Correct. And unless you've got a stash of money it's a shame to get it dirty now it is like it is. I'll very likely buy a 79/80 Yellow Beamish to ride. I've not seen another 78 Red/Black one for sale in over 6 months of looking every day. I've seen dozens of Yellow ones. If the right person wants it, they're welcome.
I have been offered another bike which if I bought it would mean the Beamish has to go first. What sort of price do you think I can get for it?
Here's the spec-
1978 Beamish Suzuki 250. Rare Red/Black model.
New Paintwork/Lacquer to Fuel Tank
New Chain/Sprockets
New Levers
New Decals all round
New Michelin Tyres
Fully serviced with new plug, lead, plug cap and oils
Repaired kick start lever
New front fork gaiters (still to fit)
Previous owner did-
New seat cover
New Wheel Bearings
New WES alloy silencer
All stainless fasteners
Polished Forks, Yokes etc
New head bearings
New Swing arm bushes
New White Stihl Mudguards
New Betor rear shocks
To go with the bike-
One full engine gasket set
One top end gasket set
One new spark plug (NGK)
One kick start shaft oil seal (OEM)
Several Sets of rear sprocket tab washers (OEM)
There are no known defects with the bike, overall I'd say it is a 9/10 bike. The bike has not been ridden after this work and is spotless. Your opinions appreciated.
Thanks a lot. My Beamish is still in bits due to me working in Scotland all this year so far and having no time work on it, let alone wobble around a muddy field I'm in Cheshire, Northwich, so it isn't too far for an hour or twos mooching around. What time is the start please?
GG, you're more than welcome. I know very little about trials riding, but I do know a bit about lubrication.
Regarding when your favourite brand oil isn't available, just enjoy the ride and don't worry. You've far more to worry about trying to keep your feet up! That's what I do and it works OK for me.
GG, By mixing oils, I presume you are referring to the residual in your fuel tank before switching to another brand or type? Go ahead.
If you want to mix brands I can't really see why you would want to purposely do it, but providing you mix the same API spec oils I can't see a problem. Ofcourse you are asking for trouble purposely mixing a 2 stroke oil and a gear oil (say), but that'd be daft to do anyway and I cannot see why you'd want to.
A great many of the "synthetic" base oil stocks used in motor oils are not "actually" "true" synthetic oils at all. Many, (in fact I'll go out on a limb here and risk being shot down) most in fact, of the engine oils sold as "Synthetic Oil" are actually highly refined and treated mineral base oils. Nothing at all wrong in this ofcourse. But it does mean that oil based on the "hole in the ground Black stuff" gets grouped in the same manner as Poly Alpha Olefin, Silicone base or Poly Ethylene Glycol stock, which ARE true "Synthetics" (IE do not generally come out of a hole in the ground as black stuff!). These all get lumped together in the eyes of the marketing people as "Synthetics". And it is the marketing folk that decide what it is you read on the bottle that is on the shelf. The Engineers and the Chemists only get a look in where it says something like API SL 20w/50 or a proprietary standard like VW 505.01. Ofcourse, this isn't sexy like "Synthetic" so the marketing folk would rather you didn't read it up front.
My honest advice to you, is use what the maker recommends in the way of an industry specification API... (API SL 20W/50 etc) or a makers standard (eg VW505.01 etc), etc... And you'll be OK. For example, here is a brief guide to API standards for motor oils (Petrol and Diesel).
You may notice that the "S" word doesn't appear up front in the text. But I can buy API SJ mineral and API SJ synthetic oil in Halfords. Confused? I bet.
Regarding coking of your engine's combustion chamber, perhaps one additive package is a little better in one way than another, but not in others? Perhaps some trials you ride require more throttle than another? Perhaps some trials you ride a lot in one gear? Or wait around a lot ticking over? I don't know. If what you are doing works for you, that's great, but don't get hung up on brands or "synth" v "dino". I honestly hope that helps. But there are always more questions than answers on this subject.
Thank you Thomas. I do not know you, but you have my respect, believe me. As do all here.
It's only the internet FFS, I learn something new every day, sometimes on the web, sometimes from elsewhere. But the day you top learning is the day you stop breathing. For sure.
I really don't care what you think. A person asks advice and all he gets is unsubstantiated bullsh*t.
Fact- All base oil stock is sold on the spot market by oil majors. It is classified according to internationally agreed chemical and physical standards.
Fact- Additive packages are made by a small number of companies. These are well understood and none of them are "magic". They all use the same chamistry. Again, to internationally recognised standards.
Fact- Most oil except for some of the "big names" are blended from generic base stock bought on the spot market (with additive packages bought in) and packed by a small number of contract blenders. Europe's largest is FUCHS in Stoke on Trent. You'll likely know of them as Silkolene and Century Oils.
Fact- ALL engine oils are blended and packed to inernationally agreed ISO, JASC, API, SAE standards.
Fact- There's more bull on the internet about lube oils than just about anything else. Quite why, I'm not sure.
Fact- I've been a professional mechanical engineer for more than 30 years specialising in machinery failure modes and I have NEVER EVER seen a rolling bearing fail due to incorrect oil grade or problems from mixing oils.
Get over it, you've read stuff on the web and been told stuff by folk who know no different and you believe it.
I know better, it's my work and it is my full time business.
I hope what I say helps somebody out there, whether you are offended by somebody who knows the truth matters to me not one tiny little bit. Get over it.
Do not worry about all the "do not mix this and that" bull on the web. Nothing to worry about. Just change to the correct ratio of Synth to Fuel and you'll be just fine. Same going the other way Synth > Dino too. Don't worry about it. HTH.
You might wish to go here http://www.beamishownersclub.com and let Jim, who runs the site know. He can publicise it to UK Beamish owners registered with him. HTH.
Whilst I have some sympathy with you, I have to say that cash is king. If somebody turns up on the doorstep with the money, they take the bike. It's tough because you are obviously a genuine bloke. But we've all been messed about by jerks "definately having it" than never showing up. Sorry about it, but there's plenty more!
I need the money for another bike to ride. If it doesn't sell then I WILL be riding it! Thanks.
I'm in Cheshire, Northwich, so it isn't too far for an hour or twos mooching around. What time is the start please?
1978 Red/black Beamish Suzuki.
in Suzuki/Beamish
Posted
Bike has now sold. Onto my next project now and perhaps a Yellow Beamish if I see one I like. Cheers.