mr neutron

Thanks, Laser!!! That info really helps. i wish I'd been thinking ahead enough to add one to the order I made with Stu @ Jack's Cycles...... Maybe one of the sorta-local bike shops in Portland might have one.... Zippy, I love your posts & website/videos. But I think I'm maybe gonna respectfully pass on the BFH flywheel removal method, hee hee..... But don't think that hasn't happened in my younger days. There's many a lawn mower I've worked on out there that fears me...... Actually, I'm pretty much happy with the bike stock. I do feel at my level of riding (if I've achieved one, hee hee), a slightly slower behaving bike might be a plus, except in the situations Dom mentioned. I'm just kinda faced with deal where my in order to keep riding my Gas Gas, I need to make it easier to start. That's why I was wanting the flywheel weight and ordered the head "insert" deal. Again, I really appreciate everybody's help, y'all!!! Thank You!! Jimmie

Dom, TJP, & Sam, Thanks you guys so very much for your help!!! You've no idea how much you're appreciated! I got hom from work this afternoon, and used my home computer to go to some websites where Hebo stuff is sold, and was able to glean just about what you stated, TJP. I also called a great guy that owns a dealership in Maine (eastern US) who confirmed that the Hebo flywheel weight I have will also fit my 2010 model. He also told me that my 2010 model has the S3 head with the replaceable combustion chamber. While most folks want a head with more compression, he said S3 makes one with less compression, which will meet my needs. He felt the spacer plates aren't nearly as problem free as the head "insert" is. So, I've also ordered one of those, along with some O-rings, as well. The Hebo flywheel weight was bought by a friend, but never used. So it appears all the hardware & required stuff is in the box.The install of the Hebo weight is slightly different from how the S3 weight installs, I think, Dom. But it still looks like it is fairly straightforward. I will need to remove the stock Gas Gas flywheel, position the Hebo weight in place, and then drill & tap two 8mm holes in the flywheel. It looks like two countersink head bolts help hold the weight in place, as well as the bolt in the center?? So I guess I need to find a flywheel puller, now..... Unless someone knows if the stock flywheel comes off w/o a puller? Doesn't look like it to me...... Again, I'm really grateful for your help here, fellas. Thank you very much! Jimmie

Hi, Dom!! Dom, I have to wonder if we may not somehow be related...... I too suffer from "ham fisted throttle control"..... You had me laughin' there, my friend! Thanks for the "Pros & Cons"! That gives me something to think on. I would like to slow my bike down just a little bit, to match my "Sea Cow-like Reflexes"..... But mostly, what I'm after is to make starting slightly easier for myself in the future. I'm getting a knee replacement a few weeks after Christmas, and I've been worried about how hard starting the bike will be with the new hardware in my knee. I also plan on getting a head spacers/compression reducer kit to help in the starting dept.. My doctor says It'll be okay to ride still, as long as I don't take any "big hits" from long drop offs & such. At the Novice level here where I ride, they mostly torture you with tight turns near smaller obstacles. So if I'm careful, I'll be okay. I can't help but think some of the help with smoothing out low end grunt, or "chugability" will certainly be welcome. Would you happen to know if the flywheels for 2002-2005 & 2010 models are similar? Thanks again! Jimmie

I've found a deal on what seems to be a still new Hebo flywheel weight.The model number on the box says the flywheel weight is HI4080, and that it fits the 2002-2005 250/280/300 Pro models. Does anyone know for certain if this flywheel weight will (or will not) fit my 2010 model? I've looked at the part numbers of Gas Gas flywheels for the 2005 models, and then my 2010 model, and they are indeed different part numbers. But that isn't always a sure indicator a part won't fit...... Also, if anyone has used one of these, or is using one, what are the opinions? Thanks! Jimmie

For what it's worth, when I shorten a bolt, or have to hacksaw anything with external threads, I try to find 2 or 3 nuts with the correct size for the bolt I wanna shorten. I will thread these nuts on the bolt, then clamp everything in a vise. I let the vise jaws tighten on the head of the bolt and one or two of the nuts I threaded on. Don't tighten vise jaws on the threads! .After you cut the bolt shorter, you can "unthread"/remove the nuts, and those nuts will chase, or clean up that last thread on the end of the bolt for you. Most times, I have to take a file & clean it up a little more, but not much. LSorta like what Zippy said, if you cut it just a hair longer, you then have a little extra material to grind on to square up the end of the bolt. Or, if you can just chuck it in a lathe, your whole life gets easier, hee hee. That's how I do it now, at the shop I work at. But I can still recall a time when I was trying to accomplish this sorta stuff with basically nothing for tools. It makes you become "creative"....... Anyway, the point here is to have a good, clean first thread on the bolt, so as not to mess up the internal threads on the case. Jimmie

I agree with neilh & canada280i, sorta..... In the shop I work at we always try to have our bolts use at least 2 times their diameter worth of thread engagement. Meaning if the bolts are, say, 6mm in diameter, it would be ideal if they engaged for about 12mm of threaded surface. This works out mucho better for torquing the bolts w/o stripping them (or the mating internal threads), and typically for holding whatever it is the bolts are supposed to hold. Now this is in an "Ideal World"..... It isn't aways possible to do that, I realize. But still, you'd like as much thread engagement as you can get..... Ben, would it be possible to buy longer bolts, and then shorten them to stock length? The part of the bolt that gets cut off wouldn't be exposed after it goes in the hole...... Jimmie Added in EDIT: The biggest concern I have about shortening bolts/reducing thread engagement is that it can make it really easy to strip the threads right out of the parent holes in the side case. Sorry if I wasn't very clear about that.....

Hey, Ben!!! I think I saw your bike stand in that first picture, lol..... Those are good photos! But is it really warm enough to ride there in a short-sleeved shirt, or are you simply incredibly tough??? Jimmie

As long as we have a chainsaw, we'll always have somewhere to park our bikes, huh? Actually, I recently got a 5 gallon paint bucket from a home improvement store that works pretty well now..... And I like your wheelie pic, Ben!!! Jimmie

It's been trying to snow here today, but mostly just a cold rain. So, I cleaned the air filter. I replaced those cable ties for the rear fender that broke during my last ride. My bike gets chucked away a lot too, Shipdamite. Some days, I get more exercise picking the bike up than I do riding. Good thing they're light bikes, huh? Oiled the chain, cleaned a little here & there, and put more new zip-ties on the frame guards. Then, I put the air in the back tire at 5 lbs. and the front tire at almost 6 lbs., and did balancing practice inside my barn. The barn has decent lights with a concrete floor, so next practiced hopping the front wheel. Kinda like sex, I was tired after doing that for 5 minutes, & put everything away for the day...... Jimmie

Here's a pic of my 2010 back in May, when I first got it. Please notice the carefully crafted hand made stand I labored over for this bike...... Sadly, the stand didn't survive the woodstove, lol....... Here's a fuzzy/grainy one of the bike struggling to pull my bulk around in the rocks at Washougal, Washington a week or two ago...... Jimmie

Hi, Ben! Ben, on some Gas Gas models, I've read that the main bearings for the crankshaft are lubed by the tranny fluid. Your model may not be like that, but it's really not worth taking a chance, Because (as has been said already) ATF is cheap, and I don't want watered down oil lubing the crank, transmission, clutch, or anything else, I'd change the fluid again (and probably again after that, like Nigel Dabster said earlier). You probably could ride it, for a short while, going easy on it, but I've yet to see someone your age go easy on a dirt bike, hee hee...... Jimmie

It's always a good idea to seal up an airbox to keep junk from getting past the filter. But my experiences with various Kehin carbs goes right with what Sting32 said. I'd bet a bucket of donuts the fuel is the culprit. I don't know if you have ethanol or alcohol added to your fuel there in the UK, but fuel like that has always been a problem for my Keihin equipped bikes. it tends to plug up the pilot jets really quickly..... If possible, try some non-ethanol/alcohol fuel. Regardless of the fuel used, I would turn the gas off on your bike, and drain the float bowl after any ride where the bike will sit for more than a day. The crummy stuff that the petroleum companies try to pass for fuel nowadays causes multitudes of problems, and it actually does it fairly quickly...... Jimmie

I agree with tankygsy. The rocker switch on my 2010 280 Pro has a little picture of cloud, that I assume means you use it on wet, rainy days, and the other end has a "sun" picture. I'm going to assume this is meant for those sunny days of summer I miss so fondly right now (it's wet & cold outside here right now... I've been freezing my butt off trying to bleed the stinkin' rear brake......). Actually, I notice no difference regardless of what position that thng is in. The previous owner I bought the bike from said the same thing. I read on one internet message board that it's more noticeable in the upper rev range of the motor, a place where my motor seldom goes...... Jimmie

For a parts fiche manual, go to www.trialspartsusa.com , and click on "MANUALS" button up by the top, in the blue box with white letters. After you get to the manuals page, just scroll down until you find the year & model you're after. I went ahead & downloaded the thing to my computer, in a file on my desktop, so I always have it handy. Ryan Young products ( www.rypusa.com ) will be one source of parts near to you. I think you can buy from the trials parts link with the parts manuals I linked you to above. But honestly, one of the best guys I've dealt with yet is Stu at Jack's Cycles up in Maine. He's fantastic to do biz with. Adrian at www.lewisportusa.com is really good as well. Oh yeah..... Mike at The Tryals Shop ( http://www.tryalsshop.com/ is first rate as well. I'd think anyone of these places would help ya out for parts. I think there's a member here from Muskogee, OK (JSE) that would help out as well. His advice here has helped me out a lot of times, without him even knowing that...... Jimmie

Be sure you check the coolant level in your radiator, andybetaRev3. If you have milky colored tranny fluid, it's possible that you have engine coolant leaking into your transmission, and need to fix that problem first. If your coolant level is good, then I'd be a little confused (more than I normally am). I have gotten very lucky when my 2010 was leaking transmission oil from the clutch cover a few months back. All I needed to do was go around the clutch cover & torque all the bolts. The gasket was still alright in that case. Hope you get that lucky, Sir! Jimmie

Hee hee, Yes, You're right, Jan! I guess I can relax! Thank You for taking the time to look at that! I really appreciate you doing that! I actually looked at a friend's 2013 Raga 300 today, and his has similar spaces on each side as well. I've spoken to a dealer here in the States, and found out this is "perfectly normal", and actually engineered in. The swingarm is narrower (by about 4mm) than the width inside of the frame at the pivot point. The swingarm is essentially aligned by the engine cases. This is what controls any would-be side to side movement of the swingarm in that area...... I'm sorry for panicking. I thought I'd either lost some parts, or done something majorly wrong. All this affirms the need to keep up with the swingarm seals & maintanance of that area...... Thanks again! Jimmie

Hey, All!! I have a 2010 280 Pro TXT I've been working on. I just replaced the lower shock spherical bearing, along with all of the linkage bearings & seals. I also replaced the swingarm pivot seals, and greased the swingarm bushings. That part of the job went really well, but on reassembly, I found out something a little odd, & please forgive me, because I'm having a tough time writing what I feel is a decent verbal description here..... With the rear fender/airbox off, the fuel tank off, the muffler off, & the shock off, I have the swingarm back on the bike. The swingarm axle/pivot bolt is on, & tight. The swingarm itself pivots easily, and is nice & tight to the motor, or actually, to those stamped steel washers that fit on either side of the engine cases, where the pivot bolt/swingarm axle goes through. But on the outside of the swingarm, where the outer seals are, close to the inside of the frame, I have gaps on each side of around 2.5 mm or so. Between the inside of the frame, and the outer portion of the swingarm itself, where the outer seals are, is where these gaps are. It doesn't appear I can "compress" the frame together any more than it is, as the swingarm axle essentially "bottoms out" on the right inner side of the frame, and can't really "pull" or compress the frame together. I don't think the frame sprung out any on me. I'm wondering if the engine just sort of "centers itself" on the swingarm axle, and then hold itself there with the pinch bolts on the engine cases back there?? I didn't see any gaps there when I took the bike apart, but wasn't really looking for any. These spaces, or gaps, are where my mx bikes typically had a washer/radial needle bearing washer setup, but the Gas Gas has nothing like that. I haven't been able to take a good enough photo with my digital camera that would help out, so I apologize there.... And like I said above, I wouldn't have noticed this back when the bike was in one piece & rideable. You need to have the tank, airbox, muffler & shock off the bike to see it, unless it's noticeable from underneath. It does appear they might be visible from directly behind the kickstarter on the right side of the bike, and possibly just behind the countershaft sprocket on the left side. I simply never noticed this before, if it actually was there. If it's not normally there, I'm really perplexed about what to do about it.... Has anyone else noticed this, or does anyone know if this is "engineered" in? Thanks, Jimmie