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  1. Forget the Chinese copies. They are not made with much precision and often prove difficult to tune. Take a look at an OKO carb. Full details at www.mid-atlantictrials.com.
  2. Buchanan's Spoke & Rim, Inc. 805 W. Eighth Street Azusa, California 91702 Tel: (626) 969-4655 http://www.buchananspokes.com/
  3. 2.75 x 21 is a WM1 rim, 4.00 x 18 is a WM2 rim. Rim locks are identified as for WM1, WM2, WM3,etc. rims.
  4. nh014

    carb for 348

    VM26 is probably a better size for the 348. However, take a look at an OKO carb, as shown on www.mid-atlantictrials.com. They are easier to adjust and are sold all set up for the 348.
  5. https://www.inmotiontrials.com/
  6. Barnesy is correct. The parts diagram is for a later 348 and the 349. To make the adjustment first remove the clutch. Spin both shafts so that all 5 gears can be selected with a minimum of further turning of the shafts. The shift detent plunger and spring must be in place. Set the eccentric in the middle of its range. Now shift down into 1st and release the shift lever. If you see that the shift drum moves (ever so slightly) as you release the lever, then you need to adjust the eccentric. The plan is to have each downward movement of the lever put the shift drum in exactly the correct position. The shift detent plunger should not "assist" in rotating the drum even slightly, after you let go of the shift lever. Now pull the lever up into second gear. Release the shift lever. Once again, you should not see any further movement of the shift drum after you release the lever. If you do, then you are moving the drum too little, or too much, and that is what the eccentric adjusts for. There are other variables in this issue by the way. If the shift pawls are worn or damaged from impact on the shift lever, then you will not get the expected movement of the shift drum. If internal shimming of the 3 transmission shafts allows too much end movement, then you will not be placing the shift fork where it needs to be to select gears properly. If internal shimming of the 3 shafts puts one or more shaft out of line with the others, then you will not get the positive gear selection you need.
  7. Their placement is correct. Size 40 jet at 9 o'clock and 20 at 6 o'clock.
  8. Take a look at www.bobistheoilguy.com/viscosity-charts. Notice that the low number winter viscosity oils [ 5W, and 10W] correspond closely to 75 wt gear lube and the SAE 30 engine oils correspond to an 85 wt gear oil. 75W-90 gear oil is about as close as you will get to 10W-30 engine oil. Why not use use 10W-30 as Montesa recommended.
  9. Sorry, but I have no idea why the hole is there. I've had the clutch cover off on both the Rev3 and Evo series bikes and neither has a hole where yours does.
  10. There should be no hole there. JB Weld or new inner clutch case. The choice is yours.
  11. Similar to what Jonboy883 has said, when cold, I kick it through slowly, two or three times, to kind of prime it. Then give it about 1/4 throttle, get it on compression with the kickstart, and then come down hard and swift. Usually takes two or three kicks like this and it's running. Fast and hard kicks are the secret. You can't baby it.
  12. nh014

    Montesa 349

    Recommended oils for the 349 are as follows: Gearbox - 300 cc -, SAE 90 Clutch - 300 cc - 10W-30 (I use Maxima MTL-XL 75W transmission oil for the clutches in both my modern and vintage bikes) Front forks - 210 cc per leg, 10W fork oil (any decent brand) Gas / oil - Montesa manuals recommended a 4% mixture, but with todays synthetic oils 50:1 is fine. I use Amsoil Interceptor at 60:1, again in both my modern and vintage bikes
  13. nh014

    Mont 348

    My 78 Cota 348, which has never been restored or repainted has the black and yellow tank stripes along the lower tank edge and one Made in Spain decal located half way between the filler cap and the top front edge of the tank. However, if you Google Montesa Cota 348 there are a few tank pictures that show additional decals. Might have been based on the market and the whims of the factory.
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