mr neutron

Thanks, RonH!! I'm grateful for your reply here. Yeah, that was not the answer I was hoping for, but it kinda confirms 1): stuff I've been reading online, and watching in videos, and 2): it kinda explains why the paint put on by the previous owner is flakier than all git out. I don't know if you're located in the U.S. as I am, or if you're familiar with Rustoleum brand paints like their inexpensive line of rattle cans and quarts called "Stops Rust" Gloss Protective Enamel. I've had really good luck with this paint on metal (like the swingarm) & wood whether from a rattle can, or stuff I mix up with acetone and Valspar hardener and shoot from a spray gun. It's cheap, easy to come by for me, and fairly durable. But I *think* it's basically just an ordinary oil-based enamel, and probably not the acrylic enamel that you recommended? FWIW, here's a pic of what I've done so far, regarding prep. I've sanded what I consider "the hard parts" (has all the intricate curves and such) of the fibeglass base with 120 grit. I know that I want all that flaking paint off, and figured I may as well take it the mostly bare fiberglass while I'm doing it. I just hope I can follow the contours well enough of the parts of the base not covered by the seat. I also found a couple of cracks, and some chips in this base I'll need to repair before priming. For some reason, the entire part I've sanded, and some I haven't had a thick layer of silver silicone seal over all of it that the seat covered. It clogs my 120 grit sandpaper up like crazy, and doesn't make this kinda tedious job a bit more difficult. Again, many thanks for your advice and help here, RonH!!

Hey, All! I'm slowly getting work done on my project TY250A. I got the swingarm "repaired", sandblasted, primered and shot some rattle can enamel on it today. The old "bumps" on the the swingarm that the snail chain adjusters push off of were really worn with grooves somehow. Maybe someone (previous owner) let the rear axle get loose? I say this because there is also damage to the dust collar on the drive side of the sprocket and the inside of the swingarm itself. I dunno how it could've happened, but it did. I ground off the old bumps, and drilled and tapped for 6mm allen headed bolts for the adjusters to work from: Now, I'm working on my fiberglass seat base. I made new brackets for the seat's rear mount before I found out that Feked sells them. Now, I'm sanding off the yellow flaking paint the PO put on, as well as some of the original yellow, down to the bare 'glass. My questions are: Does painting fiberglass actually require any "special" type of primer and paint? I'd really like to just put on some paint I can easily/inexpensively buy for now, and can use for future repairs. Something like a rattle can primer with rattle can hi-gloss enamel over that? I don't really want to shoot, say, colored gel coat on, or some of the more pricey marine products. Sorry for what's probably a stupid question. I suppose I need to say that I want this bike to be something I ride and crash, not a restoration showpiece. It's been 40+ years since I've done any bodywork involving fiberglass, and while I don't recall doing anything special while putting on and glassing in some fiberglass fender flares for my old Datsun 510, I would suppose there's been some improvements in chemicals for painting fiberglass by now........ Thanks for your help here, Jimmie

I'm thinkin' your probably right on that, guy53! I would do my GasGas 280's steering head bearings, swingarm pivot, and linkage in the winter (once a year), and it came apart and went back together fairly easily. On most of my MX and Enduro bikes I've owned over the years, once a year seemed good enough for those bikes. My Suzuki DR200 has been done once in the 4 years or so I've owned that one, but it gets ridden very little. It's my "other bike"......... But with the kinda "special" swingarm pivot bolt they give you with the Sammy Miller footpeg relocating kit (wider/longer length than the stock pivot bolt, due to the thicknesses of the new foopeg brackets), I believe I'm gonna need to do this greasing job a bit more frequently. I don't wanna take a chance on that "special" pivot bolt getting stuck like the stock one did.........

You're fortunate to own a lathe, Lemur. I wish I had one. Ran one for Boeing for 20+ years before retiring. I would probably do something like you did as well if I had a lathe. Would try to add spiral lube grooves to the i.d. as we did frequently for bushings I made, to allow grease to flow in....... How often do you take stuff apart to slather some grease in there? I hope that you don't have the problems getting stuff apart like I did on mine. No telling how long mine went without any sort of regular disassembly, cleaning, and re-greasing....... Here's a picture of my recently removed swingarm pivot bushing that shows the cross drilling. Are all TY250's inner bushing cross drilled like mine is?

YAAAYYYY!!!! Success!!!!!!! A combination of soaking the inside of the pivot area overnight with WD-40, my goofy all-thread "press", and Feetupfun's suggestion of some heat got things movin' outta there! Thanks so much for your help, Feetupfun! I'm grateful! Truth be told, your posts and comments in other threads have been a help to me even when ya didn't know it. Again, Thanks!!! Now, has anyone here ever used Speed and Sports' bushing kit for a TY250? I ask because it comes with the tube the swingarm bolt goes through (the tube I just had a tough time getting out........ ), as well as the bushings and seals. But in the picture they show, it doesn't appear to be cross drilled for grease to get through like the OEM tube. Can't see how grease from the fitting is supposed to get to the pivot bolt....... Maybe I'll call them tomorrow and see what they say......... I know I could cross drill it myself, or possibly re use my tube, or........

Well, Big Lumpy Poopy Pants! It's lookin' like your idea to heat up stuff might be how it gets done, feetupfun........ My efforts with my all thread puller didn't work out at all. Can't get that inner steel tube to even budge a tiny amount. It's the first time I can recall stripping nuts and all threaded rod without being able to get something to move. I have the swingarm lightly clamped in a vise while soaking in penetrating oil for now, hoping that enough liquid can get through all those holes that grease is supposed to travel through to do some good for me. Judging by how tight this long steel bushing is in the plastic bushings, and how tight those plastic bushings are pressed in the swingarm, I'm beginning to wonder if I should've not even bothered to remove them. It also makes me curious about how reassembly will go as well........ Any tips, words of encouragement, and facts pointing out what a Goober I am are welcomed! Jimmie

Okay, I guess I "panic-posted", THEN decided to think........ I recall having done something similar with a length of all-thread rod, some washers, some nuts, a sleeve or two, and used all this stuff similar to how a wrist pin puller/pusher works (gudgeon pin????). Will let ya know how it works out tomorrow. Thanks, Jimmie

Hi, All! Working on making my recently purchased 1974 TY250 rideable. I'm doing repairs from probably decades of neglect, abuse, and a bit of "Hillbilly Engineering" from the previous owner(s). At the same time, I'm making a few minor "upgrades"; like the Sammy Miller wide footpegs that lower and move the pegs slightly rearwards. This requires removal of the swingarm bolt. While that bolt is out, I thought I'd look into replacing the grease nipple and the pivot bushings. I got the swingarm bolt out after somewhat of an epic battle. Now I'd like to get the long inner bushing out; the one sorta shaped like a long dog bone that goes completely through the swing arm pivot and the plastic bushings. After that, I'd like to replace the plastic bushings, seals, and such. But that long steel bushing I tried to describe above is really, REALLY stuck in there. I don't want to bugger it up as I need to reuse it. How is the best way to rmove this, without doing any harm? If I had a lathe, I'd turn some barstock with a step in it to use as a driver, and maybe try pounding/pushing it out that way??? Any tips from those that have done this before? Thanks, Jimmie

Good idea on the cutting board for the base, Dave! 👍 I made a skid plate for my Pukey Suzuki DR200 from similar material (UHMW, I think it’s called. 3/16” thick). I formed it with the heat gun. Should hold the staples well. Understand about getting “sidetracked” with other stuff. I have to split my diesel tractor in half to replace a leaky rear main seal. I think I’d rather work on an old Beemer…….. 🤔

SlowDave, I recently bought '74 TY250 which probably has a top candidate for "Ugliest Seat In The World" type of seat. Has a home made seat base of plywood on the flat portion, and some sorta plastic for the part that molds/curves over the rear fender/seat pan hump at the back of the seat. I'm kinda fortunate in that my bike's yellow fiberglass seat pan is actually in decent shape, but with some very funky mounts from the seat pan to the upper/inner rear shock mount. These will reqire some mild "engineering" and fab work, as decent used parts are tough to come by, as you know. I have had no luck finding very many parts here locally in the NW part of Oregon. One Vintage parts dealer in Portland tells me the fiberglass pan and the seat are among the first thing he sells when he gets a TY in........ I don't know how YOU plan to use a rear seat on YOUR bike, regarding whether you mostly stand while riding, or plan on sitting a lot while, say, trail riding. That would probably determine just how good of a seat you'll need. Mine will be a minimalist type of seat, since 1), I mostly stand while riding anyway, and 2), my last modern trials bike had no seat, so that's what I'm used to......... I've decided to make my own seat base from sheet thermoplastic. I'm still in the "Research Phase" of this, but it seems "doable". I watched a youtube video of a guy that did this for a road bike, which was helpful. Our seats have what is a fairly simple base. Mostly flat, with an angled portion that molds over part of the seat pan. Heat a sheet of thermoplastic cut just slightly larger than what is needed in an oven at 325-350 degrees, and place it on the fiberglass pan to form to the seat's base. Wear gloves for this. If any parts of the thermoplastic cool too quickly to form correctly, a heat gun will give enough heat to form as needed. It will need to be trimmed a bit after it's formed and cooled. A bandsaw will be helpful for that, but a handheld jigsaw will work also. This stuff can be heated, formed and cooled, and reheated several times. A fairly understanding wife may be necessary to heat plastic in the oven, so the heat gun might be the best way to do the whole enchilada. I've heated and formed a part for the airbox on my pukey little '92 Suzuki DR200 (needed this after a carb swap), and made several holsters for my handguns with this stuff. This plastic can be cut, drilled, sanded, and etc.. It's not too hard to work with. I've found seat material/fabric at Guts Racing and Parts Unlimited (some fabric called "Texhide", which I know nothing about, but is cheaper than what's available at Guts Racing...... ) for the cover itself. I still need to find some suitable foam. Assembly will, hopefully, consist of stretching the seat fabric over the foam, folding it under the base, and stapling it similar to how other dirt bike's seats get re-covered. Anyway, that's my plan for my bike's seat, for now. I should have some time to start on it in a few weeks, and hopefully will be able to report on any progress I may have made on the deal, if anyone is interested. Wish we didn't have to jump through these kinda hoops for parts for our bikes, but that's part of the charm, I'm told....... Hope this might help some, or at least give some ideas and options! Jimmie Added in EDIT: A link to the video of making a seat base I mentioned above:

Heather, are the turns you're doing pretty much on muddy soil, or in rocks, or somewhat of a mix? Jimmie

I find that offering them a handsome cash reward for a "clean" on their section helps break the ice...... Until they realize what a cheap schmoo I actually am..... Jimmie

Agree with Dick & Bashplate. I wear progressive, or lineless bifocals for work (safety lenses) & my "fashion" (street) glasses. Personally, I think the progressives kinda suck for most everything, especially my "narrow" street glasses. I liked my old fashioned bifocals better, for everyday use, driving, & etc.. But the light (titanium framed) pair I have for riding is a prescription for focusing farther away the end of my arms, out to infinity. This works out much better for riding. When I do wear my progressive/lineless bifocals while riding, there will always be some point where my head is tipped wrong, and I'll have to try and focus through blurry bifocals at something 15 ft. away...... Jimmie Added in EDIT: Do you guys with contact lenses ever have any problems with dust? Not that often we get to ride in dust here in western OR (kinda like Britain, from what I understand), but we do have 2 months of summer some years..... Also, do contact lenses work for folks with astigmatism & nearsighted probs?

I do indeed like the chest mount view you have as a viewer watching your videos, The Addict & MIchaelT! Nice!!! Another view I personally like from when I rode mx was with my old GoPro on a flat plastic mount that I zip-tied to the lower chin bar part of my full face helmet. That gives a nice "Rider's Eye View" as well. You won't see quite as much of the rider's "inputs" (hands, forearms, & etc.) as with the chest mount, however. Nice skill, and a nice riding area! Didn't take me long to figure out why it's called the "Dishes"....... Jimmie Glenn (axulsuv), GoPros are heaps & heaps of fun! I have what I think is the least expensive version they ever offered, the old model 960. It was given to me as a gift from my wife a long while ago. Video aside, they take some very, very cool still shots as well. The "fisheye/wide angle" lens deal adds a really cool effect to certain shots. Go somewhere with tall trees, or tall buildings, point the camera straight up, and it gives a really neat perspective. I did this while in the canyon at Zion National Park; really neat pics from that little camera while pointing up in that very narrow canyon! I stood on a sidewalk in downtown Portland one day and took a neat photo of one of the streetcar/train cars (MAX_Metropolitan Area eXpress....) from about 10 feet away. The camera made it appear to bend around me like a horseshoe. They're a hoot!

Heather, One thing that I learned, but still struggle to do, is this: Pick your spot where you want to stop & balance well ahead of where you are as you are slowing down. Begin slowing VERY GRADUALLY. The transition from moving to stopping is tough for us folks learning this sport; it's a little easier if you slow very gradually, then stop with as little front end dive as possible. Stopping quickly seems to make the transition much less "fluid". And the advice from 0007 to simply ride slowly is very good advice....... Now, if only I can take this advice, and simply learn to "Ride Slowly!!" to begin with. I pretty much "motocrossed" my sections at today's trial, and my crummy scores reflected that. Learning to ride slowly, or while not moving, is tougher than I'd figured it would be...... Jimmie

Okay, I can deal with the hula skirt...... But please, no coconuts! Damn, he can ride really good!!!! Jimmie

Will it be in Sandy, Oregon this year?????

Man, that looks like a GREAT place to ride, Brian! I envy ya...... Jimmie

Was the slo-mo a function of the GoPro, or your editing software? I have an old GoPro model 960, and wouldn't have a clue what setting to use for slow motion..... Jimmie

It (being overweight) ain't workin' out too well for me personally...... I have dropped about 20-25 lbs., and still need/want to lose another 10-15 lbs.. Riding seems easier not carting around the extra tonnage. It's easier to move around on the bike...... Jimmie

I really like this video, devo8! Good job on both the riding in it, and the editing/slo mo effect. Jimmie

This is a good thread & discussion! Man, Lineaway, that guy (Albert Cabestany?) in the video you linked to got some MAJOR lift of the rear wheel in that Zap. I also liked how you could see his clutch hand working when he double blpped the second & third efforts shown in the vid. You could also observe how his rear wheel seemed to stay more "hooked up" to that rock with his second double blip than it did with his first attempt. My efforts usually have the back wheel slamming into the wall or rock face too hard, rebounding back instead of hooking up or going up, and then the aforementioned nut crushage....... I still have a the most horrible time slipping & dumping the clutch at the correct time & amount for either of these techniques. Anyone know any good practice drills to learn this clutch slip/dump deal? Jimmie

Ahhh, the thread is somewhat aged, and the rider even more so, hee hee.... Which stump are you talking about, tahoebrian5? I have a "plethora" of stumps on my little 2+ acre chunk 'o' dirt....... I have some that I can clear, and more than a few I can't get over....... Jimmie

My 2010 280 Pro has proven to be a real pile of junk. It has needed the grips replaced, TWICE, and is always needing the fuel in the tank replenished. The chain constantly needs oiling, and the air filter seems to frequently need attention. I always have to check the air in the tires, it seems. The stupid thing always starts easily & runs well. Because of that, I've ran out of good excuses for not finishing better in the Intermediate class at my local trial comps. This bike is really beginning to p*** me off....... I only wish it were heavier & therefore more reliable..... I absolutely hate being able to buy parts for a bike when they need them, also..... Shoulda bought a Scorpa 4-stroke....... Jimmie

Duh..... I feel like "The Dork of the Month" now..... I see the little "S" dealie below the "Font" box..... Thanks, Lineaway! You've bailed me out yet another time here! Back on topic, I guess I over thought my setup. I have a little funnel, stolen from my camping equipment (used to fill up my gas lantern & cook stove with it). I have a short piece of fuel line on the pointy end of the funnel, and then a section of bendable 5/16" brake line stuffed in the other end of the fuel line. The end of this brake line fits in the small hole where the oil goes in. The funnel has a little tang on it with a hole in that tang. I run a piece of wire through the funnel's tang, and then hook the other end of that wire to my exhaust guard. This all stays in place very well as I still overfill the goofy thing anyways...... Jimmie