mr neutron

Hi, All! Working on making my recently purchased 1974 TY250 rideable. I'm doing repairs from probably decades of neglect, abuse, and a bit of "Hillbilly Engineering" from the previous owner(s). At the same time, I'm making a few minor "upgrades"; like the Sammy Miller wide footpegs that lower and move the pegs slightly rearwards. This requires removal of the swingarm bolt. While that bolt is out, I thought I'd look into replacing the grease nipple and the pivot bushings. I got the swingarm bolt out after somewhat of an epic battle. Now I'd like to get the long inner bushing out; the one sorta shaped like a long dog bone that goes completely through the swing arm pivot and the plastic bushings. After that, I'd like to replace the plastic bushings, seals, and such. But that long steel bushing I tried to describe above is really, REALLY stuck in there. I don't want to bugger it up as I need to reuse it. How is the best way to rmove this, without doing any harm? If I had a lathe, I'd turn some barstock with a step in it to use as a driver, and maybe try pounding/pushing it out that way??? Any tips from those that have done this before? Thanks, Jimmie

Good idea on the cutting board for the base, Dave! 👍 I made a skid plate for my Pukey Suzuki DR200 from similar material (UHMW, I think it’s called. 3/16” thick). I formed it with the heat gun. Should hold the staples well. Understand about getting “sidetracked” with other stuff. I have to split my diesel tractor in half to replace a leaky rear main seal. I think I’d rather work on an old Beemer…….. 🤔

SlowDave, I recently bought '74 TY250 which probably has a top candidate for "Ugliest Seat In The World" type of seat. Has a home made seat base of plywood on the flat portion, and some sorta plastic for the part that molds/curves over the rear fender/seat pan hump at the back of the seat. I'm kinda fortunate in that my bike's yellow fiberglass seat pan is actually in decent shape, but with some very funky mounts from the seat pan to the upper/inner rear shock mount. These will reqire some mild "engineering" and fab work, as decent used parts are tough to come by, as you know. I have had no luck finding very many parts here locally in the NW part of Oregon. One Vintage parts dealer in Portland tells me the fiberglass pan and the seat are among the first thing he sells when he gets a TY in........ I don't know how YOU plan to use a rear seat on YOUR bike, regarding whether you mostly stand while riding, or plan on sitting a lot while, say, trail riding. That would probably determine just how good of a seat you'll need. Mine will be a minimalist type of seat, since 1), I mostly stand while riding anyway, and 2), my last modern trials bike had no seat, so that's what I'm used to......... I've decided to make my own seat base from sheet thermoplastic. I'm still in the "Research Phase" of this, but it seems "doable". I watched a youtube video of a guy that did this for a road bike, which was helpful. Our seats have what is a fairly simple base. Mostly flat, with an angled portion that molds over part of the seat pan. Heat a sheet of thermoplastic cut just slightly larger than what is needed in an oven at 325-350 degrees, and place it on the fiberglass pan to form to the seat's base. Wear gloves for this. If any parts of the thermoplastic cool too quickly to form correctly, a heat gun will give enough heat to form as needed. It will need to be trimmed a bit after it's formed and cooled. A bandsaw will be helpful for that, but a handheld jigsaw will work also. This stuff can be heated, formed and cooled, and reheated several times. A fairly understanding wife may be necessary to heat plastic in the oven, so the heat gun might be the best way to do the whole enchilada. I've heated and formed a part for the airbox on my pukey little '92 Suzuki DR200 (needed this after a carb swap), and made several holsters for my handguns with this stuff. This plastic can be cut, drilled, sanded, and etc.. It's not too hard to work with. I've found seat material/fabric at Guts Racing and Parts Unlimited (some fabric called "Texhide", which I know nothing about, but is cheaper than what's available at Guts Racing...... ) for the cover itself. I still need to find some suitable foam. Assembly will, hopefully, consist of stretching the seat fabric over the foam, folding it under the base, and stapling it similar to how other dirt bike's seats get re-covered. Anyway, that's my plan for my bike's seat, for now. I should have some time to start on it in a few weeks, and hopefully will be able to report on any progress I may have made on the deal, if anyone is interested. Wish we didn't have to jump through these kinda hoops for parts for our bikes, but that's part of the charm, I'm told....... Hope this might help some, or at least give some ideas and options! Jimmie Added in EDIT: A link to the video of making a seat base I mentioned above:

Heather, are the turns you're doing pretty much on muddy soil, or in rocks, or somewhat of a mix? Jimmie

I find that offering them a handsome cash reward for a "clean" on their section helps break the ice...... Until they realize what a cheap schmoo I actually am..... Jimmie

Agree with Dick & Bashplate. I wear progressive, or lineless bifocals for work (safety lenses) & my "fashion" (street) glasses. Personally, I think the progressives kinda suck for most everything, especially my "narrow" street glasses. I liked my old fashioned bifocals better, for everyday use, driving, & etc.. But the light (titanium framed) pair I have for riding is a prescription for focusing farther away the end of my arms, out to infinity. This works out much better for riding. When I do wear my progressive/lineless bifocals while riding, there will always be some point where my head is tipped wrong, and I'll have to try and focus through blurry bifocals at something 15 ft. away...... Jimmie Added in EDIT: Do you guys with contact lenses ever have any problems with dust? Not that often we get to ride in dust here in western OR (kinda like Britain, from what I understand), but we do have 2 months of summer some years..... Also, do contact lenses work for folks with astigmatism & nearsighted probs?

I do indeed like the chest mount view you have as a viewer watching your videos, The Addict & MIchaelT! Nice!!! Another view I personally like from when I rode mx was with my old GoPro on a flat plastic mount that I zip-tied to the lower chin bar part of my full face helmet. That gives a nice "Rider's Eye View" as well. You won't see quite as much of the rider's "inputs" (hands, forearms, & etc.) as with the chest mount, however. Nice skill, and a nice riding area! Didn't take me long to figure out why it's called the "Dishes"....... Jimmie Glenn (axulsuv), GoPros are heaps & heaps of fun! I have what I think is the least expensive version they ever offered, the old model 960. It was given to me as a gift from my wife a long while ago. Video aside, they take some very, very cool still shots as well. The "fisheye/wide angle" lens deal adds a really cool effect to certain shots. Go somewhere with tall trees, or tall buildings, point the camera straight up, and it gives a really neat perspective. I did this while in the canyon at Zion National Park; really neat pics from that little camera while pointing up in that very narrow canyon! I stood on a sidewalk in downtown Portland one day and took a neat photo of one of the streetcar/train cars (MAX_Metropolitan Area eXpress....) from about 10 feet away. The camera made it appear to bend around me like a horseshoe. They're a hoot!

Heather, One thing that I learned, but still struggle to do, is this: Pick your spot where you want to stop & balance well ahead of where you are as you are slowing down. Begin slowing VERY GRADUALLY. The transition from moving to stopping is tough for us folks learning this sport; it's a little easier if you slow very gradually, then stop with as little front end dive as possible. Stopping quickly seems to make the transition much less "fluid". And the advice from 0007 to simply ride slowly is very good advice....... Now, if only I can take this advice, and simply learn to "Ride Slowly!!" to begin with. I pretty much "motocrossed" my sections at today's trial, and my crummy scores reflected that. Learning to ride slowly, or while not moving, is tougher than I'd figured it would be...... Jimmie

Okay, I can deal with the hula skirt...... But please, no coconuts! Damn, he can ride really good!!!! Jimmie

Will it be in Sandy, Oregon this year?????

Man, that looks like a GREAT place to ride, Brian! I envy ya...... Jimmie

Was the slo-mo a function of the GoPro, or your editing software? I have an old GoPro model 960, and wouldn't have a clue what setting to use for slow motion..... Jimmie

It (being overweight) ain't workin' out too well for me personally...... I have dropped about 20-25 lbs., and still need/want to lose another 10-15 lbs.. Riding seems easier not carting around the extra tonnage. It's easier to move around on the bike...... Jimmie

I really like this video, devo8! Good job on both the riding in it, and the editing/slo mo effect. Jimmie

This is a good thread & discussion! Man, Lineaway, that guy (Albert Cabestany?) in the video you linked to got some MAJOR lift of the rear wheel in that Zap. I also liked how you could see his clutch hand working when he double blpped the second & third efforts shown in the vid. You could also observe how his rear wheel seemed to stay more "hooked up" to that rock with his second double blip than it did with his first attempt. My efforts usually have the back wheel slamming into the wall or rock face too hard, rebounding back instead of hooking up or going up, and then the aforementioned nut crushage....... I still have a the most horrible time slipping & dumping the clutch at the correct time & amount for either of these techniques. Anyone know any good practice drills to learn this clutch slip/dump deal? Jimmie

Ahhh, the thread is somewhat aged, and the rider even more so, hee hee.... Which stump are you talking about, tahoebrian5? I have a "plethora" of stumps on my little 2+ acre chunk 'o' dirt....... I have some that I can clear, and more than a few I can't get over....... Jimmie

My 2010 280 Pro has proven to be a real pile of junk. It has needed the grips replaced, TWICE, and is always needing the fuel in the tank replenished. The chain constantly needs oiling, and the air filter seems to frequently need attention. I always have to check the air in the tires, it seems. The stupid thing always starts easily & runs well. Because of that, I've ran out of good excuses for not finishing better in the Intermediate class at my local trial comps. This bike is really beginning to p*** me off....... I only wish it were heavier & therefore more reliable..... I absolutely hate being able to buy parts for a bike when they need them, also..... Shoulda bought a Scorpa 4-stroke....... Jimmie

Duh..... I feel like "The Dork of the Month" now..... I see the little "S" dealie below the "Font" box..... Thanks, Lineaway! You've bailed me out yet another time here! Back on topic, I guess I over thought my setup. I have a little funnel, stolen from my camping equipment (used to fill up my gas lantern & cook stove with it). I have a short piece of fuel line on the pointy end of the funnel, and then a section of bendable 5/16" brake line stuffed in the other end of the fuel line. The end of this brake line fits in the small hole where the oil goes in. The funnel has a little tang on it with a hole in that tang. I run a piece of wire through the funnel's tang, and then hook the other end of that wire to my exhaust guard. This all stays in place very well as I still overfill the goofy thing anyways...... Jimmie

Just don't confuse your atf with your ketchup, Craig...... How did you get the "strike through" in your text above here??? Jimmie

In case it might help the original poster, or someone else, The video needed for help installing the kickstarter & spring is the one called "Engine Repair Part Three, GASGAS "Pro" (Trials)". It's primarily an assembly video, with the first two mostly dealing with disassembly. The part relevant to the kickstarter asssembly is at the 2:00 minute point. I'll try to leave a link below here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A80n7zq80n8 Hope this helps! Jimmie

I had my own k/s spring looking "ugly", kinda like the one in the picture. They can be bent back into shape, so it's not totally necessary to buy a new one. But having them in as near "stock" shape as you can get them definitely makes them easier to install. Nearly impossible when they're bent outta shape like that one is, and mine was. Jimmie

I believe I may have seen some of his (David Attenborough's) work awhile back. Was that you doing the voice? Jimmie

Now THAT had my son & I both laughing our open-faced helmet asses off!!!! That was truly funny, Sherconoob! Jimmie

Paul Arnoux, and Dadof2, Thank You for posting those links! I hope many people will sit down and do some reading of those, particularly the Dellorto manuals Arnoux linked to above. I've got them bookmarked, and as soon as our ink supply gets better for our printer, will likely make myself paper copies. I've been riding, racing, and wrenching since 1970, and consider myself to have had a fairly good grasp of how motorcycle carburetors work. Have always had good luck jetting my own Mikunis & Keihins for my 2 & 4 stroke dirt bikes. But I still believe in having as much info as I can get on a subject, especially if/when a problem develops. These links should help a lot of people, myself included. Thank You guys! Jimmie

Good Work, Ben! I enjoyed watching that (and happen to share a like for the same music you used!)! To me, it's really cool to see how people in other areas of the world do their events. It's also cool that you guys have Observers at the sections. A lot of ours don't have Observers; the riders do a "Group Check" deal where we observe/score each other. Sometimes we have a tough time getting enough people out for the Observing jobs, as well as more riders...... It looked like a fun ride, and in a really neat area. Glad to hear you got some cleans! That's always a huge confidence builder, and confirms that "Hey! I must be doing something right!" Keep up the good work, Sir! Jimmie