andilicious

I doubt it, I think I'm the only person I know with this age of Sherco! I was hoping one of these readings would come back open circuit so it would be an easy fix but alas.... I can't think what I could have done to cause it. Very strange how its just cut out.

Using the red lead to the plug terminals and black to earth. Blue no reading (sometimes shown as 1 or error) Brown 1000 to 1600 Black 1050 to 1650 My readings are Brown 1.111 Black 1.104 Using the leads the other way around i.e. black lead to the coloured wires, red to earth. Blue 600 to 730 Brown 650 to 770 Black 650 to 770 My readings are Blue 0.649 Brown 0.676 Black 0.677 Also test the resistance's of the other coil wires, leads either way around. White to red 95 ohms Red to green 550 ohms Green to white 640 ohms My readings W-R 79 R-G 508 G-W 587 I think the units are different on the readings but give the same result so I'm pretty happy with these. Resistance between W-R is slightly down but I think close enough? Just can't figure out what is wrong!

Found the link on splat shop. Off to the man cave!!

Ok I took the cover off the flywheel side and it was clean as a whistle under there. No flywheel puller so I just refitted that for now. I will have a look on splat shop in a mo and see if I can find the resistances as you say and see what I get. It was running perfectly as well which is why it's such an odd thing to happen. It can't be the kill switch as I'm not getting a voltage out from the stator. Andy

Hi Using my 06 290 today and it worked fine for around 40 mins and then just wouldn't start up. I checked fuel and that was fine so next I checked the spark and there's nothing. Came home and started with the meter in the HT cap and no spark so next I checked coming up from the stator and I'm getting 0.03v when I kick it over. What could have caused this?? I don't have a flywheel puller so I can't get inside just yet to have a look. Seems strange that it can just stop without any signs! Andy

Which guide did you follow? Was it a youtube vid?

I will take a look this weekend when I get home. At the moment I'm just remembering to turn the fuel tap off overnight and that solves the problem for now!

I have noticed that the float valve into the carb is passing slightly and if I leave the petcock on overnight, the fuel overflows out the carb and makes its way into the cylinder. I have to give it a good 90 - 100 kicks to get it to start after that!! Question is, on the splatshop 'preparing your Sherco for UK' page it suggest that the float valve should be increased from a 200 up to a 250. Is this relevant to an '06 model 290 as well as the '10-'11 the page refers to? If I'm buying a new float valve I may as well upgrade it while I'm at it for no extra cost! Cheers, Andy

In that case does anyone need an older model shock in exchange for a newer one?? Ha ha

Hi Cope. Everything works fine I was just curious that's all. Someone must of had it apart so I was wondering if there was a certain company that fitted Ohlins tops etc. I remove the spring and gave it a good cleaning and fitted it back in. I will need to replace the bearing on the bottom end soon but that's not a big problem. Cheers Andy

Hi Just been going through the bike which should be a 2006 290, after its maiden voyage and the shock doesn't look standard. It's an Olle but with a gold annodised top mount and different preload adjuster and top spring seat. Anyone recognise it as a different year or know if it has been modded? Cheers Andy

Hi Tony, No the previous owner must have though the sliced out bit was it wearing through so had put a brand new piece of hose in there!! I am thinking the richest clip position will be slightly rich now but will be fine for the next few months as it gets colder. I am just going to treat it to a new spark plug so while the tank is off I'm going to change it to clip 2 for now and see how she runs.

Cheers Cope. It feels fine now I have sorted a few things out. The pilot jet wasn't screwed in properly and the vents had been looped together so they weren't venting! I have seen this a few times on trials bikes!! I dumped the original fuel out which was yellowish and I think mixed at 50:1. I'm running it at 80:1. Feels so much better on the throttle now after these few adjustments. I think I will leave the needle position for now and see how it runs. Going to have a play on it for the day today and go from there really. I think it will need shock and forks servicing and setting up correctly but thats another topic entirely...

Hi guys I'v just picked up the above bike and the jets are:- Main - 122 Pilot - 35 Needle - D36 on bottom clip of 4 I'm in the UK so looking to make sure the bike is good to ride all winter without chopping and changing too much. How do these look? There's a lot of spooge in the pipe so thinking it may be too rich for summer but may be ok once it starts getting colder? Cheers Andy

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Hi I'm thinking of buying an 06 290 but the forks are as the pic attached. Is this normal/ cosmetic or actual wear / damage? Thanks Andy

Heres mine. Only pic I have of her at the moment... Andy

Hi Guys, Just to chip in, I use Putoline GP10 in my 4RT and its spot on. I get the usual bit of drag until its warmed up but then its fine. I have been advised to stay away from ATF in trials gearboxes, but to be honest I used it on my enduro bikes religiously and found it to be good enough that I never had to think about it. I was also advised to stay away from the 75w light gear oils in the 4RT as they tend to make the clutch more of a switch, whereas the thicker ones (such as GP10) keep it smooth. Thats only what I'v been told though as I never bothered with any other oils once the GP10 felt good. Andy

Does anyone have a recommendation on which ATF to use? I have used whatever was the cheapest in my local motor factors for the KTM and changed it literally after every 2nd ride so about 5-6 hours use and never had a problem with it. I will try a 'box full of this one anyway but if someone can recommend a good choice I'll go with that when this one runs out!

Its had new oil in about 2 hours prior to this done by the shop I got it from, not sure what it was though. I think I'm gonna drain it and run it on ATF anyway like my enduro bike so one oil suits all gearbox's! I'm opening it up to remove two of the clutch springs so I can have a look at the plates while I'm in there!

Its an '05 4RT.

Hi All, I noticed my clutch squeaking under load last time out. Anyone know a cause of this? I assume the plates are worn and need replacing? Cheers, Andy

Hi all, I'm going to look at '05 in the very near future and was wondering if there are any important things to look for. Was there any recalls, any must do mods etc are mudguards on this one mega money that sort of thing. I'm happy for normal wear and tear but just after some guidance on mont specific items. Cheers, Andy

Cheers guys. Just swingarm bearings and headset bearings and I can put her back together! Is there any cheap alternative plastics for these? What gear oil is suitable for these? I was going to go with PJ1 Ultralight. Andy

Oh yeh forgot to add it's a 2000 model.