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About fivebrick

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    Sherco 290

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  1. The goal is to compress the front suspension into the object which compresses the suspension, makes sense to me. My question is this: Do we ram the front wheel into the object directly or should we "drop it" into the object? Straight line directly in? Or do we wheelie high and upon descent place it there?
  2. Both are probably great. The Gaernes are slipper comfy and have great peg feel. Let us know what you end up with.
  3. In which year (first year for me) of your riding did you start to get frightened of the obstacles (if any)? Anyone have tips on how you conquered obstacles that you thought were out of reach? Just more practice? Use of spotters? Mental strategies/tricks? Did you just decide to stay at that level and move up no further? I am getting to the point where stuff is getting bigger and a little scary. My desire is not to be the big obstacle rider, my wish is to progress to the higher levels and with that comes necessarily riding bigger stuff. Cheers all.
  4. Forgot to mention, maybe try a higher gear. That can help.
  5. Pressures seem right to me, some like 5 in the front. Are you positioning yourself back on the bike? The best guys I have seen ride mud well were sure to be back on the bike.
  6. I would go for as little slack as is reasonably possible.
  7. "The people were all friendly and full of helpful advice and encouragement." - One of my favorite things about trials. Enjoy it Pop.
  8. Once in awhile go ahead and splurge. So what if you don't "need" the Repsol, very few do. I think both bikes are awesome, but spend the extra quid and get the big daddy. This way you'll never wonder if you should have went for it.
  9. Nice Ralph. I was going to recommend riding a good bit before the trial. Don't exhaust yourself- not even close, but get riding a little and get a sweat going. A good warm up. My goal is to enter the first section warmed up, bike and body. Lots of riders arrive dead cold at the first section and they don't become themselves until the second loop. My advice is get warm and ride around to get warm before you get in there.
  10. Get it. Great bike and if you can snag it for 6250 or so even better.
  11. Hopefully that helped Nick, but let me throw this in. There's a lot going on when you rear wheel hop- a lot! And that's just on flat ground. My advice would be to make sure you've got the wheelie down pat, then the stop and go wheelie. Next add the hops. It takes mucho synchrozination of the wheelie and the hop as well as the rear brake and clutch timing-you just have to practice. It has taken me forever to string just 4-6 hops like this together and a ton of practice to even get that. Get way back there when you are up on the back wheel-more than you think. Like Finn posted you have to be back past vertical for this to work. One mental trick that helped me was to picture that it's a throw and a catch. You "throw" the bike up with the throttle and a jump. You "catch" the bike with the clutch in and rear brake on. Throw the bike up, catch it, throw it up, catch it. Throttle to ascend, brake on the landing. You will get it man keep practicing.
  12. I have big calves- Gaerne Boots work well, lotsa room
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