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Everything posted by andilicious

  1. Hi whats the most preload you should go before you have to go up a spring rate? ive just wound my stock spring up to 115mm compressed length with the bike off the ground and it’s just starting to feel like front & rear are working at the same speed. Maybe a few more mm and it will be bang on but I don’t want to take it too far and cause damage etc Cheers Andy
  2. Remove shock from bike. Loads of room.
  3. andilicious

    New 4Rt Mods

    I've got a Repsol but apart from already having some guards I have thrown away the standard filter and tank vent and replaced with aftermarket as above. Fitted hour meter - keep track of oil changes as we ride trails as well and the hours rack up. Set suspension right - ongoing.... Vaseline all the electrical connectors. Not just yet, but at about 20 hours I will open all the bearings and remove stock grease and put maxima waterproof grease in. Stock Honda grease is present (unlike KTM!!) and works well. The maxima waterproof grease has been ace on all other bikes so this one is getting the treatment once I feel the stock grease is fading out. I would love a flywheel weight........
  4. Right sorry for the delay but I finally got chance to take some measurements. Weight with gear 90kg Rear, measured from the tape hooked under the rear spindle nut to the edge of the carbon exhaust guard. Spring preloaded to 120mm off the bike. Off the ground - 515 Static sag - 510 = 5mm Race sag - 445 = 70mm Front, measured from the tape hooked under the front spindle up to the lower triple clamp. Preload 3 turns in from full out. Off the ground - 565 Static sag - 545 = the 20mm Race sag - 510 = 55mm From just being on the bike and consciously thinking how it feels the rear seemed to drop nicely but the forks seem to stay up too much. I tried changing my body position a little but it didn't make any drastic changes to the results. Can anyone comment on the numbers?
  5. I weigh on or just over, probably over with all my gear on what the standard spring will be suitable for, although no where is this documented. There is almost enough thread on the preload to coil bound the spring off the bike so my question is what is the maximum you can compress / add preload to it until it is no longer suitable and I have to go to the next rate up! I don't see why this is such a difficult question? If I get the correct sag setting with the Spring at say 80mm long the first time I ride it it will break. All I want to know is at what point is the next spring rate needed. Is it more than 120mm go up, more than 115mm go up etc.
  6. Thanks for the comments. The manual does not state the maximum preload, only the free length and the factory setting. I am on the limit of what the stock spring is rated at but don't want to wind it past its limit as it is not documented anywhere. I don't want to get the correct "garage reading" of sags and then drop off a ledge and the spring become coil bound and break! Hope that makes helps you to help me.
  7. Hi All, Does anyone know the maximum preload you can put on the stock spring before you need to move up a spring rate? I've wound mine up to 120mm Spring length at the moment and it feels better but I want to go a bit more if possible. Cheers Andy
  8. Hi all, Going to change my coolant & brake fluid this weekend. What is the best to use? Thanks Andy
  9. Hi My bike began struggling to tick over and then died. Occasionally it would kick up and then worked and failed again quickly. After much investigation I found the woodruff key aligning the flywheel had snapped along it's length and was allowing the flywheel to slip out of time. Has anyone seen this before? I have a flywheel weight on it but it ran fine for weeks before this happened. Andy
  10. It did the noises if I held the throttle slightly open whilst coasting so the engine had no real load if that makes sense. Well so far I have replaced the small end bearing and cleaned and reassembled everything. Still does it. Made it even worse I think! It's going to Sandifords for them to have a look now. I'm at the end of my tether!
  11. Ok so I had to pull the top off to have a look........ There doesn't appear to be much in the line of wear, slight scuffing off of the finish on the piston but nothing major. I also can't feel any movement in the bearings so I'm at a loss. It didn't sound like pinking noise it was definitely more of a mechanical clunk to it. Anyone see anything wrong that I'm missing? Andy
  12. Hi all In the end I had to grind the nut off. The problem was that the stud had corroded quite badly so I had no chance of getting it off! I'lL need to replace the stud but that's not a big deal. Thanks for the help guys. Andy
  13. It's a 2014 GasGas 300 racing. I tried to grind one down but it just opens up now as it's no strength and then adds to the rounding off!
  14. Hi guys Is there a specific tool to remove the 2 front flanged nuts on a cylinder? I can get a 13mm spanner on but it can't rotate enough before the back of the spanner contacts the case. I'm now starting to round the unit Iv messed with it so much! Frustrating as I'm the 2 front bolts away from checking the bearings and rebuilding the top end! Cheers Andy
  15. Hi guys My 2014 300 Racing has developed a new noise yesterday! When I close the throttle I get a pronounced Donk knock noise. Just wondering what this can be caused by? It was high hours bike when I got it and I'm unsure of the actual maintenance it's had in its former life..... I'm just trying to single out the cause and parts required so I can fix it all in one go. Cheers. Andy
  16. I'll have a go at shoving them in this morning! It just doesn't seem long enough to me! Lol
  17. Iv read numerous posts saying 2 bikes fully assembled can fit in a berlingo. Has anyone got a picture of how they do it? I can get one in with the bike diagonal or with the tyre poking through the seats but I can't see how I'd fit another one in there!!! Andy
  18. I changed the oil one at a time last week and notice they had been apart prior to me getting it so I wanted to make doubly sure they were going back together right! They felt very harsh so I'm guessing they weren't bled correctly or the oil was too viscous. Rebuilding them tonight with 5wt Silkolene Pro RSF and hopefully they will be fine then.
  19. As the title. Want to make sure these go back in the right way round! Bike is a 2014 300 racing with the Marzocchi forks. Cheers Andy
  20. Anyone? As it stands I'm going for the Silkolene Pro RSF.
  21. Hi guys. As the title really. I know my KTM 4CS's prefers Silkolene Pro RSF so I'm wondering if the Marzocci's have a favourite? I did a quick maintenance change this week and put some Putoline HPX in that I had knocking about in the garage but I know after 2 trials this weekend it will be getting replaced! I don't like how the Putoline seems to degrade very quickly so I'm looking for an alternative brand to them at least. Cheers Andy
  22. Does anyone know if these are still current for a 2014 300 Racing?
  23. Not the usual which oil........ Its been noticed that I don't slip the clutch enough when riding. I'm current running ATF and I think this is contributing to me letting the clutch hook up to quickly. I am proposing to use some Putoline 10w40 that I used to use in both sides of my Beta 350 RR Enduro bike. The thinking being it will slow down the action of the clutch and help me consciously slip the clutch more. Does this sound viable? Ha ha.
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