andilicious

I changed the gear oil about 4 hours use ago, it loo perfectly normal at that time. I always have a bung in exhaust and put a rubber glove over the filter and I always run it up after cleaning too. Airbox is clear inside too! I'm at a bit of a loss as to what's happened as I do take care of my bikes!!! It was running fine for an hour last night and then just started to run a bit hot. I just thought for the sake of 10 bolts I'd pull the cylinder and have a look for some obvious and found this!

Iv had the bike since November but only rode it 8 times maybe. No idea how long the coolant has been in but it was surprisingly clean when it came out. The jug in the picture makes it look cloudy but it was fine really. It doesn't run too bad so it must only be a slight weep somewhere. It's ran perfect for 3 trials, 3 playdays and 2 long evening rides. Guess it only just started overheating when it got down to this level of coolant. I'll give it a proper clean tomorrow night and see if I can spot anything obvious before I tear into it!! Top end orings looked fine too. Base gasket tore as I lifted it so can't comment on that. May just be that that's gone? Andy

Hi guys, Bike was running odd and felt a little hot and also the clutch felt jumpy. Started an investigation and found that there seemed to be coolant in the gear oil Then checked the coolant and only got 500mm roughly out of it So decided to pull the top end and found this on everything below the piston rings Does anyone have an idea as to where to start looking for the leak?? Cheers Andy

I'm going to go for the ignore it now it isn't happening at the moment approach. After all, it's nearly Enduro season and I won't be touching the trials till November again!

I thought it would be the stator when hot issue as lean jetting would have caused mechanical damage that affects the engine through it's entire operating range?

Mann MUFF! Well it ran fine all day today, I didn't get a chance to do a WFO run due to too many trees! Pretty sure it's electric related now. I'll investigate more when I'm back off holiday.

Hi all. Thanks for the replies. It seems I have one of two possible issues. Either I have a failing stator or it's too lean to sustain long wide open throttle runs. I'm out on it today and hopefully it will become more obvious which issue it is. If it happens without the fast work then I guess the stator is on its way out! I haven't had chance to look at the piston yet, I think I'll just use it today anyway as I'm only marshalling at fast eddys extreme enduro so it's not going to get abused pootling round the woods.

@the addict. We were moving from one section to the other without loading into a van. I'll pull the pipe off in the morning and have a look at the piston. It's gonn need a top end anyway now I think. It still runs for now so it can wait till I get back from California!

Hi Went out the other night and the bike was running perfect. We did a long high speed on the road link for maybe 4 or 5 mins and when we slowed down my engine just died. It was like the kill button was pushed in. It didn't start back up until it had cooled down and then ran fine again. Later on we did a similar length run on the road and the same happened again. I have read that when the guys are doing the long links between sections on the SSDT that they run with the choke on to richen it up enough for the sustained wide open runs. Is it likely that it's just that or should I be looking for something else? As well as a new set of rings....

Hi Copemech. Thanks for the reply. I did notice it's the same carb and not much different jets than my 290. We'll just play about with needle position and possibly some shims to get it as good as we can. Thanks Andy

Wonder if someone can help out. Bike came to us with a 96 main jet and the needle on clip 1. It didn't run right at all. We've now got a 120 main jet and needle is on clip 3. When we chop full throttle we still get a bog. I'm not sure what's causing it. Originally with the 96 main it cut the engine if we chopped full throttle and held it. Now we get a hesitation as the revs build but it gets through to full throttle. Not sure what to check next? Cheers Andy

Hi Just got a new to me bike as above. Could do with knowing:- Jet sizes for UK Gear oil volume Fork oil volumes I didn't get any paperwork with it and all I c find online is a parts list. Cheers Andy

This was my solution Guess it will be fine til I need to remove the airbox or carb!

Right then. It appears I don't have the rubber bit or the mud flap at the front side!! Anyone got any pictures?

It's not like filling the space up like between sump guard & engine, I need some kind of physical barrier to prevent it getting in! If you see a Sherco air filter / mud catcher after a winter trial you'd see what I mean.

How have people been stopping / reducing the amount of mud getting between the exhaust and the air box? Iv just filled it with black silicon for now. Not sure how to fix a mud flap without putting holes in the airbox which I don't particularly want to do!

Just man up and kick it till it starts. It's only a 250 and not a 290! Lol Mine does this if I leav the tap on. I just kick it on full throttle and choke on and it usually goes on the 90 - 100 kick!

I went for Silkolene Pro RSF 5wt fork oil. The PO had put new oil and seals in but I felt something wasn't right. Found he had punctured the seals by using a screwdriver to seat the oil seals. After last weeks river sections and bog crossings there was lots of water in with the oil. Oil looked like strawberry milkshake! Feels lots better now. Looking forward to the annual Christmas trial held on my own little play area so I'm hoping for a top 5 in novice!! ?

Hi Guys Just doing oil and seal change and wondered if anyone has any recommendations on brand / wt / height? Cheers Andy

Sam, If you do this can you take a photo of the offending area so I know what I am looking for! My gear lever sticks in the up position so I'm guessing its the same issue. Andy

Ok I can't confirm what actually fixed the issue but I unplugged / unbolted every electrical connection, parts cleaned everything, reassembled and it started first kick! Strange thing now is that it's ticking over quite high and not responding to the tickover screw. At 22:30 at night I have decided to leave that problem to be solved tomorrow! Thanks for all the input, I would have ordered a new stator for nothing if you hadn't said check more connections! Andy

Ok. Gonna have some tea and then give it a try with the kill switch completely disconnected and double check the Earth on the CDI. I noticed the earth is just banjo'd on the bolt beneath the CDI mount and I think that's a powder coated section of the frame so I will make sure I am on a bare metal contact to test it. If that's the issue then I'll extend that Earth to a better contact point. Wish me luck!

If I remove the connectors between stator and CDI then the kill switch function is not in the circuit is it? I don't know what else it could be that doesn't require a stator rewind! Lol

Yep seen that now! It's pretty straight forward.

Does anyone know what voltage should I get out of the stator on Brown / Black / Blue when I kick it? I can then check it up to the CDI and work out where the problem lies. Toetoe, I have already tried snipping a bit off the HT lead once I saw there was no spark, so I have a clean connection and that didn't work.