mr neutron

Thanks, Zippy!! I actually llike reading your posts better! They're usually much funnier! I have to replace an o-ring in that pesky rebound cartridge. It's probably sealing well enough, but the burrs inside cartriddge did chew up the o-ring somewhat during removal. The next time I have the forks apart, I'd like to get Mrs. Neutron to take some pics of all the parts I tried to describe above. She's a way better photographer, with a way better camera. I tried taking some pics with my primitive digital point-and-shoot, and the pics kinda sucked like a bucket of ticks..... Anyway, photos would probably make more sense than my verbal descriptions. Hope y'all had a Great Thanksgiving! I'm pretty sure my bike needs new. stiffer springs after eating like an idiot yesterday! Jimmie

Is that a Sooners t-shirt you're wearing? Jimmie

Hey, All!!! Thought I'd try to do a quick update on the status of my fork oil change odyssey. I tend to be wordy, & I apologize for that, but I'll attempt to be concise here..... First of all, I've discovered I have a recessive Stupidity Gene that seems to kick in everytime I attempt to pull any maintenance (or ride) on this bike. I did indeed misread & misunderstand Michael Martin's post, as well as others in that thread I linked to above. Sorry to all for my confusion. His post pretty well nailed it, and further reading of other posts in that thread helped a lot...... The compression side went well, other than the forks not exactly coming apart like the video showed, and like other conventional forks I've taken apart in recent history. Getting the rebound cartridge apart was a little more difficult on my bike. I think I bought a rebound cartridge that was possibly built on a Monday morning, or something.... Is Marzocchi's quality sometimes sorta "questionable"? (I work as a machinst making aviation parts, and we work hard not to let parts out of our areas like I saw inside this cartridge....) There were numerous gall marks at the bottom of the cartridge, where the circlip and lower aluminum plug go. Then, there was a half round gouge or ridge up inside the tube about 4 inches or so from the bottom. These things combined to make it very hard to get the 2 aluminum "plugs" (spring in between these) out that seal the lower end of the unit, which again had me baffled. I took the cartridge to work and ran a hone through the inside a few quick strokes, and that smoothed that out a bunch. I deburred the 4 holes near the bottom; they had some nasty burrs leftover from drilling that cut into the o-rings. The damper rod itself had a couple of dents or dings in it; I hit those with 600 grit sandpaper. Anyway, it all went back together well, and seemed to have bled well. I did manage to "fix" my stuck & broken rebound adjuster. It actually seems to make a noticeable difference during use..... I've got a couple of short rides on it now, have made a few adjustments, and so far, it seems to be working well. No leaks to report, also. (That SuperGlue fix worked well, Jon! ) Jon, Lineaway, or anyone that knows a bit about these forks: That second aluminum plug/piston/whatever it's called, that has the o-ring around it and the plastic hydraulic-type seal around it. NOT the one the allen head bolt/copper washer threads into from the bottom of the forks, but the one that does most of the "sealing" of the cartridge...... It has a screw through the center of it. I didn't mess with that, but is it possibly a screw for bleeding the cartridge? Anyway, Thanks, and very much, Jon & Lineaway, for your help! And Michael Martin, if you ever read this, Thank You also! So much for a short post, huh? Jimmie

Thanks again, Jon! Okay, well, it's good to know that things are fairly "typical" then; that's a relief for me. I do indeed have an electric heat gun I used when I planned on separating the two halves of my fork. That thng comes in really handy, for a variety of things. Before it cooled off a little here, I put some old suspension fluid I had in the barn in that compression side fork. Everything seemed to work fine while bench checking it. The adjuster made a noticeable difference, motion seemed nice & "restricted" when compressing, & etc.. Thanks for all your help, Jon & Lineaway! Hopefully, will get the other side done in the next day or so. I have to patch up some minor rock dings in the upper legs first, though. Is that typically done with nail polish & 600 grit sandpaper? After I think about it, really, the only way to do a decent job of an oil change IS to disassemble the forks like this, in order to flush out the old fluid with solvent. And the oil in my forks was somewhat more like a chocolate milk shake than suspension fluid, hee hee..... Oh, yeah. I was wrong about the diagram in my User Manual (page 30, 2010 TXT-PRO). It DOES NOT show the damper rod extended, like I said above. My mistake there. Sorry about that. Again, thanks for your help! Jimmie

Jon, Thank you for replying, and for the pics of the tools you came up with! That's a really great idea for the bleed tool you came up with..... It would work out much better than my piece of copper wire that I use to pull the rod up....... Now, for the inevitable questions: Is it "normal" that my seal and the bushing for the lower tube stayed inside their counterbore in that lower tube? They didn't come out with the upper tube, as the video showed for the '07 & earlier forks. My upper tube simply pulled right out with only it's bushing; no "slide hammer" action needed to get the forks apart like was necessary on other forks I've worked on. Kinda like the old damper rod forks, ya know? Theoretically then, all that holds the upper & lower legs together would be the cartridge, essentially, by the allen bolt on the bottom by the axle, and the upper cartridge rod that screws into the fork cap? Added in EDIT: I can pull my upper tube out of the lower one with the seal, washer, clip. & even the dust seal intact. I read about this seal & bushing staying in the lower fork leg in another post/thread as well, so this isn't the only time this has come up. It doesn't seem right....... The compression-side cartridge is full of holes along its side, like most others I've seen are. This has also been another source of confusion for me, when combined with this post in that thread I linked to in my original post: Michael Martin, from 6/9/11: Remove cartridge from fork, disassemble cartridge, fill with fork fluid, reassemble cartridge, then put cartridge back in fork tube, then with fork and damping rod completely depressed set oil level 160mm from top of fork tube. Cycle damping rod to make sure no air is in cartridge and check oil level again. Pull up damping rod and insert spring and preload spacer, screw on fork cap. I must not be understanding his intent. This would seem impossible to do, as fluid would leak out everywhere...... What worked best for me, in an "experiment" was to bolt the cartridge into the lower fork leg from the bottom (by the allen bolt/copper washer). Then, I filled the fork leg up with oil, and pumped/cycled the cartridge damper/"hydraulic" rod up & down a couple of inches, until the action smoothed out. Then, I slid the upper leg into the lower, and cycled both that upper leg & the cartridge/damper rod up & down separately & together. From there, a person would fill the thing up to the 160mm level, reassemble, and etc...... Is this "sound" logic? How do most of y'all do this? Is it necessary to pull the forks apart like this everytime you simply want to change oil? Also, my owners manual shows my 160mm oil level dimension, with the fork tube compressed, and the damper rod "out". It also mentions to "Measure without the pier and the hydraulic rod extended", What's a "pier"?? The spring??? Jimmie

Thank you, Lineaway!!! That helps a bunch! I hope New Mexico never runs out of rocks or places for you to ride! I do have one question though.... "Did I read Step #3" of what???? Jimmie

Hey, All!!! I've got a 2010 280 Pro TxT with the 40mm aluminum Marzocchi forks I'm working on. Wasn't too sure the videos at Gas Gas USA were "relevant" for these forks, so that's why I'm posting here...... I started out doing (what I thought was...) a simple oil change of the forks. I took the fork legs out, after loosening the caps. Removed the caps, springs, & spacers, and then turned each fork leg upside down in an oil drain pan, and let them sit that way over night. The oil looked thick & yuckky. Not much yuccky oil came out, but so far so good? Next day, I thought while these forks were this far apart, I'd see If I could get my previously stuck rebound adjuster to turn. I managed to, and actually unscrewed it out. I turned that Rebound side fork leg upside down over the drain pan, pumped it & the cartridge a few times, and got oil to come out of the cartridge rod. I didn't do this to the Compression side, because the adjuster worked. Put oil in, set the level to 160mm, re-assembled the bike, and went for a test ride. I now have no rebound, and seemingly no compression either. The adjuster on the compression side turns, but it now has essentially no effect at all. The bike tops out harshly, and bottoms out much easier now than it used to. I've done some reading here, and in this thread, member Michael Martin states that the cartridge needs to be removed to filled after an oil change. http://www.trialscen...nge#entry272977 I'm willing to try this, but wondering "why?". How do these forks come apart? I'm betting most likely that I'll need to pull the dust seal and a circlip to remove the top leg from the bottom half, and pull the allen head bolt out of the bottom leg to remove the cartridge? Will the oil seal & bushing come out with the upper fork leg, like on other bikes I've worked on? I guess, in a nutshell, I'm asking how these forks come apart, and what to watch for on re-assembly...... It's funny, I've worked on, rebuilt, shimmed, and bled my old KTM WP 50mm Extreme forks & twin piston PDS shocks for myself & a friend, and did routine stuff on my '06 YZ450's forks & shock. But to have my butt kicked by these forks is kinda frustrating. One nice thing about the bikes/suspensions mentioned above is that there's a lot of info out there about those forks. Thanks for any help/advice/warnings you all may have! Jimmie

Thanks, Guys. Granted, when they work, they do a fine job, but I've still came up with a couple of reasons "not-to-like" the Marzocchi forks right now.... I have a broken rebound adjuster on these forks. It broke the very first time I tried to turn it, after having the bike for only a day or two. I'm told I need to buy the entire cartridge to fix this deal. Now, with the cartridge needing removed/filled/primed, it makes me leery of even putting a wrench on the goofy thing....... What brand of forks does your Monty have, out of curiosity? And they have the same sorta deal? Amazing.... Jimmie

In a load of "chalk"??? Hmmm. One of my favorite fishing writers, Roderick Haig-Brown, a Brit, used to write about fishing in "chalk streams"..... Never understood that either.... At any rate, I hope you can find traction & do well tomorrrow, Andrew! On my bike, I fixed a flat on the front wheel today, and greased my steering head bearings. Those tasks went really well. Then, in a fit of stupidity I suppose, I pushed my luck & tried changing the fork oil. I now have no damping whatsoever. Forks bottom out & top out easily, and behave as if there is no hydraulic restriction at all. Did some reading here, and determined I probably need to pull the cartridge & fill it. Sometimes I can't believe how I can take a simple thing I've done easily enough on other bikes, and totally screw it up..... Jimmie

What engine & fuel mileage, Copemech? Diesel? Jimmie

I thought Nigel meant he wanted to know where you looked good falling down, Jon....... sorry; couln't resist..... Jimmie

I like the low comp insert & flywheel weight on my 2010 280 Pro. The head made starting only slightly easier, but the two mods combined well to really smooth out & slow down throttle response. Plus, that head insert allowed my bike to run on non-ethanol pump premium; no more having to buy race gas! Guys, I think I'd get along with the slow throttle if I'd never have broken my right wrist. I have really limited flexibility in that wrist, and with the "slow throttles", can't get full throttle when it's needed. Which, if I'm honest, is very seldom at a Trial or while practicing..... Revving the bike to clear out the engine is probably the only time my bike sees full throttle..... Jimmie

Man, Dylan, You have Dedication! Sore elbow, a "Tough Crowd" of spectators when ya ride..... Kudos to ya. Buddy! Hey, are you able to lay out some sorta section in that area? That rocky slope looks great for practicing turns on, floater turn practice, stopping then wheelying over a rock, & etc........ JImmie

Well, it's either one of those, or a setup something like what the "Michelin Man" wears...... Craig, Thanks for the offer, Mah Man! I wouldn't mind seeing one in real life, if you happen to throw it in the truck..... But I kinda figured it's a bit much for Trials. I do like the idea of something like has been shown. Like Westygas270, I broke a collarbone & ribs, punctured a lung, and got a concussion from overjumping a double jump 8-10 yrs, ago. I'd probably feel better with something like we're all discussing here, albeit less bulky than what I showed. Everything helps, but in my case, I'm not sure there's anything out there to protect from "stupid", ya know???? BTW, Westygas270, were you riding an event when this happened, or were you out practicing? Jimmie

Do you have to worry about anything trying to eat you while you ride there Dylan? Jimmie

I always wanted one of these when I raced mx; don't know if they'd be too bulky for Trials or not: They're made for mountain bikers, by a company called "Rock Gardn". http://www.rockgardn.com/store.asp I'm hoping you're OK now, and ready to get back & ride, Westygas270? Jimmie

Agreed, and especially about Sergio's vdeo work! Jimmie

Soooo, yer sorta sayin' we can get more traction by consuming more beer? JImmie

Jeff, I use a small funnel that I think was made for Coleman stoves & lanterns, to put fuel (white gas) into their tanks, with the piece of hose mentioned above. The funnels are found at sporting goods stores in the backpacking/camping department, and hose at any hardware store..... There's some great suggestions here, fellas! Jimmie

Yes! Nicely edited! Thanks for putting this out! And it's very cool to see a person I know in there, as well!!! Jimmie Added in EDIT: I saw at the Vimeo website you wrote this vid was filmed with a DSLR. Very Cool! By any chance was it a Canon 7D???

Excellent Advice!!! Definitely be careful what you use to clean a jet with!!! When I was 16 or 17 yrs. old (in the middle/latter part of the last century, sorta), I cleaned the jets on a friend's XR75 with the first thing I could find at the time: my father's welding tip cleaner. Took us a while to figure out why we suddenly had a very rich running condition...... It was, however, a lesson I've never forgotten.... Jimmie

Out of curiosity, how long have some of y'all had the symptoms of Tennis Elbow (T/E)??? For those who have gotten over it, how long did it take? My own case of it has been bothering me since June or July, and it seems to be getting no better at all. Then again, I'm not being too good about icing it, taking anti-inflamms, & etc...... Jimmie

I have both of them (A Hebo flywheel weight, and the S3 low compression head insert) on my 2010 280 Pro. I like both of them a lot! I've got a broken right wrist (Nervicular Scaphoid bone) that never healed, and due to that, I have very limited flexibility of my right hand. A slow throttle won't really work for me, and after the fww & comp. lowering, don't feel it's needed. But the slow throttle is cheap & easy to do; I'd try it, were it not for my wrist deal...... Jimmie

Okay, thanks, I understand now! A good tip of the day for me might be to not get caught lookin' at those Brazillian women's parts you mentioned, hee hee..... Even if I claim "scientific research" on the tape deal, I'm certain Mrs. Neutron won't be too understanding about that.... Side note: to Bill: You think you or Barry will make the trial in OR City on the 10th? I'm hoping I can get a rear brake line in time to ride that one..... Jimmie

Man, you folks seriously crack me up!!! But I have to plead ignorance here (pretty easy thing to do for me.... shere's broccoli plants out there with higher IQs than I have.....)...... That's_a_five, what do you mean by "Brazillians"????? (I really don't smoke cigars, so have no real knowledge about them, if that's what was referred to.....) ( I also don't actually have a wife that is "domineering:" like I wrote about above, but it is fun to yak about.... She's actually a decent rider on her own CRF100.....) Jimmie