replies folks! Rokhopr (nice handle) - Just wondering what the improvements you are looking for in the 2014 vs 2011? OR are you just ready for NEW?

I have a 2014 Evo 200 on order The parts manual on line doesn’t say what the STOCK spring rates are for this bike. So my questions are: 1 - What are the stock original shock and fork spring rates for this bike? Beta has accessory springs available for this bike with the lowest rated shock spring being 8.0 for 175-200 lbs and the lowest rated fork spring being .88 for 180-210 lbs 2 - Are the lowest rated accessory springs you have for this bike the SAME as what comes stock? 3 - OR are they the next stiffer size above stock? My reason for asking is that I'm a little over 200 with gear on and wondered if the stock springs will be stiff enough? It seems that if #2 above is correct? They may be BUT if #3 is correct they probably won't be. Thanks for any help

I'm preparing to reinstall the head, etc. on my 09 EVO 4t and have a question. I've had the head and the top part of the head that clamps the cam off to replace cam chain tensioners, etc. Although, I haven't messed with the valves or valve gear, etc., it would seem prudent to check/adjust the valves. The engine is still in the frame (sort of barely) so it is not easy to get good access to/through the covers that one adjusts the valves through with the head installed. SO - My question is: Wouldn't it make sense to temporarily bolt the 2 parts of the head together with the cam in place BEFORE installing the head and cam chain, etc. and do the adjustment with the head OFF of the motor? It seems this would allow easy access and should give the same results (maybe with less error) than trying to do the adjustment after fully installing the head? Comments Appreciated!

I'm and OLD guy that has decided to try trials again. Although I'd rather not - I can afford to get an EVO over a Rev 3. I'd probably get a 200 for the easier starting, etc. (or maybe a 4t if that is easier to kick???) A good friend has recommended I go for the EVO because it will be easier for me to learn on and ride do to improvements like linkage, steering and a little less weight. Just wondered if you folks think the EVE will be noticeably easier for me? Also any thoughts on a 4t vs a 200 2t would be appreciated, Thanks

The 200 comes with a 16 mm ID and 22 mm OD bushing to get from the small diameter wrist pin to the 22 mm rod end hole of the 200-270 rod. When converting a 200 to a 250/270 this bushing is replaced with an 18 mm ID 22 mm OD needle bearing.

Actually, I've already confirmed that (contrary to what a lot of internet site info says) the 200 and 270 have the same stroke and conversion of a 270 to 200 or 200 to 270 can be done (and has been done) with change of piston, jug and head, etc. The beta parts info on page 5 has errors on it that confuse the issue. Item 22 and 23 BOTH include the same big primary/clutch gear but 23 ALSO includes the FWW which is not on the 125/200 page 4 at all.

I have been researching the idea of converting a 2007 Rev 3 270 to a 200. I'm trying to determine IF the 270 has a Flywheel Weight (FWW) that the 200 does not have? In looking at the Beta parts manual http://www.lewisportusa.com/manuals/beta/Trials%20Parts%20Books/2000-08%20rev-3%202t/07%20Rev%20125-200-250-270%20Engine.pdf pages 5 (250/270) and 4 (125/200) there is an item 23 on page 5 that is labeled: + 23 29-07314-8 Trasmissione primaria c/camp. Primary drive with cup which I think is an error since there is an item 22 with the same name that IS a primary drive. The item 23 ALSO shows what looks like a large FWW. Can anyone help me figure out the answer to my question??? Thanks for any help.