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0007

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Posts posted by 0007
 
 
  1. always put a bit of valve grinding paste on the taper of the crank then offer up the flywheel and grind the two surfaces together until they mate perfectly then fit the woodruf key and torque it up . it is not the woodruf key thats supposed to hold it in the right place thats the job of the taper the key is only there to make sure it is correctly alligned

    Bingo, Ditto on the lapping and Ditto on the key being only for indexing

  2. I mix em

    Some stuff like the most common sizes get the good wrench (especially in smaller sizes) and just fill in the less common sizes with low dollar stuff

    Things like Philips screwdrivers, don't cheep out, better quality just works better for longer

    Ratchet and socket sets just go mid grade and look around for sales

    There are a lot of brand names out there but not so many tool factories, a lot of stuff rolls out the same door with a different look

  3. There are probable a dozen real good reasons

    Patent infringement

    Expense

    Physical dimensions

    Enormous fuel pressure

    Electrical output (turn over a modern DI 2 stroke by hand and feel the mag drag, WOW!)

    It's just Not easy to make a direct injected 2T

    4T is over 100 years old, it's easy and cheep and it's the future til electric comes of age

  4. I enjoy weird camera angles and would like to see more of that, but keep the camera low on the bike or body so the terrain does not look flat

    And don't delete the crashes

    You could try placing e camera in different places and film the same section from different angles, then take the time to edit them so it looks like real time

  5. I like the camera angles and fly cam and editing and riding

    Good job

    I don't think every video needs music......was that music? ......I remember the days when bands played instruments like guitars and drums

    Try a little AcDc or Mettalica or iron maiden on

    Maybe an intro and outro but listen to the bikes in the middle

    Oh and do some backflips, I like backflips

    • Like 1
  6. LOL, I sold my 17 year old Beta and the guy flipped out and wanted his money back cuz the kick start slips the ratchet every once in a while, always started for me, he is a dirt bike guy and I'm guessing was jumping up and down on it or something

    I took it back and told him used trials bikes are not for him

    He drove 300km to return the bike with a 1 ton diesel truck rather than take my offer of paying for the parts to fix whatever was slipping

  7. What is the resistance now?

    Also measure the resistance as far from the stator as you can so you measure the integrity of the wire harness and harness ground

    Do two tests, isolate the stator and then test it again through the harness

  8. Cope is right about the self adjusting aspect

    But all it takes is a bit of a sticky seal and the seal pulls the piston back to the same place regardless as to clutch pack thickness and wear

    That is difficult thing to account for as it's not factory spec and could vary between bikes

    So if the total stroke of the slave is like 3 mm (Guess) and you are 1 mm off then you have lost 30% of your stroke

    Anyway, if the glue removal doesn't deal with drag then this measurement should be checked

  9. I hadn't heard of Rekluse, interesting reading and I'm sure it would help.

    I've read a few similar comments on 300's, I'm inclined to rule out a 250 but keep a 300 as an option. With more practise I may get away with reduced clutch usage on a 300, I've also considered a switchable Rev limiter as a safeguard.

    DRs have advised me to use anti inflammatories, I prefer the physio advice of stretch and ice, but exercising the finger extending muscles has provided some relief and left my hands less clenched at rest.

    Vitamin B6 sure helps me out with Teno and carpal tunnel, just don't overdose on the stuff, just take the recommended amount
  10. I can't see a selection of shims not and I wonder if maybe it was on my Rev 3

    Here is a description from the manual.......good luck with it

    And I Quote, I wish I could attach the graphic but I can't do it with my iPad

    Note:

    The device you pressure plate must have a play between 0.4 mm and 0.6 mm. There- fore, proceed as follows when replacing disks:

    •Reassemble the clutch without the outer

    cover

    •Send the control rod to end of travel by

    pushing the pressure plate and measure

    distance F

    •Operate the clutch lever until the control

    rod activates the pressure plate. Measure distance G and check that there is difference of approximately 0.4-0.6mm.

  11. There is a shim involved as well

    The clutch only slightly disengages, it does not push the plates apart by even 1mm per surface

    I think it's roughly .040 thou

    So if your clutch shim is too thin then maybe you are simply not getting full stroke on the pressure plate

    • Like 1
  12. I would steer clear of the other way

    Put the long long crank stub with a large rotating mass on the end

    The end closest to hitting the ground

    There is no magic design that is reasonably priced to build

    Maybe all of the people who design motorcycle engines are right!

    • Like 1
 
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